20sickss00

iTrader: (19)

Just spun a rod bearing in my ss a few months ago, car has been sitting ever since, im trying to decide what i want to do with it this winter. it has prc 2.5 ls6 heads and tsunami cam, and all the supporting bolt ons. I just picked up a fast 102 setup and am getting texas speed 1 7/8th headers. car made 430 to the wheels with an ls6 intake. Should I just fix my bottom end, new good bearings/ arp bolts and what not, or swap an lq9 in it, with putting new bearings bolts etc in it also. What is the benefit of doing so and am I going to see much more power with a 6.0? this is a budget setup and i figure a 6.0 would get me a little more power for not a ton of money like a stroker kit or forged bottom end... or should i just keep/fix and run what i have.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i would try hard to find a (working) stock lq9 bottom end and simply swap it out.

you could prob sell the blown ls1 short and make some of your cash back.

ls1ya

iTrader: (2)

I regret that I rebuilt my ls1. For what I spent I could have done a lq4 full bolt ons with possibly forged pistons. I know better now.

PREDATOR-Z

When I went 370cid, I noticed a difference in handling due to the extra weight and had to compensate with better bushings, shocks and relocation of battery.
I would have preferred another alum block, but mine was toast so funds dictated the 6.0 swap.

odarabla

iTrader: (1)

The LQ9 block is a pig heavy block. It's almost as heavy as a big block!! I bought a LQ9 for my stroker build but decided to ditch that project in favor of the lighter LS2 block. I now have a LS2 402ci in the car and besides the $$$ spent I don't regret a thing. If I would do it your way I would stay with the LS1 block, put good rod bolts amd forged pistons in the motor then bump the compression up to about 11.5-1. Change the cam and be done with it. To me the extra power you would get out of the LQ9 doesn't justify the extra weight you will carry.. Just my oppinion..

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Assuming that one rod and possibly the crank are junk....maybe use that
block cuz it's light and you have it already. Then price a somewhat budget
friendly rotating assembly with a 4" stroke to make a 383 cid. Your heads and
cam would work real nice with the added grunt.

20sickss00

iTrader: (19)

I would love to do a 383 forged bottom end, but i just cant afford the 2-2500 rotating assembly and then the cost to get the stock block machined, then the bottom end assembled/balaced. If I do all of that I might as well call texas speed up and buy their brand new assembled 383 block for 4k. thats why I was considering a simple 6.0 swap. but if it does add all the extra weight and the gain in power doesnt compensate for it, I'll just hang on to what I already have. the new fast will get me to 450 at the wheels if not more anyway. Its not a race car, just a fun weekend driver. is an ls2 block interchangeable with my top end? and they are aluminum blocks right?

09camaro383

iTrader: (2)

u did spent 1300 or going to on that ↑ i will say wait a little more and save some cash and get a 383 stroker kit

s346k

iTrader: (4)

the iron block is what...90lbs heavier? the power gains would far outweigh the extra weight, especially with his mods.

it would be a cheap swap that could prob realistically be done for <$500 if he could find *just a working short for sale.

COPO9560

You should pull your LS1 apart and see what the actual damage is before making a decision. You might be able to have the crank turned and replace one rod/piston and get back on the road for the cost for a block hone, rings & bearings.

If everything inside if fragged, then you can look for another short block.

KC&97TA

iTrader: (1)

LQ4 or LQ9 are 65 lbs heavier... Well worth the displacement, if you can't cope with that a LS2 can be taken out to 408 safely as well. 65lbs can be off set in weight by 8 more horse power! Handling on a lowered car with decent shocks is barely noticeable.

having a forged engine now I have no regrets for spending the $4200 on a TSP Short Block... no regrets at all and I've seen 21 mpg hwy with it and 10.9x NA passes.

if your 2000 Camaro is anything like the rest of ours it had 100k+ miles, that weren't the easiest of miles, time for a new motor, and one that will last...

20sickss00

iTrader: (19)

The car only has 70k on it and I only drive it 3k a year. The fast was bought barely used for 900with tb, and after selling my ls6 and tb and rails for 450 that was a deal. and selling my current headers will make of some of that cost of new ones. But what kind of power will I get to if I do go with the 6.0. I know its the right way to get a forged bottom end, but thats out of the budget right now.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

430lbs for a fully dressed aluminum motor, 518lbs for a fully dressed iron motor (still lighter than an LT1).

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

What do you want it to get to? What're your goals? Dyno queen or timeslips?

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

I would try to find a good ls2 before I went with a LQ9, I think the pistions are lower compression that a ls1 but I am not 100 percent sure on this I could be wrong.
I know for sure the LQ4s are

why dont you just rebuild what you have, Most likely you can save the crankshaft, and get the motor rebuild with all new bearings and rings and have a brand new engine. you are taking a gamble buy buying a another used motor if you are on a budget build and wind up with another bad motor then your really on the outs.

I would go for a rebuild hands down, and you can get nice rotating assemblies for alot cheeper than 2000 dollars.

SippiSpeedhawk

iTrader: (21)

As long as you aren't doing autox you shouldn't notice the extra weight of the iron block. Like others have said, the extra weight will easily be compensated for by the extra power you will gain from the displacement in the straight line. Throw some curves in there and it's a different story though.

KC&97TA

iTrader: (1)

13 pages of 6.2 L engines... pick your set up

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...s-part-ii.html

If you want to know what a true 6.0 will do you'd be benefited by researching the GTO sections... LS2 is a great way to go as well.

LS1TA_956

iTrader: (1)

I say go with the lq9

20sickss00

iTrader: (19)

will my top end bolt right up to an ls2? what are the differences between ls2 and lq9, the car for sure wont be an autox car so the wieght doesnt bother me too much, but im also not building a racecar. I just thought while th emotor is out this is the time to swtich things around if it is worth it or not. if not i will be keeping what i have, but i thought if i found a good 6.0 put new bearings/rings/ bolts in it, it would be good to go for what i want. like i said, its just a fun weekend driver but more power never hurts...

KC&97TA

iTrader: (1)

prc 2.5 ls6 heads and tsunami cam, and all the supporting bolt ons, fast 102 setup and texas speed 1 7/8th headers

From the parts you have listed in post one, You're golden with either motor, the bolts and the reluctor are different between them, everything else is good. Spend the time/money and put forged pistons and rods in it, you'll thank yourself latter.

TSP does a 370 for $3400 or a 408 for $3800... I hesitated when I bought mine, but I'm glad I did.