How much to install this setup?
04-13-2011, 02:46 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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How much to install this setup? I'm in the process of helping a friend with a speaker setup for his 98 TA and I'm trying to get an idea of what a decent install price would be. I've called a couple shops and none of them have been able to give me an accurate estimate; they just say to bring the car in.
The car already has a Kenwood receiver; we're replacing all of the stock speakers with the KeeAudio premium package, Installing a jl 10 in a stealthbox, and an Infinity 5 channel amp to run the whole setup.
Any ideas of how much this might cost to have installed?
The car already has a Kenwood receiver; we're replacing all of the stock speakers with the KeeAudio premium package, Installing a jl 10 in a stealthbox, and an Infinity 5 channel amp to run the whole setup.
Any ideas of how much this might cost to have installed?
04-13-2011, 03:15 PM
#2
Geek Squad charges about $199.00-250.00 for the install of the amp and all the speakers. There is extra install charges for removing the door panels.
That being said you probably could do it yourself in the driveway in an afternoon with modest tools if you have the time and a driveway to do it in.
The problem I have found with big box stores doing install work is that they will tell you all kinds of BS. Since your running an aftermarket amp then you won't have as much problem with them telling you the whole system has to be replaced because it actually is in this instance right down to the speaker wire.
See if a local shop can do it for you and ask to see some of their work so you can get a feel for the shop and the work they do. That would probably be your best bet for price and quality work. The only good thing about getting the Big Box store to do it is warranty of the work done. Ask about the warranty on labor at the local place to. I warranty all my work and another local shop I help from time to time warranties their work for life or as long as you own the car. A good shop will do that for you.
That being said you probably could do it yourself in the driveway in an afternoon with modest tools if you have the time and a driveway to do it in.
The problem I have found with big box stores doing install work is that they will tell you all kinds of BS. Since your running an aftermarket amp then you won't have as much problem with them telling you the whole system has to be replaced because it actually is in this instance right down to the speaker wire.
See if a local shop can do it for you and ask to see some of their work so you can get a feel for the shop and the work they do. That would probably be your best bet for price and quality work. The only good thing about getting the Big Box store to do it is warranty of the work done. Ask about the warranty on labor at the local place to. I warranty all my work and another local shop I help from time to time warranties their work for life or as long as you own the car. A good shop will do that for you.
04-13-2011, 03:27 PM
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Where's the amp going? Are you providing all the wire? Do you have RCA connections from the HU in place?
After getting myself ***-deep into an install like this last weekend, and being only half done, I can tell you it's probably a lot more work than you first think.
Soldering pigtails with quick disconnects on all the speakers, taking the doors apart, laying speaker all over...
Additionally, you'll need an amp install kit and probably an amp rack of some kind. I'm sure a pro shop can work twice as fast as me, but even so, you're talking at least 5-6 hours plus materials if it's done "right". I don't know what kind of shop rate audio places charge, probably in the $50-$75 range.
Mind you... none of the work is "hard" or even that dirty, it just takes a while and requires some patience with 10 year old plastic pieces and screws that are hard to reach. You'll save a lot of money if you do it yourself, but I can certainly understand the willingness to punt if you value your free time.
After getting myself ***-deep into an install like this last weekend, and being only half done, I can tell you it's probably a lot more work than you first think.
Soldering pigtails with quick disconnects on all the speakers, taking the doors apart, laying speaker all over...
Additionally, you'll need an amp install kit and probably an amp rack of some kind. I'm sure a pro shop can work twice as fast as me, but even so, you're talking at least 5-6 hours plus materials if it's done "right". I don't know what kind of shop rate audio places charge, probably in the $50-$75 range.
Mind you... none of the work is "hard" or even that dirty, it just takes a while and requires some patience with 10 year old plastic pieces and screws that are hard to reach. You'll save a lot of money if you do it yourself, but I can certainly understand the willingness to punt if you value your free time.
04-13-2011, 05:04 PM
#4
I would agree that it is a more tedious job then a hard one. One you do one door panel the other one is fairly easy, it's the first one that can be a challenge. I would say that a Firebird panel is a little easier then a Camaro one.
The Kappa 5 amp is a small amp so it's easy to hide in the hatch area. Spare tire area is a good spot. If you remove the stock amp you can get one in there as well but it does take a little finesse.
I am providing all the wiring so he won't have a problem with install gear, he would have it all in that respect.
