Hal StClair

iTrader: (3)

I have a 1965 Olds Vista Cruiser I'm in the process of installing a 04 GTO LS1/4l60e into and am having issues with making the ignition switch work correctly. Doing a search shows that adding a jumper between the start and run terminals would work but doing that will keep the starter engaged all the time. Am I missing something here or is there a better way. I suppose a relay could be used but there must be an easier way. Any ideas? Thanks,Hal

oldgoat69

Are you trying to use the orig switch to energize a relay? If so you can go right to the bulkhead connector and make a jumper there. It is a bit messy, with the tar and all, but this is the same way you go if you want to run HEI in the early cars. Look at a factory wiring diagram for specifics. This is how I did my car. It all works perfectly, and you can strip out a bunch of useless wiring.

kwhizz

Just put in a aftermarket switch and be thru with it.......

454ragtop

iTrader: (1)

Not enough info. What are you trying to do? Can't think of any reason to add a jumper between "start" and "run", "run" should be hot with switch in the"start" position, unless your switch is bad.
Jim

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yes.. first of all, what is the problem or issue. I'm with 454ragtop on this..

Why do you think you need a jumper between Start and Run.. ?

are you having issue with the IGN hot wires (Pink) staying hot while starting.. ?.. if so.. that is a common issue with some of these older GM cars.. some had a wire coming from the starter/solenoid to the coil to make sure the coil stayed hot or got full 12+volts... you need to find a wire that stays hot and doesn't get interupted going between Run => Start => Run.

Hal StClair

iTrader: (3)

The early GM ignition switches didn't have power to the coil in the start position and used the starter solenoid to jump to the coil during cranking. I need to have ignition power available while cranking but don't see any way to do it without adding a relay. Replacing the switch doesn't look like an option as this is a dash mounted switch with a unique bezel. Hacking up the dash isn't an option and the later switches typically were column mounted.
There were posts about adding a jumper but I really don't know how that will work without keeping the starter engaged when in the run position.
Thanks for the replies, Hal

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Ok.. so you are trying to power the EFI and Accessories via the Pink IGN 12+volts..(PCM, Sensors, relays, etc) as the Key is turned to the Run (and Start).

What I did was took a Digital Volt Meter and check the wires coming from the Key to the Fuse box. With the Key on Run.. I check to see what had voltage.. then still monitoring, turn the Key to Start.. if it stayed Hot. .then I would tap into that wire to power a relay for all of the Pink IGN wires.

If it went cold.. move to the next wire.. I can't tell you which one to try (most likely Orange, Red or Pink ?)... as I don't have the wiring diagram for your car.


BC

Hal StClair

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply, that's the way I was going to approach it if I couldn't find a simpler method. With all the early GM hybrids on here I hopped someone had come up with a simpler way around this problem. Thanks,Hal

454ragtop

iTrader: (1)

Wow, that's weird, didn't know early cars shut off "run" when in "start". I know they shut off "acc". I wonder if replacement switches for your car are still made that way? You could add a jumper, but it would need a diode in it, to only let the power flow from "start" to "run", and not the other way. On further thought, I think you have something wrong here. I recently installed an HEI in a 66 Impala, swapped out the ballast wire in the firewall connector to a reg wire, did away with the starter bypass, and it works fine. Are you sure you don't have a bad switch, or wires swapped to wrong terminals at the switch?
HTH, Jim