How to wire an LC-1 for portable tuning
12-20-2010, 01:21 PM
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How to wire an LC-1 for portable tuning I want to get my LC-1 to work with my EFI live. But I don't need a guage and I need to move it from vehicle to vehicle. Everything i've seen is how to wire it up if you install it in car, how would I wire it up the way I want too.
12-20-2010, 01:29 PM
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Ok think I found it looks like no way around it i'll have to hook up signal ground to efi live and another ground to the car right? And how do you hook up serially to my laptop, the serial cable on the LC-1 is a 2.5mm jack.
12-20-2010, 01:46 PM
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Have you tried the EFILive Forum? There are tutorials that are well written that would cover most of the questions that you've posted.
As far as making your LC1 more portable you can try the following:
-Solder some extensions to your power and ground wires.
-Add a flat male (spade type) connector to your LC1 switched 12V power wire. You can use it to slip into an available switched 12V supply found in the vehicles fuse box. It's also a good idea to have a fuse (10A I think) soldered inline with your 12V switched power of the LC1.
-Add a round (open hole) connector to your now extended ground wire.
Basically the idea is to add extra length where needed in order to make the LC1 more flexible when installing on different vehicles. If you put the right ends on the power and ground wires it really becomes plug and play.
As far as making your LC1 more portable you can try the following:
-Solder some extensions to your power and ground wires.
-Add a flat male (spade type) connector to your LC1 switched 12V power wire. You can use it to slip into an available switched 12V supply found in the vehicles fuse box. It's also a good idea to have a fuse (10A I think) soldered inline with your 12V switched power of the LC1.
-Add a round (open hole) connector to your now extended ground wire.
Basically the idea is to add extra length where needed in order to make the LC1 more flexible when installing on different vehicles. If you put the right ends on the power and ground wires it really becomes plug and play.
12-20-2010, 06:14 PM
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My LC1 is permanent, but I used one end of an O2 extension and wired the wideband to plug into the harness to the pcm.
Originally I did this to use the wideband for a narrowband signal too.
Now I'm connected to one of the rear O2 connectors and the stock pre-cat O2 sensor is back in place.
I also use the serial connection to my V2, other than that the only connection to the car is the ground.
There is info on the EFI Live site on how to wire it for the narrowband, just use that as a reference point and solder it up.
Brad
Originally I did this to use the wideband for a narrowband signal too.
Now I'm connected to one of the rear O2 connectors and the stock pre-cat O2 sensor is back in place.
I also use the serial connection to my V2, other than that the only connection to the car is the ground.
There is info on the EFI Live site on how to wire it for the narrowband, just use that as a reference point and solder it up.
Brad
12-21-2010, 01:12 PM
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Ok so the Serial out on the WB (the 2.5mm jack) goes into the laptop right? Do you still need to hook the signal wires into the V2 flashscan or is that just for analog signal?
12-21-2010, 01:38 PM
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May I suggest some light reading?
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....other-sections...
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12-21-2010, 02:55 PM
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The discussion i seen on that link was for analog isn't the serial output totally a different output? The write-ups I seen were hooking the wires to the orange plugs. Thats what i'm wondering, I know i'd have to hook the power and grounds up but if I use the serial cable do I use the other wires or just not use them?
12-21-2010, 04:46 PM
#9
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You need power/ground, and the 3-wire serial connection (wired as null-modem).
Be sure to plug the 2.5mm stereo terminator plug into the LC-1 SERIAL IN cable, make sure it snaps all the way in (lube it).
The V2 is able to command free air calibration to the LC-1, and is able to read the LC-1's status and of course the AFR/Lambda/EQR.