The Kappa 5 amp is a small amp so it's easy to hide in the hatch area. Spare tire area is a good spot. If you remove the stock amp you can get one in there as well but it does take a little finesse.
I am providing all the wiring so he won't have a problem with install gear, he would have it all in that respect.
04-13-2011, 07:39 PM
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Thanks for the input fellas. I'm all for doing it myself if I could find some sort of a basic how-to. I've installed several head units and coaxials in different vehicles with ease; I just have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to wiring the components/amplifier. I plan on removing the door panels soon anyway to replace the window motors and I don't mind taking the interior apart myself; tedious yes, hard no. As far as amp placement, I will probably mount it in the spare tire well as there is definitely enough space for the Kappa 5.
If I had someone to lend me a hand that knew what they were doing, I would do it in the garage in a heartbeat. If anyone knows where I can find a nice informative how-to, that would be awesome. I'm going to do some more searching online.
I figured it would be around $250-300; I think most places are going to be in that range. I understand why these places have to charge $200-300 because of how tedious it is; but I really don't want to pay for something I could do at home myself.
If I had someone to lend me a hand that knew what they were doing, I would do it in the garage in a heartbeat. If anyone knows where I can find a nice informative how-to, that would be awesome. I'm going to do some more searching online.
I figured it would be around $250-300; I think most places are going to be in that range. I understand why these places have to charge $200-300 because of how tedious it is; but I really don't want to pay for something I could do at home myself.
04-13-2011, 08:43 PM
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Some useful links...
How to remove a panel, nevermind all the other stuff:
http://www.lastofthebreed.com/Instal.../DoorPanel.htm
Some preventive maintenance you can perform while your panels are off to prevent cracks that are seemingly inevitable:
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...air/index.html
A thread on sail panel replacement... you should have an easier time if you didn't get the bazookas:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ml#post9488460
A thread showing hatch speaker mounting:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...questions.html
Really, the rest is pretty straightforward. Run a pair (woofer + tweeter) of wires through your door grommets to the dash area. Put your crossover blocks under the dash. Home-run speaker wires from all 4 speakers (doors/hatch) to your amp. Put speaker wire under the kick panels and foot sills. You'll have to unbolt the seatbelt anchors with a big torx bit. Run shielded RCA cable from your new HU to your amp using the same channels.
I assume you're gonna run the sail panel cones off the factory amp?
It'll all become pretty clear once you get going. If you have questions you can post here, ask Kee, or send me a PM, even though I'm not exactly an expert by any means.
How to remove a panel, nevermind all the other stuff:
http://www.lastofthebreed.com/Instal.../DoorPanel.htm
Some preventive maintenance you can perform while your panels are off to prevent cracks that are seemingly inevitable:
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...air/index.html
A thread on sail panel replacement... you should have an easier time if you didn't get the bazookas:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ml#post9488460
A thread showing hatch speaker mounting:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...questions.html
Really, the rest is pretty straightforward. Run a pair (woofer + tweeter) of wires through your door grommets to the dash area. Put your crossover blocks under the dash. Home-run speaker wires from all 4 speakers (doors/hatch) to your amp. Put speaker wire under the kick panels and foot sills. You'll have to unbolt the seatbelt anchors with a big torx bit. Run shielded RCA cable from your new HU to your amp using the same channels.
I assume you're gonna run the sail panel cones off the factory amp?
It'll all become pretty clear once you get going. If you have questions you can post here, ask Kee, or send me a PM, even though I'm not exactly an expert by any means.
Last edited by Capricio; 04-13-2011 at 08:48 PM. Reason: more links
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04-13-2011, 09:43 PM
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Really, the rest is pretty straightforward. Run a pair (woofer + tweeter) of wires through your door grommets to the dash area. Put your crossover blocks under the dash. Home-run speaker wires from all 4 speakers (doors/hatch) to your amp. Put speaker wire under the kick panels and foot sills. You'll have to unbolt the seatbelt anchors with a big torx bit. Run shielded RCA cable from your new HU to your amp using the same channels.
I assume you're gonna run the sail panel cones off the factory amp?
It'll all become pretty clear once you get going. If you have questions you can post here, ask Kee, or send me a PM, even though I'm not exactly an expert by any means.
I assume you're gonna run the sail panel cones off the factory amp?
It'll all become pretty clear once you get going. If you have questions you can post here, ask Kee, or send me a PM, even though I'm not exactly an expert by any means.
