"RACE" Alternator Bracket
09-16-2006, 02:23 PM
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"RACE" Alternator Bracket Who else makes one of these besides BMR?? I just can't see paying $130 bucks for BMRs bracket. Its $145 after shipping!! Does Billingsley or anyone else make one thats cheaper? I might end up just making my own, but I'm curious to see if there are anymore out there..
09-23-2006, 05:46 PM
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you have a manual rack? and electric wp? if so. pewterSS on the board had a set up in his ls1 that was pretty nice. altinator only off of crank. he might have some pics floatin around that he could help out with.
09-23-2006, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by flyinglow57
you have a manual rack? and electric wp? if so. pewterSS on the board had a set up in his ls1 that was pretty nice. altinator only off of crank. he might have some pics floatin around that he could help out with.
You are correct.. No power steering, no a/c, and electric "race" water pump.. I don't want to buy the BMR bracket because I will have to drill and tap the block for it to work correctly. I think I could still use it without drilling the hole, but if I'm gonna pay $130 for it I want to use it like I'm suppose to.
09-24-2006, 09:36 AM
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you can use the stock alternator bracket. there are a few threads that describe how to use it. it requires a small amount of grinding, but works great.
09-24-2006, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 383ss
you can use the stock alternator bracket. there are a few threads that describe how to use it. it requires a small amount of grinding, but works great.
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09-24-2006, 11:12 PM
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Ok after further review I think the stock bracket will work perfectly.. I just need to get a spacer to come off the block and everything should just bolt right up. I think I can get by without it being adjustable, but if not it should be really easy to make a small adjustable u-shaped bracket.
09-25-2006, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom the roofer
I have a pic of mine. Click the link in my sig and it's under modified tensioner pully.
Im a bo-bo...
09-25-2006, 06:25 PM
#13
There is a thread that explains the whole procedure step by step but search will not bring it up.
This is the best pic I could get without taking everyting apart and I don't have time for that but I did go out and take the belt off and take a pic. I'm ready to put the car on the trailer.
Anyway, I'll do the best I can.
There are two bolt holes in the tensioner pully bracket. You can see in the pic I used the bolt hole to the left and the bolt hole to the right is not used.
Set the tensioner pully bracket in position behind the bolt hole in the alternater bracket that was once used for the idler pully as shown in the pic above. Put the bolt thru the 2 holes mentioned above. DO NO TIGHTEN the bolt at this point.
Let the tensioner pully rest on the alternater bracket and you will see the area on the tensioner pully that will need to be removed, ground off for clearance. That will take about 15 minutes or so its no big deal. Grind enough off so the right bolt hole area of the tensioner pully rests squarely on the alternater bracket. Tighten the bolt in the idler pully hole.
Once you find the right belt size, Mine is a 37" belt with my crank pully, put the belt on. Now you will see the belt is going to rub on the lower long bolt head that holds the altenater in place. Take the belt back off and grind one side of the bolt off till it doesn't rub anymore. You can see this bolt in the pic.
Thats it your done. The tension on the belt holds the tensionor pully in place so you only need one bolt.
Good luck
This is the best pic I could get without taking everyting apart and I don't have time for that but I did go out and take the belt off and take a pic. I'm ready to put the car on the trailer.
Anyway, I'll do the best I can.
There are two bolt holes in the tensioner pully bracket. You can see in the pic I used the bolt hole to the left and the bolt hole to the right is not used.
Set the tensioner pully bracket in position behind the bolt hole in the alternater bracket that was once used for the idler pully as shown in the pic above. Put the bolt thru the 2 holes mentioned above. DO NO TIGHTEN the bolt at this point.
Let the tensioner pully rest on the alternater bracket and you will see the area on the tensioner pully that will need to be removed, ground off for clearance. That will take about 15 minutes or so its no big deal. Grind enough off so the right bolt hole area of the tensioner pully rests squarely on the alternater bracket. Tighten the bolt in the idler pully hole.
Once you find the right belt size, Mine is a 37" belt with my crank pully, put the belt on. Now you will see the belt is going to rub on the lower long bolt head that holds the altenater in place. Take the belt back off and grind one side of the bolt off till it doesn't rub anymore. You can see this bolt in the pic.
Thats it your done. The tension on the belt holds the tensionor pully in place so you only need one bolt.
Good luck
Last edited by Tom the roofer; 09-25-2006 at 07:45 PM.
09-25-2006, 06:44 PM
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I'm not gonna use that 3-point bracket that you are showing in the pic. I'm gonna use that small one that is on the back of the alternator. There is a bolt hole on the driver side of the block just under the heads that the small stock bracket will bolt to. Then I'm gonna buy some spacers to go between the front two holes on the alternator and the block and just bolt it directly to the block.
10-25-2006, 10:49 PM
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Btw, I just said to hell with it and mounted the alternator directly to the block with 2 bolts and used some spacers that I made to get everything to line up. I did not use the little "L" shaped bracket that bolts to the corner of the block. I used a 30 1/8 belt and it worked great.
