brad21

I have a 99 t/a about to purchase a sts turbo kit, and would like some info on what is a good set of subframe connectors? i looked a competition eng. but wasnt to pleased,also what anyone thinks about the sts kit?

eLTwerker

I don't know much about turbos, but the STS is a rear mounted kit. Not quite as much power available as a front mount. Also, it hang LOW. Ground clearance is also an issue sometimes with boxed SFCs. I would suggest a weld in tubular SFC. BMR, UMI, Spohn all seem to be well-respected SFCs. I have tubuar weld in BMR SFCs. I'm happy with it. Some don't think they really do much, though. It's debatable. Talk to Sam Strano in the braking and handling section or do a search, you'll find LOTS of info. Good luck!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I've been very happy with my boxed SLP SFCs. Had 'em on two 4th gens now, makes a big difference in how the car feels going into corners and over bumps.

Ground clearance with these SFCs will not be an issue at all if you are still at stock ride height.

brad21

thanks for info

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

i made 503rwhp with only 5.5-6psi..... and i've spent less than a front mount has

as far as it hanging low...... check out trtturbo.com and go under the LS1 page, the red camaro on the left top is mine. theres about a foot of clearance between the ground and the turbo. the LOWEST point of the whole turbo kit is the charge pipe underneath the K member

and as for getting SFC for the STS kit, so far no dice on that. chromoly sells some for $600. not really worth it for the money. you could use most of that money to buy a FMIC and run more boost than 5psi safely. plus you will need the matching fuel too

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

and i still have another 1.5-2psi left(about another 35-40rwhp), but i dont know if i want my LS1 to be in the area where the bottom end decides to give, so i kept it at where its at and i still manage to rape people around here.

eLTwerker

You've got very good numbers. Yours doesn't hang too low. I wouldn't say a foot from the ground, hell our bumpers are barely a foot off the ground. I stand by the statement though, rear mounted turbos, all things being equal, won't make quite as much power as a front mount. It spools then has to travel around bends all the way to the front of the car, whereas a front mount blows directly into the throttle body. Check out the link, that hangs WAY too low for my taste. I had a y pipe that didn't even hang that low and it would bang everything. Couldn't go over 30 on city roads here in New Orleans. If I was gonna spend all that $$, I'd get a front mounted system. More power on the table plus no ground clearance issues. No offense TEXAS, that's just how I see it. All things aside, you could end up with numbers and ground clearance like TEX and be big pimpin!
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...17_70_full.jpg

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

the double diamonds are a good setup....dont like the straight bar ones that much

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I thought that the STS piping on the drivers side acted like a subframe connector. I would get a pattern for the passenger side and just get a welding shop to make one for that side. A friend of mine did that and he got them to make it for $40. They used boxed steel to make it.

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

+1 Strongest setup in my opinion.

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

W/ all due respect RPM WS6...I had the SLPs and I did have clearance issues. My car is only 3/4" lower (hose mod/lower perch). I drug them on some awkward driveways.

I actually am not sold on our cars needing SFCs. But this is a much debated opinion only issue as ther isn't much proof one way or another.

That said, if I were to put SFCs on again, I would get UMI 3pts. They tuck up nice and attatch to both sides of the LCA pocket. Plus UMIs customer support is outstanding!!

trans2000am

iTrader: (49)

dont get sfc wont work with sts their one driver pipe goes where the sfc goes so you would have to remove it,it acts like a sfc now on the passenger side you could put a sfc thats what i did. about the sts kit upgrade the kit,to atleast 67mm if you have the money get the 76mm, get the meth kit and also an intercooler,fuel pump,and injectors. its gonna cost alot of money in the long run so see what you want to spend and double it. if you dont have that kidn of money then just go head and cam then get some spray.

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

having a rear mount turbo doesnt cause you to loose hp, it just cause it to lag more than the front mount set up. and out of the box with my FMIC and matching fuel on stock motor, my car made 472/501 my friend on 7.5 psi. i've seen front mounts make the same. the only difference is that they get their boost faster than me, but i race on the highway mainly and it doesnt really matter that much

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

as a matter of fact, i still have enough psi left to make 550rwhp and i will have spent less then a front mount and some front mounts have to sacrife relocating the battery or removing the A/C and or both, i have all of that intact from the factory. and i spent less

300bhp/ton

I'd go for some weld in boxed SFC's. They will offer the best performance and can be used to jack the car on. I like UMI Performance but BMR/Spohn also sell them.

As for the STS kit, well make sure you REALLY do your research first and make sure you know what you want and what to expect from it.

In essence a rear turbo is a flawed design. I mean do you see any production cars or works competition vehicles running them?

The way I see it is an STS setup can offer two types of peroformance:

1. Low boost street setup. You'll never make headline HP numbers but will evidently make good power. Driveability will be slightly hampered as LAG will be a major issue (if you want I'll expand on what I mean by LAG).

2. A full out strip setup, big boost and lots of power but of no use with little driveability on the street. Again this is down to LAG.

Each time I research the STS I always come to the same conclusion:

Buy a Procharger or front mount!

Neither cost particulary more money and will IMO be better street setups with more potential.

An STS with 5-6psi is probably about the limit I'd look at and that should be high 400's to low/mid 500rwhp depending on exact setup.

But remember in most cases a nice h/c setup (maybe with a 75 shot on top) will often get you as much or more power for less money.

RESEARCH and make you own decision on whether its the best route for you or not.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I have the STS kit, and like all FI setups, it has its limitations. Some of heat energy is lost due to the location of the turbine. This can be partially mitigated by wrapping the pipes. You can find this in the FI section.
Second, the stock hanger for the turbo makes it hang too low. This can be fixed. However, it should not be used on a lowered car.
Third, the charge pipe going to the intake runs where the SFC connector should go on the driver's side. One company makes a set of SFCs that will work, but they got greedy and only make them out of chromoly, for around $600, which is insane. STS claims that the charge pipe acts as a SFC, but this is a stupid claim and merely a cop out. If you sat a SFC next to the charge pipe, you would understand. However, having just the passenger's side is a huge improvement over having nothing. Boxed SFCs hang lower and are not really required unless this is a race-only car. Tubular ones tuck up nicely and offer similar strength. I like the UMI 3 point for an LS1 STS car.
As far as boost levels, there is a lot of misinformation in this thread. Go to EPPs site and read up on their STS installs and boost/power levels.
I went STS because I don't want any extra stuff in what is already a crowded engine compartment.
And there is virtually no, repeat no, lag. Just another piece of misinformation floating about. https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/662620-new-dyno-numbers-sts.html

greysteel_M6

iTrader: (5)

I agree, double diamonds are the best setup but you're going to lose some ground clearance, IMO boxed would be sufficient and cheaper with no loss of gc.

300bhp/ton

I would have to disagree with this as ALL turbo setups suffer LAG unless they are running an ALS (anti-lag system) which I haven't seen out side of rally and circuit racers.

The location of the turbo means greater LG time after stall periods, in terms of driveability this is a major bug bear and will be noticable.

EDIT: that link you provided doesn't seem to contain any info about lag what so ever.

brad21

i am going with the sts kit because i dont wanna have to move my battery to the truck or lose my ac.Hey koolaid kid do you have a link to the sfc you are talking about.

SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

Yeah you really don't want to have to put the battery in an alternate vehicle. Could be quite a pain.