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Strano, I need your advice

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Old 05-21-2007, 12:46 AM
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Default Strano, I need your advice

My car doesnt feel like it did before.

Okay. Before I had your 35 mm swaybar, 21mm rear swaybar, strano springs. Hotchkiss PHB poly, Koni shocks. Also I have a poly trans mount and put a poly bushing in my stock T/A.

I havent installed my new Torque Arm or SFC yet.

I have an Aluminum flywheel, LS7 clutch, B&M shifter. Pacesetter ceramic coated LTs, ORY, SLP LM1 with dynomax bullet. SLP lid, smooth bellows, K&N. APC race seat with 5 pt harness, Spohn LCA, Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley.

With these mods the car felt fine after I installed your suspension components. I handles much better, by having reduced body roll. quicker cornering speeds, the car felt more responsive. the ride was slightly stiffer, but felt like in better control. Nose dive was reduced when I braked and when I got on the throttle the car hpped less. Just a great , tight suspension.

Now that I put in my Moser 12 bolt trutrac with 3.73s , PST aluminum driveshaft, INSTALLED REAR SUSPENSION BACK ON (notice in all caps because I think this can be a reason), and Mickey Thompson ET street radial tires and new front tires. the car feels loose. The rearend doesnt feel stable.

I had a vibration @ 60-70 mph before, but after I changed my tires it went away. It was bald spots in the front tires from hard braking @ high speeds (i have hawk pads).

The car feels like it wanders and I did get an alignment after my tires.

So Im unsure why it doesnt feel like it used to. My cae also makes noise from the new rear rotor and my e brake sucks. I need to adjust the cable I guess and maybe that will also reduce the rotor noise somehow? Anyways, just mentioning that if it can have something to do with it..

any input please...
Old 05-21-2007, 12:48 AM
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Sorry I think I mentioned everything, there is unbearable background noise that is causing me to lose concentration . I think that is all.
Old 05-21-2007, 11:11 AM
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Do you think it has something to do with the addition of a hell of a lot more unsprung weight (the 12-bolt) along with drag oriented tires that have soft sidewalls????????

I don't know how many times I've said suspensions are packages and the pieces have to fit well with each other AND the demands you want from the car. You just put on items that are in way handling oriented (and are now seeing the change).
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Do you think it has something to do with the addition of a hell of a lot more unsprung weight (the 12-bolt) along with drag oriented tires that have soft sidewalls????????

I don't know how many times I've said suspensions are packages and the pieces have to fit well with each other AND the demands you want from the car. You just put on items that are in way handling oriented (and are now seeing the change).
I think the 12 bolt has more unsprung weight, yes and I think the tires have softer sidewalls. but the feeling is tremendous. It should be such a big difference from these things. Im not talking about handling @ high speed sornering, etc. Im talkking about when I change my lane normally, the car feels way more unstable. and how would I change my unprung weight because of this?
Old 05-21-2007, 12:27 PM
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Your car should feel different than it did before you put on all the mods. I can imagine that ET street radials would be a bit unstable. What was your original gear before, 3.42? You have an aluminum flywheel for a drag racing setup? That must suck to launch on.