I found a couple of very basic universal how-to's for wiring an amplifier and wiring component speakers online (ehow.) After reading over them, they seem straightforwward. They are just basic tutorials on how to run the power, ground, and remote wires. I assume they would work for any application.
I'm not sure if I will be using the factory amp at all. Ian gave me some advice here. If I do, I could use the factory amp to run the hatch speakers and run the front and sails off of the kappa. If I don't, I can split the rear channel to run the sub portion of the kappa. (Ian, if I got this wrong, feel free to correct me.)
When running the wires for the new speakers, do you remove all of the old wiring along with the speakers? or is the stock wiring integrated into the vehicles wiring harness? The car will never be returned to stock.
Last edited by 1QuikTransAm; 04-13-2011 at 10:26 PM. Reason: added question
04-14-2011, 10:50 AM
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here is my setpup. it took me like a week or so to do it all. wasnt in a rush, had to battle the elements during the week since i live in an apartment. plus i was cleanin the living bejeesus out of the interior while i was doing it. but this is the final product. i didnt work on it more than a couple hours a day and it was my first time tearing apart a trans am
04-14-2011, 02:18 PM
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thanks. im glad i got one before i found out what all has happened with Image Dynamics. i dont htink their quality gonna stay up to snuff as their current lineup since Eric Stevens left the company
04-15-2011, 12:25 AM
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here is my setpup. it took me like a week or so to do it all. wasnt in a rush, had to battle the elements during the week since i live in an apartment. plus i was cleanin the living bejeesus out of the interior while i was doing it. but this is the final product. i didnt work on it more than a couple hours a day and it was my first time tearing apart a trans am
Do you still have the stock amp running anything, like the hatch speakers?
Last edited by 1QuikTransAm; 04-15-2011 at 01:22 AM.
04-15-2011, 10:26 AM
#13
He probably skipped the hatch and is running sails and doors with that setup. That's what I did in mine. The hatch speakers are optional for rear fill. Also if you open your hatch alot while listening to the stereo...say in a parking lot or something, then it can add to the sound as well.
Some swear by them and have to have them and others skip them.
Some swear by them and have to have them and others skip them.
04-15-2011, 10:34 AM
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right now i have them hooked up cuz i still have the stock radio hooked up. the new stuff isnt hooked up to anything. once i get my new head unit in, then the hatch speakers will not be hooked up anymore
04-15-2011, 12:13 PM
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I bought the HD-6CFs that Kee has on sale for the sail panels. Going to drive them separately with an Audiopipe AP-1002 for midbass. This amp has a fairly high LPF available, up to 5.5KHz. Will set the HPF on the HU to 80 Hz on the F/R channels and take the "output" RCA from my 4 channel amp into the AP, so they will only get true mid-bass signal. I'll set the sub LPF at about 100 Hz to get a little overlap with the midbass, and adjust from there.
I put a KG3/AD-244 145 amp alternator in last week. 3 external amps may seem like overkill, but they all server different specialized purposes. I never thought I would take things this far, but once I start down a path I often get carried away.
Anyways, FWIW, I recommend keeping the hatch fill speakers and the midbass sail panel speakers, even if you settle for driving the sails with the old monsoon amp. I think it adds to a fuller overall soundstage, but as Ian said, it's all personal preference. I kind of like the idea of staying true to the original designer's intent, too.
I put a KG3/AD-244 145 amp alternator in last week. 3 external amps may seem like overkill, but they all server different specialized purposes. I never thought I would take things this far, but once I start down a path I often get carried away.
Anyways, FWIW, I recommend keeping the hatch fill speakers and the midbass sail panel speakers, even if you settle for driving the sails with the old monsoon amp. I think it adds to a fuller overall soundstage, but as Ian said, it's all personal preference. I kind of like the idea of staying true to the original designer's intent, too.
04-18-2011, 11:26 PM
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Anyways, FWIW, I recommend keeping the hatch fill speakers and the midbass sail panel speakers, even if you settle for driving the sails with the old monsoon amp. I think it adds to a fuller overall soundstage, but as Ian said, it's all personal preference. I kind of like the idea of staying true to the original designer's intent, too.
I'm not sure if it's a good idea, it just seems to make sense to me. If there's a specific reason I should wire it the way you suggested (sails on monsoon/hatch on new amp,) please let me know!
Thanks for all the input guys
04-19-2011, 08:07 PM
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