Black98Z28

iTrader: (8)

Ok so i put on the Pace setter long tubes on wednesday night, i reused the stock gaskets for the headers, got them in snug and tight. The only problem was the o2 on the stock driver side manifold, the o2 sensor was stuck into place i mean i couldnt get it off for crap. So i put the o2 Sims on the rear (passanger and driver) and since i had taken off both the o2 sensors i decided to use the rear driver side on the front. Today I got the y pipe installed and cutout welded on today. Well after leaving the muffler shop where my friend works, i got on it for the first time, she started to "pop" a lot when in the upper RPM's when this happend she would lose power and want to bog... so i was thinking it was the o2 from the rear...

Well i got home tonight and i finished clamping the y pipe up. Well i soaked the o2 sensor that wouldnt come out with WD-40, i got it out after a crap load of banging, i find out to my surprise that it has been cross threaded so i pull out the one on the front that i had from the rear and begin to put in the one from the stock manifold, i basically get it all the way in which im pretty sure i did, it was insanly hard to tighten, so i go out for a drive, the car is still "popping" in the high rpm's and she seems to not sound as loud as she did before... Could it be the o2 sensor? or can it be a spark plug wire? or spark plug? i did remove all wires before installing my headers... Please help me thanks!
Or maybe the driver side o2 isnt all the way tight?

you can see in this video where i get on it a little bit the popping sound, its the same as it was with open headers as it is now!
http://media.putfile.com/98-Camaro-LS1-Open-Headers

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

FWIW, all four o2 sensors are interchangeable, so moving one from the rear to the front won't hurt anything. As far as the popping, sometimes after a header swap it takes a few driving cycles for the car to "relearn" the fuel curve and it'll spit/sputter for awhile. I'd drive it for a few days and see if it gets any better.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Sounds iginition related to me, get some new plugs (you may have cracked one putting the headers in) a set of NGK TR55s are a popular plug around here, make sure your wires are on good (2 clicks for the coils and one click for the plug) and use some dielectric grease for the boots (makes it easier to get them off)
I also noticed the temp gauge was reading pretty cold, I know on mine if I don't get it warm,(210 indicated) it'll pop a bit on deceleration

Black98Z28

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the advice fellas, im gona go check the plugs and wires here in a bit, i have the taylor thundervolts, i did one side and my dad did the other, i think he might have pushed them all the way, we will see.

Black98Z28

iTrader: (8)

was checking the passenger side plug wires, found one wire to be loose as hell, so i pulled on it and it came out, i checked the plug and i was able to spin the metal tip, so now im gona take the suv and get a new plug i think this is the problem. I think its plug number 5, 2nd to last one on that side.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Dumb idea to drive with open headers in the first place. That's an easy way to toast your O2's. I'd be glad if you don't need new ones.

Black98Z28

iTrader: (8)

i had to drive one day, to work, from work to the shop, thats it, i didnt even get on it. The o2's are fine and the car is running perfect.

Black98Z28

iTrader: (8)

actually i did get on it once LOL

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Glad to hear it's doin well and no big problems.

Black98Z28

iTrader: (8)

well the new plug fixed the popping, last night i was driving around and the car wants to bog and when i get on it a bit i notice shes dumping quite a bit of fuel out back, is this cause of the o2 i replaced? the damn thing might not be in all the way cause it was cross threaded...

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

The running rich is likely due to the header install, most of the time it'll run rich, but after about 200 miles the PCM will learn what the new afr should be.
It could be the sensor not in all the way, but it also could be just because of the headers (but I'd think you'd get another code if it was the sensor) try taking the o2 out and cleaning up the threads with a tap (you'll likely need a new o2 depending on how bad the threads are)

wicked z28

iTrader: (9)

Make Sure The O2 Are Grounded Right On The Block It Sounds Like An O2 Sensor Problem To Me If All Your Spark Plugs And Wires Are Right

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

If you're not throwing a code, I'd say that's a good thing. And believe it or not you do need a tune after header install. The A/f may work itself out a bit, but why would you want the car to run sub-optimal after spending all the time and money on headers? Not sure if you were planning on a tune, but it needs it and sounds like it needs to happen soon.

sunsetorangessls1

i'd see what codes your throwing, seen your check engine light on in the vid. I know when i inst. my pacesetter's about 30 miles down the road i thru a code for "lazy 02's". I switched them out from the ones that were in the rear and so far so good. The ones that went bad only had 10 thousand miles on them
J