Not Me

iTrader: (7)

I have 72 Monte Carlo a-body. I've been reading up on it. An was trying to get some in put on what oil pan would be best. I have a lq9 with 4l60e. I'm seeing the 6.0 pan mite sit to low for stock ride height. Little help Thanks guys

ChevyTrukRacer99

iTrader: (2)

Ls1 f body pans are what most swap guys are using. They are about 4" shallower than the truck pans.

88Fbody6L

iTrader: (5)

Holley or mast pan fit nicely but pricey

oldgoat69

No might about it, the truck pan sits too low. Check the stickies for pan options. Several manufacturers offer pans that require no cutting of the frame.

jlay

iTrader: (2)

I went with a cts-v pan in my 72 chevelle and it was TIGHT! I also had to have the motor sitting a little further back than stock so I have to shorten my drive shaft a couple of inches. If i were to do it over again I would spend the additional $200 and get the Mast or Champ pan. It would have been money well spent.

Not Me

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys I've been reading on the oil pan treads and stickies for two days an truly don't feel any closer to doing my swap. Never thought it would be this hard find a good pan. As I'm on a budget. I'm thinking of the cts-v pan for price. But how hard is it to get in there

cbrodine

Don't let all the reading discourage you. You just gotta do a little homework first before buying parts. One very important thing to consider BEFORE you pick your oil pan is what mounts are you going to use for your install? That will come into play for making an oil pan choice. I used BRP Muscle Rod's LS swap kit in my 69 GM A body...because of where the BRP kit mounts place the engine dictates that I will use the CTS-V pan...something to think about.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

There are only a few options and all of them have been used several times over, if you've read the builds I'm not sure exactly what you are looking for in terms of information? If you are asking "what is a cheap pan that will work well" then the answer is there isn't one; it's a matter or which acceptable pan is least expensive. Unless you have fab skills there is no way around spending some money. Maybe rework your harness yourself and put that money toward the oil pan.

spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

Love my Autokraft/Champ pan. Pretty sure it fits A-body as well as it does G-bodies

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

Is your steering setup in front of the cross member or behind it? If in front, you could consider the corvette batwing pan as well. It seems they aren't popular in transplants, and thus might be cheap. My engine dropped right in with a vette pan (2nd gen f-body). As others have said, do some research and measuring first.

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

If you end up needing a ctsv pan shoot me a pm,ill make you a good deal on a good used one I got

krwyellowZ28

iTrader: (10)

If you don't want to drop the $$$ on the sheet metal pans and you have a welder, go with the f-body pan, buy or make some 3/4" or 1" setback plates, and notch the cross member. You'll end up with zero ground clearance issues, no steering knuckle interference, and excellent stock baffling. Once you get past the first cut, its easy!

mpmarino

iTrader: (1)

Will anyone admit to modifying a cast aluminum pan by brazing? That is, if anyone has done it...?

pwirth

I just want to throw my latest expirience in. I bought a Holley retro pan for My 72 Buick. I liked the sump set up and that part fit nicely. The problem I have is that the front of the pan is 2.5" deep. I can not get the front of the engine down for enough to get less than 5 degrees of angle on the engine. I will either have to cut open the floor or change to a pan that is shallower in the front. As I do more research it looks like the Mast pan has 1.7 inches in the front but a larger sump. Checking into a Champ oil pan. I can not find the dimensions on the Champ pan anywhere. I have been trying to fit the engine with the Holley pan on it for over a month. I do not know if Summit will give me a refund on it. I have been thinking of modifying the Holley pan But at over $400 it is hard to just start hacking it up!

avewhtboy

I completely understand why this is a problem. You can buy a complete 5.3 motor for $500 then people want you to pony up $400 for a stupid oil pan. I don't get it. I finally, hopefully have an f-body pan on the way for $210 then will probably have to modify it on top of that. This one part could easily be the most expensive if you don't get it right the first time.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Bottom line, no OEM Truck pan (without modifications) is an acceptiable pan to use on a Car swap. That is unless you have a stock or higher car and suspension !

CTS-V is can be used, but still will (most of the time) hange about 1" below the x-member. Will also need to move the engine back as far as you can get it (and up).
I bottomed out on mine and cracked it. 20 mile ride home in a Tow truck.. !

F-Body can fit, but is way to tight IMO, would not recommend it without notching it.
Holley and MAST are good recommendation for a Cast Pan, as is most of the steel pans.

these are just my opinons..

BC

69face

You hit it right on the nail!!! Definitely the priciest part I've dealt with in every swap I've done. For the original poster go with the F-body pan modified. The steering clears great and you can adjust the engine any way you would like although I personally always go with 1" setback plates on the A-body swaps. I'll go out and take a pic and post it when I get a chance.

69face

I spaced the frame mounts up, because I was originally using a modified truck pan which has the lower front area that interferes with the steering linkage. I am very happy with the modified F-body oil pan. The pan that you see behind the crossmember is the transmission oil pan, which would never touch anything unless you plan on going offroading.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

First Pic: Engine in stock position for the original SBC, bolted to factory TH350 in the stock position, and using Edelbrock muscle car headers. C5 batwing pan dropped right in with no mods to the pan or frame, except me tapping a second oil drain (yellow arrow).

Second Pic: Trans replaced with T56 (can barely be seen in lower left), the engine still in the original location.

This is in a 2nd Gen F-body. Research fitment first. Your luck might not be as good as mine, but you can get a batwing all day long on ebay for less than $150.