I think if you drove around on a more streetable tire like Nitto 555r, your car would feel better in lane changes
Old 05-21-2007, 12:42 PM
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Put your old wheels and tires on, and I bet it gets back to where it was. You are trying to drive around on a tire with a drag racing purpose. Can you? You can, hell, I could drive on my Hoosier racing tires meant only for autox. The are DOT legal and have "tread", but I don't, because they really aren't street tires. They ride very hard and hurt my wrists on the road because they pull so hard through ruts. They are fast where they are meant to be, in an autox. Your tires are the same way, but drag racing oriented instead, which is just the opposite of my Hoosiers. But still far away from a true performance street tire.
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:47 PM
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I ran drag radials on my stock setup and lost ALOT of control, the wear and tire pressure aren't the same. Drag Radials really aren't ment to be driven on
Old 05-21-2007, 01:33 PM
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I agree, switch back to good street tires. Tires can be a huge difference. Espeically when your using things not as they was designed to do.
Old 05-21-2007, 03:39 PM
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Couldn't the rear control arm angles cause this problem if the angles with the new axle are way different I'm not sure if the Moser has the same LCA bracket height.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Greggy
Couldn't the rear control arm angles cause this problem if the angles with the new axle are way different I'm not sure if the Moser has the same LCA bracket height.
I'm not expert, but I'd say no way.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Greggy
Couldn't the rear control arm angles cause this problem if the angles with the new axle are way different I'm not sure if the Moser has the same LCA bracket height.
I really think because of the new 12 bolt the geometry of some things have changed and this is why I think the car feels sloppy.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by z28bryan
Your car should feel different than it did before you put on all the mods. I can imagine that ET street radials would be a bit unstable. What was your original gear before, 3.42? You have an aluminum flywheel for a drag racing setup? That must suck to launch on.

I think if you drove around on a more streetable tire like Nitto 555r, your car would feel better in lane changes

Yes they were 3.42s.

Aluminum flywheel, it isnt a drag racing car only. Its adaily driver and I take it rad raciing also. But I also drag race it.

Yes the Nittos felt way better. tyhe Mickey Thomposns launch better, but thats about it. I should just stick to a pair of slicks to use on dragstrip days only.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:35 PM
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Ok then, but I think it's the tires more than anything. And the car would only be messed up if the LCA's were suddenly way tail-down, and I can pretty much guarantee that they aren't.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Put your old wheels and tires on, and I bet it gets back to where it was. You are trying to drive around on a tire with a drag racing purpose. Can you? You can, hell, I could drive on my Hoosier racing tires meant only for autox. The are DOT legal and have "tread", but I don't, because they really aren't street tires. They ride very hard and hurt my wrists on the road because they pull so hard through ruts. They are fast where they are meant to be, in an autox. Your tires are the same way, but drag racing oriented instead, which is just the opposite of my Hoosiers. But still far away from a true performance street tire.
I dont have the old tires with me. Im sure thats part of the reason, but I believe the new 12 bolt is a reason for the geometry of my suspension chaning and feeling awkward.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
I dont have the old tires with me. Im sure thats part of the reason, but I believe the new 12 bolt is a reason for the geometry of my suspension chaning and feeling awkward.
I don't think it would have changed it much...pretty much the only thing that seems to change is the spring perches sitting a bit higher. LCAs are pretty much in the same spot, as are the panhard rod mounting point and shock mounting points. Wouldn't be a bolt-in otherwise.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:42 PM
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Again you are assuming. You know the tires are different, and drag biased. You don't know the LCA's angles are messed up. Which is more likely? The tires. The rear was build for a F-body and that includes the mounts for the LCA's. I don't deal a lot with aftermarket rear housings, but I'm sure you'll find that your control arm angles are slightly nose-down because of the lowering, which makes the car MORE stable, not less.

That's my advice/opinion.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Again you are assuming. You know the tires are different, and drag biased. You don't know the LCA's angles are messed up. Which is more likely? The tires. The rear was build for a F-body and that includes the mounts for the LCA's. I don't deal a lot with aftermarket rear housings, but I'm sure you'll find that your control arm angles are slightly nose-down because of the lowering, which makes the car MORE stable, not less.

That's my advice/opinion.

they are still radials though.

so what should I do to stabilize the car again? is my only solution new tires?
Old 05-21-2007, 05:50 PM
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So what if they are still radials? So are 44" Super Swampers. If the only difference between tires was radail vs. bias, you wouldn't have drag tires, racing slicks, winter tires, etc.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
So what if they are still radials? So are 44" Super Swampers. If the only difference between tires was radail vs. bias, you wouldn't have drag tires, racing slicks, winter tires, etc.
Okay, well stilll I would think they have the same aspect ratio and they shouldnt be ahuge difference as nittos.

anwways, as I said before. what do you think could help me correct this besides new tires.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:56 PM
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New tires. More air might help a little (having no idea what you are running now for pressure.
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