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How to port a Fast 90 intake

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Old 07-08-2007, 09:04 PM
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Default How to port a Fast 90 intake(with dyno graph)

here are some pics of the stock runners of a fast lsx intake.

As you can see in the pics below there is a fairly large "wedge" protruding into the bottom of the runner.The idea is to remove this wedge.This may sound and look fairly easy but its not as simple as it looks.Simply removing this material will not do the trick,as the runner wall will not be straight and flat.If you dont wear a mask or resperator while doing this you wont be feeling very good for a couple of days.
Attached Thumbnails How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic010.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic005.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic004.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic012.jpg  

Last edited by redtail2426; 08-14-2007 at 08:50 PM.
Old 07-08-2007, 09:17 PM
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what i use is a mini die grinder with a long sanding roll,the long roll will help to keep the runner walls straight and flat as you remove material.
Attached Thumbnails How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic030.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic015.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic018.jpg  
Old 07-08-2007, 09:20 PM
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the lightweight plastic material used will come off pretty quickly,so if you dont have a steady hand or a good grinder then dont attempt it.here is a pic after removing some of the "wedge",
Attached Thumbnails How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic021.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic022.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic027.jpg  
Old 07-08-2007, 09:25 PM
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After i just about completely removed this "wedge" i then started the tricky part of straightening the runner wall.This takes a little patience.Simply move back and forth in the runner slowly using the long sanding roll until the runner wall is very straight.here are a couple pics in the process of straightening the wall.As you can see there is a little hump still left over just behind where the wedge was.
Attached Thumbnails How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic031.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic026.jpg  
Old 07-08-2007, 09:28 PM
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when your all done you should have a very straight runner like so.
Attached Thumbnails How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic044.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic035.jpg   How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic036.jpg  
Old 07-08-2007, 09:30 PM
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The other side of the runner just takes a little blending where the bottom and inner piece of the intake meet up.the floor of the runner gets the same type of blending.in this pic you can see the area that i started.
Attached Thumbnails How to port a Fast 90 intake-pic023.jpg  

Last edited by redtail2426; 07-09-2007 at 02:12 PM.
Old 07-08-2007, 09:35 PM
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After doing all of this the runner exit(where it meets up to the head port)didnt change in size at all,so matching the fast runners up to the head runners will still have to be done if necessary.This is how i ported my fast intake and figured it has to help,i will find out in the near future when i dyno how much power i pick up from the install of my ported fast.Hope this helps others that are the "do it yourselfers".The rest of the runner looks pretty good and shouldnt have to be touched.The throttle body entry may need a little clean up to match whatever throttle body you use.My nick williams lines up pretty good.
Old 07-09-2007, 08:26 AM
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Great write up, thanks. Any chance you'll have before and after numbers?
Old 07-09-2007, 08:41 AM
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Nice write-up!

Originally Posted by redtail2426
After doing all of this the runner exit(where it meets up to the head port)didnt change in size at all,so matching the fast runners up to the head runners will still have to be done if necessary.
Is this what people mean by "port matching?"
Old 07-09-2007, 09:57 AM
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Good job
Old 07-09-2007, 10:20 AM
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Looks great. Does anyone take the intake apart and work on anything in the underside of the middle piece?
Old 07-09-2007, 10:21 AM
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That looks good, but to me its worth the peace of mind of not grinding on my $1000 investment to just send it to Ron at Vengeance and then just bolt it on.
Old 07-09-2007, 02:09 PM
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yes port matching is simply matching up the intake runners with the head runners.I took the middle piece out to see everything clearly and it doesnt look like the plenum area needs any work,there is not much material to work with in there anyway.Thanks for checking it out and its not for everyone.If you have the tools and confidence then go for it.Ron does port these for a pretty fair price too but for some people porting can be a lot of fun.
Old 07-09-2007, 02:21 PM
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Definitely. I wish I had the guts to try it, but didn't have the extra cash to pay for any of my mistakes. Great job!
Old 07-09-2007, 02:31 PM
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Good write up.
Old 07-09-2007, 02:58 PM
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Nice! If this turns out to be the secret to porting a F.A.S.T. and you gain some HP. I'm sure we all want to know how much will you charge if we are scared of ruining our stock fast intakes???...Hope not as much as some of our sponsers! LOL. If you're a SU fan, maybe i can get the "SU" discount for being a SU football alum JK.
Old 07-09-2007, 03:09 PM
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all i can say is i put down about an average of 416-418 rwhp and about 385 rwtq right now..When i go and redyno it will be after the ported fast and nick williams throttle body.If i can pick up 20 rwhp and crank out an average of 440 then i will be happy.
Old 07-09-2007, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by redtail2426
all i can say is i put down about an average of 416-418 rwhp and about 385 rwtq right now..When i go and redyno it will be after the ported fast and nick williams throttle body.If i can pick up 20 rwhp and crank out an average of 440 then i will be happy.
I hear ya man...let us know when you throw it back on the dyno and get some results!!!
Old 07-09-2007, 09:14 PM
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What would you use to fill in the grooves along the side walls? Would jb weld work? Is it even worth it?
Old 07-09-2007, 10:59 PM
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Really good write up!


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