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HELP! car wont start after BCM fix

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Old 08-20-2012, 05:33 PM
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Exclamation HELP! car wont start after BCM fix

Tried posting this in the general repairs section but i doubt it will get much attention over there.

Well i did this fix once before where you add solder to the "T" on the body control module to fix the windows/radio randomly cutting out. It started doing it again so in the process of fixing it again i accidently let the line of solder i was using touch the BCM and i heard a pop(of course like a true dumbass i didnt disconnect the battery first). I put everything back in place and now i cant start the car. When i try i hear two quick clicks that soung like they're coming from around the fuse box in the engine bay.

The radio and windows will work until i try to start it. Horn works. The fuel pump primes. The power door locks/keyless entry remote doesnt work. also the door dinger doesnt work. The security light is not on or flashing at any point.

I've checked my fuses related to starting and ignition. Do i need to buy a new BCM? or it is something else? i dont know what else to check. If i try putting in my buddies BCM in from his 95 formula that would just be a waste of time right since its already programmed to his key?

Yes im stupid and i need help fixing this. Im so pissed off at myself right now. Please help me. Car is a 97 ws6

Last edited by BadBirdie; 08-20-2012 at 06:14 PM.
Old 08-20-2012, 05:52 PM
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If you have access to a volt meter, check the purple wire that is running over along the passenger fender in the engine compartment.

There should be a 1 wire connector between the shock tower and battery (the purple wire doesn't connect to the battery, I'm just trying to state where the connctor is)

Pull the orange safety wire thing off, then pull the connector apart.

Have some one turn the ignition while you are measuring the end of the purple wire on the battery side of the connection. If you get 12VDC there when the ignition key is being turned to start, then all the relays in the circuit are good, and something is definitely up with either the starter or the BCM.
Old 08-20-2012, 07:04 PM
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I will try to get a hold of a volt meter and try what you suggested. Should i even bother trying a swap with my friends BCM from his 95 six speed formula?
Old 08-20-2012, 07:05 PM
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It wont work if your keys have different resistors.

If they're the same, then that would be a good test.
Old 08-20-2012, 07:07 PM
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Here are two schematics I posted elsewhere:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...connection.gif

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...ercontrols.jpg
Old 08-21-2012, 02:30 AM
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how can i tell if our keys have the same resistors?
Old 08-21-2012, 08:17 AM
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Measure the resistance of the pellet on both keys with an ohm meter. Most volt meters will also measure ohms.
Old 08-21-2012, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BadBirdie
...
in the process of fixing it again i accidently let the line of solder i was using touch the BCM and i heard a pop(of course like a true dumbass i didnt disconnect the battery first). I put everything back in place and now i cant start the car.
...
You need to locate what component(s) popped on the BCM board and replace it/them... or replace the BCM (get it programmed for your key).
Old 08-21-2012, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by joecar
You need to locate what component(s) popped on the BCM board and replace it/them... or replace the BCM (get it programmed for your key).
A new BCM will record whatever key value is first used with it.

And please, please, disconnect your battery and then the BCM from the harness.
Old 08-21-2012, 01:09 PM
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Still waiting on a voltmeter, but just want to clarify that this is the connector to measure? There is only one purple wire coming from the bottom(side closer to front of car) of the connector on the left. You are saying pull the black thing out of the bottom and measure the end of purple wire to the spot were purple wire goes into connector?



Old 08-21-2012, 01:31 PM
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I see your pics, as our company blocks stuff like photobucket and picasa.

Searching for engine bay pics is not very good either.

Here's one:

http://www.zorly.com/images_camaro/0...oski%20Jr..jpg


If you look at the one, sole wire to the left of the ground post, that's the purple wire that goes to the starter.

when you pull off the orange safety pin, and unplug the connector, you'll be left with two ends.

The end closest to the front of the car is coming from the relay, you should have 12VDC here when someone is turning the ignition switch to the start position.

The other end goes straight to the starter coil. Jumping 12VDC to this wire, will turn the starter motor. DO NOT DO THIS IF THE CAR IS ON JACK STANDS OR IN GEAR.

You are by passing everything at that point. It's like sticking a screw drive on the start studs on older SBC cars.
Old 08-21-2012, 03:21 PM
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Mine is not there. Guess i'll have to try and trace it from the starter. It would be in the same location for a lt1?
Old 08-21-2012, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BadBirdie
Mine is not there. Guess i'll have to try and trace it from the starter. It would be in the same location for a lt1?
I'm not sure, but I would think so.

I can't tell in this pic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/293872...-camaro/page-3


It might be inside a wiring loom. It should be the only thick purple wire going along that fender edge.
Old 08-21-2012, 07:22 PM
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Could you check the relays from the ON position?
Old 08-21-2012, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
I'm not sure, but I would think so.

I can't tell in this pic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/293872...-camaro/page-3


It might be inside a wiring loom. It should be the only thick purple wire going along that fender edge.
I think i see it in the top left pic of what you posted. I opened the looms on mine and there is no thick purple wire to be found anywhere in that area. I got my hands on a volt meter finally so i'll crawl under the car tomorrow and search for it.
Old 08-22-2012, 05:01 PM
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LT1s are NOT LS1s. There is no purple wire.
Old 08-22-2012, 06:08 PM
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I looked today and there is a purple wire coming from the starter but no connector like LS1's have apparently. I think what im going to have to do is get a new BCM from a dealer and im guessing its gonna cost about $300. Unless of course someone knows where to get a NEW one for cheaper?



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