T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Guys I just got my D1SC 383 LT4 going and I am building a lot of crankcase pressure. The car is blowing out the dipstick and today it blew oil on the header and started a very small fire

This is what I have currently for crankcase evac
-10 line from the lifter valley to an air/oil seperator to the suckside of the Blower.
I did have a checkvalve installed and when I took the checkvalve out it seemed to help since I started to see build up in the air/oil seperator. It still blowing the dipstick, just not nearly as bad.

What should I do, to help with the crankcase pressure???

Thanks, Ben

FNFAST2

good luck. that is a weird one.

black98ws6ta

iTrader: (77)

If you dont have the boost plumbed into the crankcase then I'd say you have motor problems. Does it smoke or anything?

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I had a similar problem, I put 2 vented breather tanks, one for each valve cover, and capped off the all the PCV ports. That fixed my problem.

Denali08

^^^If not what he said, then might be a broken oil ring.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

I thought about adding some vented breather tanks on the valvecover, but I was advised not to do so??? May have to try it anyways.

The motor is brand new less than 45 minutes run time, surely nothing is messed up.

98Camarod did you have yours setup like mine initially too?

conan

iTrader: (5)

Here is a link to my crank case pressure problems https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rs-inside.html

If your using the blower to pull crank case pressure and the dip stick is still comming out you might have other issues.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the link. Seems like I may just need to add a breather to one of the valvecovers (possible 1 on each). Basically that would be the same as running a line from each valvecover to a vented catchcan.
I just don't want to have any oil smells or oil pucking on the valvecovers.
Do you guys use any type of screens for those applications?

Any more ideas?

conan

iTrader: (5)

I have a hose from both valve covers to the vented catch can. Also you may want to do a compression test just to make sure you dont have a stuck ring in one hole. Just because its brand new doesn't mean some thing cant be wrong.

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

You would still need to setup your system to flush the harmful combustion byproducts out of the crankcase, and just venting will only relieve the crankcase pressure resulting in long-term damage. You need a system that has check-valves in two lines....one so when at idle & non-boost you are using the intake manifold vacume to pull the vapors from the crankcase, and then another at the intake filter to the blower or turbo so that when the intake manifold is under boost the check valve closes not allowing a reversion back to the crankcase, and the vacume is then supplied from the blower intake. A breathered can will relieve crankcase pressure & prevent an oil mess, but will not properly flush the crankcase of the nasty stuff you want out of there. All this should be pulled through a good designed oil seperating catch can to condense & trap the vapors/mist.

You also need a good filtered fresh make-up air source (the stock setup would pull from the front of the TB through the pass valve cover front vent) so a good filtered breather works well.

If you still have issues after setting up the proper system, then as mentioned above you have internal issues. Most likely piston/ring/cyl bore problems allowing excess blow-by.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Initially I had a breather and catch can with it routed to the manifold, then switched to two breathers, then I went with two catch cans.

vrtch ss

Think I had same problem,found out later a chunk of my piston finished off my motor.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I had an oily engine bay from the two valve covers. I don't have any residue coming from the vented catchcan breathers now.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

This may be true for lengthy times in between oil changes. Since I change my oil with less than 2k miles, I don't see a problem in it. My car is a weekend warrior/strip car.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

I am glad you brought that up, I have heard if you change your oil often (no more than 3,000 miles) you can do away with the stock PCV system. Changing the oil on time protects against any harmful substances in the oil IMO, correct me if I am wrong.

Then again this is my daily driver. I always change my oil though by 3,000 miles though.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

On a daily driver I'd be weary about it. Just keep an eye on the oil levels and color of the oil. Mine is still like new when I change mine with 83k on the motor. When the oil changes color thats when impurities are getting in it.

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

You would need to change your oil after every few outings...2-3k miles would still allow damage. Every time the motor reaches operating temp the water & impurities (sulferic acid is just one combustion byproduct) flash-off and become gasses....and if not flushed with a proper evac system (even a simple drag car will have evac valves in the header collectors to pull them out to prevent damage, and most of them change oil every few races as well) these will re-condense when your motor cools down coating any bare metal parts & start to corrode them, and your oil gets it dripped back down into it as well.

On our race motors we run belt drive vac pumps (Moroso or Aeropace technologies are my choice) with a vac relief valve in the opposite valve cover than we pull from. This is them routed to a breathered plain catch can for drainage later. But this setup is not practical for most.

Please understand that I'm not just a weekend motorhead with an opinion based upon what I THINK is true, but an engine builder for the past 40 years and former owner of a pro Alky race team that for years was one of the winningest in the big $ bracket circle, as well as a grad of Reher Morrison race engine building school. This is my life, not a hobby. Just trying to share knowledge (not opinions) of facts...many learned the hard way from expensive damage done in the past.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Sorry, but I'd rather not have the blow by in my turbo and intercooler. There was excessive amounts getting by just the breathers on the valve covers. Now that I have the vented catch cans, there is nothing coming out, no fumes nothing. They are empty also, nothing at the bottom.

I wasn't trying to step on any toes, just letting him know how I fixed the similar problem. I don't really see how what I said is an opinion, the fact is that my blow by is non existent now with the cans. My oil is clean, even with over 80k miles on it.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Well if it makes you guys feel any better I am still kinda of lost, lol.
I have done searching on three different forums and I have heard several ideas and theories on the subjuct?

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

Ben,

I went w/ the Morosso crank case evac kit. Initially I had 4 breathers, then I switched to 2 catch cans--1 per VC along w/ a high grade oil water seperator for the PCV. I still use the oil water seperator now but ditched all those other variations for the crank case kit. My dipstick is welded shut so I don't know about those kinds of things but what I have works. I change my oil every 1500 to 2000 miles and sometimes every 500 miles since it's a weekend toy and nothing else. Don't even see track time in it no more as all they have are 1/8th tracks around these parts.

You may have other issues but I sincerly hope that isn't the case as you've been working on this for a LONG time and that would suck the big one not seeing your hard work pay off for you.

Silas,