Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Is there any way to diagnose knock retard to determine if it is false knock or detonation? I know I am pulling 12* of knock at idle and 3* to 5* knock at WOT.

Knock sensor and Knock module are both brand new.

It was not pulling any knock when we first loaded the tune but now it is. I need it to stop. I dont have any way to tug on the exhaust at the moment to make sure it isnt hitting because I can't really get under the car, so is there anything I can do to eliminate OR CONFIRM that this is detonation so I can move to the next step? This is the first time I have ever seen knock on my car so I am a little lost on how to make it stop...

97lt1camaro

iTrader: (3)

I just dealt with this today. Run some high octane in it. That will determine if its false or not. I ran 105 octane through mine today just to make sure. Mines pulling up to 15* of timing at wot if i let it. Right now the max retard tables are set to 4*, so thats all it will pull.

The higher octane wont detonate, so if its false knock, the knock will still be there with the high octange.


The other thing i did to make sure it wasnt real knock was command 25* timing at all times. ( i have hptuners and can do this via the vcm controls on the scanner, 24x swap up in here ) Go for a rip with the timing set to only go to 25*max . Still pulling the same amount of timing in the same places, so i know that its not because of too much timing.

EDIT: Roller rocker noise will set it off also. Maybe go over that to make sure nothing loosened up

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Ok, I got bck out there and fired it up with the datalogger on again. BEFORE this, at idle it was seeing 12* of Knock Retard. Just now, the Knock Retard ranged from 7 to 1 at idle...I have changed nothing.

Could ANY of this be related to a bad Coolant Temp Sensor? (The one in the WP, not the one for the gauge.) Just curious

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

So you are saying I do something like this: Datalog a run...drop my ENTIRE spark advance table down to 25*...re-datalog and if it is still pulling knock like it was on the first datalog then it is false...if it stops pulling knock, it is detonation?

97lt1camaro

iTrader: (3)

Thats more or less what i did. Only to verify it wasnt sensing knock because there was too much timing however.
Ive read on some diy tuning websites that too much timing will cause it to ping/knock.

The high octane fuel will rule out fuel being the issue causing detonation. If you run high octane fuel in it and get no change in the knock then its a pretty good indicator its false knock.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

If that was the case though, wouldn't have shown knock when I was tuning and datalogging it? Because I did some street driving and some WOT pulls on the current tune immediately after I loaded it and nothing...

97lt1camaro

iTrader: (3)

I would of thought the same thing, until today when i was datalogging mine. The first couple run i logged i rolled into the throttle in first gear and it showed no knock at all. Then showed up right after when i continued beating on it. The car was at temp for all of the runs.

Mine is only showing up at wot , high rpm and around .7 / .8 g/cyl area. I have nothing under 3000rpm.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

I have it EVERYWHERE, and it is the worst at idle...The ONLT time I am at 0 knock is when I accelerate then let off the gas...during decel it shows 0 knock...that is it

97lt1camaro

iTrader: (3)

lt4 knock module?

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, brand new

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Ok, so I pulled off the driver side valve cover and checked the rockers...all looks good there. Nothing was loose or off. i didnt do the pass side because I really dont wanna take my alternator off tonight lol. I pulled out the #1 Spark Plug and looked at it...White Diode and white Tip with a small amount of light brown (almost copper) in there. No oil. Tells me it is running lean which I knew. Nothing looks overly out of the ordinary though. I will pull the pass valve cover off tomorrow and see what it looks like, an I am going to double check all of my exhaust to make sure nothing is hitting anywhere. If that doesnt fix the problem, it will be something in the tune and I will get my tuner to start tweeking it.

FAD2BLK93

Usually when i see that much retard at idle its the km in the block. Either not hooked up correctly or broken wire maybe. Check for the 5 volt signal to it. I am sure SHBOX has a test proceedure to check it out.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

There isn't a KM in the block on LT1's...there is a Knock Sensor, is that what you are referring to?

katz_2003

iTrader: (5)

yes, he means the knock sensor is supposed to read 5 volts with key on. Here is the test via shbox http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html I've heard if you over torque the knock sensor it could damage the sensor too.

97lt1camaro

iTrader: (3)

What kind of timing are you seeing at idle, cruising, and wot throttle anyways?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Have you had the opportunity to run the higher octane fuel in it?

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

At Idle 2 days ago it was showing 12* which was the max retard I was set up to allow. At Idle yesterday it was bouncing between 7* and 1*. I am seeing about 23* of Spark Adv at idle and i am tuned to be at 25.

Cruising it would bounce around a lot...anywhere from 5* to 0.06*. I am seeing anywhere from 0 to 44* of advance......It is bouncing around A LOT. At 40 mph and 2000 rpm's kPa is right around 40-45 and I am seeing 41-42* Advance.

WOT it was between 3* and 5*, I am showing 32-36* Advance at WOT with a kPa bouncing from 79 to 84. With the engine off my kPa is at 85.2

My timing is all OVER the place and it shouldnt be should it??

Not yet, I am flat broke and don't get paid for a few more days...

pancho toco loco

iTrader: (8)

Off topic here but where are you getting unleaded 105 octane? Highest around here is 100, either local speed shop or at the track.