LSONE

iTrader: (1)

when replacing the pully, i've heard heating it is the best/easiest way to get it on. do you guys think its easier to put it in the oven @ 200* or use a slapp propane tourch the heat the center? whuch is easier?

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I would feel more comfortable putting it in the oven than hitting it with a torch. A torch may not heat it evenly causing it to expand unevenly which will cause more problems than solve.

Put the oven on warm or the lowest setting and go from there...

Dustin 98TA

The oven is not gonna get it hot enough, and if it did it would melt the rubber in the balancer. Use a torch and heat the center of it going in circles, ive done it like this and never had a problem.

tomaSS

iTrader: (1)

I put mine in the oven at 200* and it did not seem to help. The longer crank bolt is what you need to put it on. There are some other threads where people heated up their pullies with a torch. Seemed to work for them.

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

Just get the longer bolt dude... you can get it at a fastener store. I forget the dimensions... but it worked so well, my mechanic friend picked one up for himself...

tomaSS

iTrader: (1)

I used a 16mm (2.0 pitch) x 130 mm and a few washers.

code4

iTrader: (30)

Here's what i use. 6" all thread bolt, nut, washer.

1BadMoFo

iTrader: (1)

I bought one from Code 4, I haven't used it yet, but was wondering if there might be enough length to go with a bearing instead of the washer? If it'll even matter....code 4?

code4

iTrader: (30)

Yes there is plenty of room to use a bearing but I don't see a need. Mine went in easily. I screwed the bolt in all the way then back out a 1/4 turn. Put the washers on there and went right on using a deep socket/ratchet. I stopped when the bolt started getting real tight, by this time the pulley is 99% on. Removed pulley tool then put in old bolt to do the 240 lb ft torque.

FAST LS1

iTrader: (2)

I bought and used the kit from Code 4 when I installed my ASP pulley.
The long bolt might work, but I bet it's really hard on the threads in the
crank, which is something I wouldn't want to even think about stripping.
You'll have to pay for the long bolt or code 4's kit so I'd go the safe way
and buy the all thread rod.

On topic, I heated my ASP pulley with a space heater and just got it warm
to the touch, maybe 100degrees. It slid on a little bit but not much it was
also about 40 degrees outside when I installed it.

SpeedDreaming

Heat it to 250F in an oven for 1/2 hour.

You'll never get the whole thing heated up uniformly with a propane torch. You need to heat the whole pulley not just the center. It will still need a bolt to pull it on but will bottom out a lot [A LOT] easier.

Good luck

Mike

DWillTA

iTrader: (3)

I thought you needed to refrigerate or cool the dampener to constrict or shrink the metal. This would enlarge the hole and make it alittle easier to install the dampener. This is what I have always done. It helps enough to get it started. Just my thoughts. Later

code4

iTrader: (30)

I'll ship one of these tools to your door for $15.00. It's about what I have into them as the grade 8.8 bolts are expensive. The industrial strength washers I get for a good deal.

1BadMoFo

iTrader: (1)

You'll probably laugh your *** off at my stupidity, but some reason I am now following this at all...

I'm sure it'll be quite obvious once I'm in there but since I've never messed with any pulley's on any cars I'm just not with ya

SpeedDreaming

As posted before:

If you can't find this anywhere, none of the sponsors I checked stock this thing:

16 MM x 2.0 [coarse]thread pitch x 120 mm long, grade DIN 10.9 [metric grade 8] bolt for crank pulley removal/installs......

Available through:

Maryland Metrics, Inc
6119 Oakleaf Ave
410-358-3130 phone
e-mail:sales@mdmetric.com.

..........not to take away from code4's offering, but you can get the bolt for $3.
The washer I got from Reilly's auto for 60 cents. And steel expands when heated, always think of those old Western movies, they heat the hoop then shrink it over the wooden wagon wheel with cold water, if you live in WV it's always cold as a witch's T anyway so you might not notice, but cold shrinks steel....

Shrinkage.

Mike

code4

iTrader: (30)

Your not taking anything away from me. I had to buy a 3ft long bolt to make my tool. It was $59.00 and it made six tools. I have 1 or 2 left.
I use a 120mm long bolt as well for my 3 jaw puller to push against when removing the pulley. $9.00 at NAPA. The problem with the 120mm bolt I have seen on this board is that guys bottom out the threads and some how get the bolt stuck in the crank. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ley+bolt+stuck
I think it just boils down to common sense.

SpeedDreaming

....The problem with the 120mm bolt I have seen on this board is that guys bottom out the threads and some how get the bolt stuck in the crank.....

Oh yeah, then you're in big trouble. Once you gall the threads, you can you get an accurate torque reading? For that, you be better off with your threaded rod

way2slow

I'll take one. Let me know if I can paypal you.

GTOtoGO

iTrader: (1)

Hello,

I understand you made a few crank bolts with threaded rod.

I could use one for my install.

Do you have a kit left?

I would like one.

Please provide paypal info if still available.

Thanks,

Kelly

Bluehawk27

I bought one from Code 4, it worked great. And came back out very easily when I was done. I would not hesitate to use it again or recommend someone else to use it. Its going in my tool box.