Home porting a FAST..Search is down.
#1
Home porting a FAST..Search is down.
Any how -to guides on how to succesfully port your own FAST?
The Navy trusts me to repair advanced composites on F-18's..& I can actully install the manifold by myself..So I have some mechanical skills.
Bottom line..I'd like to save myself 300-500 bux & maybe validate my ninja skills in the process..But not at the expense of a $700 manifold.
If someone cares enough to document the process,maybe this can become a sticky.
The Navy trusts me to repair advanced composites on F-18's..& I can actully install the manifold by myself..So I have some mechanical skills.
Bottom line..I'd like to save myself 300-500 bux & maybe validate my ninja skills in the process..But not at the expense of a $700 manifold.
If someone cares enough to document the process,maybe this can become a sticky.
#4
If you have the flowbench, tools, time and knowledge then do it yourself. I imagine it only takes Tony Momo about an hour to port one...but he has many hours testing them and has probably FUBARed quite a few in the process of learning. You aren't paying for the porting...you are paying for the knowledge of exactly where to port that was gained through trial and error.
Galen
Galen
#6
Originally Posted by Galen
If you have the flowbench, tools, time and knowledge then do it yourself. I imagine it only takes Tony Momo about an hour to port one...but he has many hours testing them and has probably FUBARed quite a few in the process of learning. You aren't paying for the porting...you are paying for the knowledge of exactly where to port that was gained through trial and error.
Galen
Galen
Tony uses a flowbench to port a FAST?
I've been told it's simply a matter of opening up the ports to the witness marks on the intake ports on the heads.
If was something as intricate that it required a flowbench,why just not put it on a CNC machine & treat it like a cylinder head?
No..I don't want to reinvent the wheel..I was hoping for pictures & suggestions on the tools needed to complete the job.
Now if it's some kind of anchient Chinese secret & folks that make money doing this process want to build their empires by keeping it a black art,I suppose I understand..Ya gotta pay the bills somehow.
Last edited by BYE RICE; 07-23-2007 at 06:23 PM.
#7
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If I remember correctly someone had a how-to on it not to long ago. I can't get the search to work right now so you might give it a try.
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#10
Originally Posted by BYE RICE
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This is just from what I've read but..
There are two real places that get "ported" on this intake.
The runner ridge pretty much everyone does but it has really never been proven to yield substantial gains. Unless I missed it in the reading.
I did it, just cause I read everybody did it, and it took me quite some time.
If you have a Dremel with the long flex attachment you'll need that, and the 160 grit sanding drum.
Then a decent collection of sanding grits, 150, 240, 400, etc... depending on how smooth you want it.
Hand/finger sanding leaves less potential for major error and gouging, but takes alot longer.
What I did was grind off most with the Dremel and then finish up with hand sanding, but that's pretty much common sense.
Take your time and be careful and you'll be all right I think, you sound like your prob not a gorilla hands type of guy.
The other porting is port matching to the heads.
That's the tough one, and there has been debate on weather or not you should try it in-experienced, as you could potentially kill power VS leaving it stock, by doing it wrong.
That one you may have to search more on, TonyMamo has provided alot of good commentary in the threads that discuss that, so it would be worth your time to filter through those before you try it.
There are two real places that get "ported" on this intake.
The runner ridge pretty much everyone does but it has really never been proven to yield substantial gains. Unless I missed it in the reading.
I did it, just cause I read everybody did it, and it took me quite some time.
If you have a Dremel with the long flex attachment you'll need that, and the 160 grit sanding drum.
Then a decent collection of sanding grits, 150, 240, 400, etc... depending on how smooth you want it.
Hand/finger sanding leaves less potential for major error and gouging, but takes alot longer.
What I did was grind off most with the Dremel and then finish up with hand sanding, but that's pretty much common sense.
Take your time and be careful and you'll be all right I think, you sound like your prob not a gorilla hands type of guy.
The other porting is port matching to the heads.
That's the tough one, and there has been debate on weather or not you should try it in-experienced, as you could potentially kill power VS leaving it stock, by doing it wrong.
That one you may have to search more on, TonyMamo has provided alot of good commentary in the threads that discuss that, so it would be worth your time to filter through those before you try it.
#13
That's what she said...
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I marked my ports with an inside scribe, then port matched them with a die-grinder and rotary file. Finished with a straight file and sand paper to clean up. Pretty easy, but no before/after. GO SLOW. You can always take off more, but you can't put it back on.
Well....... maybe YOU can...
Well....... maybe YOU can...