ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

I lowered my car maybe half a year ago with strano springs (love them!) and have yet to do an alignment since then. I just went half with a friend on the alignment tool needed for our cars and planning on doing an alignment one of these days soon in the shop.

Is there anything I should change compared to the stock specifications due to it being lowered 1.2", and is there any changes I can make to improve handling? I am not so concerned with tire wear now that the Z isn't my daily driver anymore (sometimes hydro-locking can be a good thing lol). Would love to see Sam chime in on this but I'll listen to anyone else with more knowledge on this subject than I. We're currently studying alignment angles and such, but I'm still learning. If it makes any difference, my tires are 275/40/17 front and 295/35/18 rear.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/6864738-post3.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ano-setup.html

KEVS98LS1

iTrader: (2)

I am in the same boat as you.I would also like to get some feedback.

02ws.sik

I read a guy that did what you did and had a -2 degrre chamber for handling.

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a bunch for the quick replies, I found this thread the most helpful:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ent-specs.html

Looks like I will be going with these specs:

Camber: -1.3-5* (depends on how far I can get it)
Caster: +4.5
Toe: 1/32" of toe out

I'll post back after I do it with before/after specs and let you guys know how it drives.

02ws.sik

Wouldnt a toe in handle better and on the chamber only -2 deg. It will wear the tires like stock 5 will wear uneven

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

From what I understand a slight amount of toe out would make it handle better and will want to turn into turns fast, but anything more than 1/16" would make it unstable at high speeds in a straight line. Slight amount of toe in will give you better stability at higher speeds and won't want to wander as much but will be harder to steer.

Shadow1999

Camber: -1.25-1.5* (or as close to equall per side as you can get)
Caster: +4.5 (or as close per side as you can get)
Toe: 1/16" toe in (for deflection)

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Not a bad set of "target" settings, but I'd give the pass side a little more caster to allow for "road crown".

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

Yea I read about that...If it wants to wander after I do the alignment, I'll adjust the caster to compensate.

Xaviarrahl

iTrader: (3)

By lowering the car you've lowered the CG, I would think it'd require less negative camber than a 'higher' car to achieve the same angle when cornering

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

This. Anything more on a street-driven car and you're just chewing through tires needlessly. Even at -1.2-1.4 caster settings, my car was chewing through the insides of tires due to all of the straight-line street driving. If you want a lighter, more darty feel, go with a 0 toe or 1/16" toe out. With a 3.8L V6 under the hood of my car, I had the alignment set to -1.2 camber, +4.8 caster, 1/16" toe out. It handled incredibly well but went through tires noticeably fast due to inside tire wear. I have since gone to a closer-to-stock setup to prolong tire life... and swapped out the V6 in favor of an LS1.