Dirty 30

iTrader: (96)

Looking for the torque specs and installation proceedure for an ARP crank pulley bolt for an LS1. Any help is appreciated. I searched and found that its a 27mm 12 point head.
thanks
Jesse

SS1875

iTrader: (34)

Using the factory GM bolt:

1. Use your old bolt to install the damper and torque to 240 ft/lbs, then remove it. This is to seat the damper completely.
2. Install your new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lbs.
3. This step is to get a reference on the front of the engine. With the torque wrench hanging at the spot where the 37 ft/lbs was achieved, reference 140° clockwise for another tightening cycle. Put a mark or a piece of tape where you need to tighten.
4. Then go another 140° from the 37 ft/lbs start point and you are now tight. (We also recommend Loctite here if you are doing any High Performance Driving with this engine.

For an aftermarket ARP Bolt use Red Loctite and tighten to 250 ft/lbs.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

In case you get confused by the post above, steps 1-4 are for the GM torque-to-yield bolt. The ARP just gets torqued down to 250-ish lb/ft (I think the actual spec I found from ARP was 247 lb/ft).

Dirty 30

iTrader: (96)

Thanks for the replies! The ARP bolt is re-usable right? If so, how many times can it be used?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Since it is not a torque-to-yield bolt, it can be reused as many times as you want.

wht01ws6ta

iTrader: (45)

So, would you still use the old crank bolt first to make sure the pulley was fully seated and then use the ARP and crank it down to 250ish?

Or just use the ARP and crank it down to 250ish?

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

No point in doing it twice. Install a ARP and torque it to 250Ft lbs.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Nope - when I go to install it, I just use a pulley installer to pull it all the way down onto the snout, take the puller out, and install the ARP bolt and crank it down to 250-ish (with the car in 6th gear, parking brake on).

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

if i am keying my crank dampener. is the arp bolt needed? for high horse? or will the stock bolt be fine

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Keying the crank damper isn't the problem - the stock or ARP bolt would need to be torqued properly regardless. The only beef I ever had with the stock bolt is that it is a torque to yield design - that means one use, and one use only. The ARP can be reused - plus I don't have to measure the degrees of rotation with the ARP.

Dirty 30

iTrader: (96)

MeentSS02, you are the man, thanks!

TJ

iTrader: (10)

DO NOT PULL THE DAMPER ON WITH A BOLT!
make sure you use some type of tool, or a stud with some nuts and washers.
you dont have to get it to 250 pd ft. just get it as tight as you possibly can.
its not going anywhere. even if it does, that balancer isnt comming off, IMO.