ws649er

plz don't say "take it to the track," b/c i'm going to eventually but i've just been really busy with school lately..with that said, what do you guys think a 2.73'd A4, 98 trans am would run in the 1/4 with a cutout, filter and lid on new street tires (at close to sea level)? thanks. i'll let you kno my times when i do finally make it up there.

thunderstruck

iTrader: (15)

i would guess 13.4-13.6 w/ a 2.0 60' time

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

ya id say prob 13.8 just bc of the 2.73's are horrible and i also say 2.2 60' time.

ws649er

as horrible as 2.73's are, isn't 13.8 more typical of a bone stock time for those?

jpat1023

Yes, 13.8 is a shitty time even for a bone stock car.

I say 13.3 w/ a 2.0 60'. Good Luck!

99SSinOC

iTrader: (4)

13.2-13.5 @ 103 w/ 2.1 60 ft.

AllShowNoGo

Bone stock i ran a 13.8 @ 101 w/ a 2.2 60' Also it was the hottest and most humid day of the year. So i think you should be atleast 13.5 or quicker. But remember, its all in the 60'.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

13.4-13.5 101ish. Sea level will help you out quite a bit.. but a stock A4 won't. But thats where the modding comes into play.

ws649er

you think a 3400 stall has any chance of putting me into the 12's? i'm debating between that and some new gears next.

black00TA

iTrader: (3)

your about 13.5 right now with around 2.0 60ft and trapin around 104mph

a 3400 stall with some drag radials will put you into the 12's almost certainly imho.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

Ok I Bought The Car Changed The Oil Went To The Track Mine Is Also A 98 A4 Then It Had 2.73s They Suck By The Way I Race At Bristol Dragway In Tn Its Not Even Close To Sea Level I Ran 2 14.70s And Let The Car Cool Off And Ran A 14.50 My 60ft Was A 2.10 The Car Was In Bad Need Of A Tune Up Also. Id Guess 13.90 To14.20 You Should Run Somthin Around That

98ta A4
3.73s
Pp3
Slp Lid
K&n
Ported Maf&tb
Tb Bypass
Fra
Flowmaster Catback

AllShowNoGo

14.70??? lol my brothers 1 ton dually could run with you. You'll for sure be in the 13's if you hit 14's sell that car and buy a new one.

thunderstruck

iTrader: (15)

dont debate, go converter first. it will help you out the most

ws649er

i think i've decided on the fuddle 3400 as an xmas gift to myself haha,, now i'm just lookin for the cheapest place for an install/tranny cooler. i kno my car at least runs 13's b/c i've put lengths on srt-4's/01 cobras which are both capable of 13's stock.

onebadblackz

iTrader: (1)

what would a stock WS6 run

300bhp/ton

Same as any other LS1. If you don't know what I mean, use the SEARCH

300bhp/ton

Go for a stall.

Only do gears when:

a) You've busted the 10 bolt and are upgrading to a 12 bolt/9"
b) you are doing a cam swap where you need different gears


The 2.73's really aren't as bad as man think. For high speed and roll racing they are actually IMO way better than the 3.23's.

BTW - I'm not certain of the current state of play, but I know recently there have been quite a few issues with FUddle. I'd do some research in the auto tranny forum before parting with any cash.

Also I'd be tempted to not get anything less than a 3600rpm stall. It shouldn't affect normal driveability too much but will be a better match if you ever get a cam. 4000rpm stalls are often a little OTT for most people.

ncarlson

went to track < byron il. > this last sunday . 1st pass 13.51 101 .has lid and 3.23 gears . 2nd pass . tires spinning go into 2nd. to late for third run. 98 5.7 3.23 a4 has 88000 miles . with you haveing 2.73 and stock stall maybe 13.70. thats what my son ran in his 2000 when it was stock.

darrensls1

Lid & cutout near sea level should be good for at least 13.5 @ 103. Maybe even a little better


I think you're overstating that just a little. Both gears pull hard on the highway with the 2.73's being able to hold third gear longer. But with the stock 26" tires 3.23's holds third till 142 mph. If the race isn't over by 142 then god help you.

300bhp/ton

It's not that, I mean yeah the 2.73's will allow you to bang the 158mph speed limiter with still a few hundre rpms left in the rpm range. So top speed in gear is quite dramtically different.

But 3.23's are IMO good for racing from a dig, as they will promote better ingear accelaration. The down side, is they leave the engine in too many dead spots for roll racing. There's link in my sig to a gear calculator, you can see all the dead spots real easy.

Such as racing from a 30-35mph roll. With 3.23's the car will NOT shift to 1st because it would be screaming it's nuts off. Yet you are way too low in the rpms for 2nd. This is the dreaded Fbody body "dead spot" so many speak off. And why even stock sn95 Stangs can get the jump under such conditions.

With 2.73's you are fine all the way up to 40mph and it will still kick down to 1st and bring you right in at 4400rpm (PEAK torque). So ~35mph is a 'sweet spot' for roll racing in a 2.73's geared car. As well as being a sensible speed to start from. Any slower and you might as well go from a dig.

For higher speed the 3.23's again have the dead spot not wanting to drop to 2nd but being again too low in the rpms. The 2.73's are less affected as the speed where it will kick down is more appropriate for roll racing.

3.42 is a better as it still offer good terminal speed in gear (more so if you up the rpm limit to 6500rpm) but has better in gear accelaration. It also doesn't suffer the same dead spots as 3.23's. There is still one dead spot but it's not as bad, and you just have to learn not to race from that particular speed.

3.73's have even less trouble with dead spots, as they are non existant, but these gears loose out in terminal speed and for high speed use they will ultimatley limit the cars potential. But from a dig racing over the 1/4 mile they are very ideal.