lightemupls1

custom grind 230/236 112lsa .581/.590 is this a good cam for a stock 2000 ws6 m6 with a header swap. i have the patriot dual valve spring kit going in, and hardened pushrods. this will be an open header set up with a custom tune as well. will the idle be to choppy, or a mediocre lope? what kind of power should i expect to the wheels?

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

Yes that cam will have a pretty nice lope to it by the looks of the lift and duration and LSA.

you will apprx have 9* of overlap on that cam which is pretty good and wont be shaking the car or anything but it will be noticeable. .

Just for reference, the MS4 has 17.5* of overlap on a 11.5 LSA. ..

JPH

iTrader: (2)

that cam would like more supporting mods to work together better with your combo, and more static compression in the engine also. Like heads, intake, t/b, bolt ons, etc.... Expect gains after 3300k+ and pulling to 6400k. Power wise, you should put down 385+rwhp easy.

lightemupls1

yeah i want to do the stuff jph said but later on. i have the money now for the cam and headers so i wanted to get the bigger stuff outta the way 1st.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

The cam will like nitrous BTW .. You will definitely need a free flowing exhaust system including LT's. Also im not for sure but go ahead and get an LS6 intake.

Alan@XHP

I would say 375-380 HP. The cam is not that radical. It's going to sound good. If I were you I would get some LT headers, ported LS6 heads, and a LS6 manifold.

lightemupls1

yeah i have long tube headers being swapped along with the cam. looks like for now i will be going with no cats or muffler so that should certainly free up the exhaust. as for intake i will do later down the road, i'm running, no ran out of money about $1000 dollars ago.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

youre really choking this cam and limiting the power you can make by not doing your supporting mods first

lightemupls1

so you would do the cam and header swap last? i was going to do the supporting mods after cam/header swap mostly because i can come out of my pocket to do those. the cam and header swap is running me almost $3000.00. most of the other mods i know i can do myself and aren't nearly as expensive.

FTW

I believe what he's saying is wait till you get the rest of your supporting mods before putting the cam in..

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Saet with the bolt ons first then put the cam in.

Top Fuel

iTrader: (8)

you're going to run open headers? have fun with that

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

get all your bolt ons like stated then get the cam and get it tuned once and call it a day...that sounds like a really good cam...i would stay away from open headers if it is going to be street driven just get a cutout if you like the sounds and performance...

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

headers are a bolt on. you need all the little things:

lid
headers
cat-back
UD pulley maybe?
LS6 intake manifold
P&P TB

1badA3Z

iTrader: (58)

Yea do boltons then do the cam!

suburbanlife866

iTrader: (9)

I would definately AT LEAST suggest an LS6 intake, port the stock TB, and a lid. Otherwise I see the cam swap being pointless.

lightemupls1

i'm not understanding this, if you do cam first or last your results will be the same in the end. the way i look at it is like this.
1. cam/header swap=370-380rwhp+supporting mods=420ish
2. all supporting mods=370-380rwhp+cam/header swap=420ish
is that kind of in the ball park?
and as far as pointless to the cam/header swap, why is making 370-380rwhp pointless? i agree ls6 intake, tb, lid and all the doo dads but the doo dads can hold off because i can do all that along the way out of my pocket. basically i wont have the money to do the cam header swap for a very long time and the supporting mods i can do on a week to week or month to month basis out of my own pocket. kind of hard for me to just come up with 2-3000.00 dollars at once.

lightemupls1

ok whats going on with the open header idea? i have a custom tuner tuning the car is that not going to be enough? i mean i wanted to put high flow cats on it but as i stated before my money has come to an end. the performance shop suggested going with high flows but said he could tune it and run fine no problem without them. this car is not a daily driver just a weekend toy.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

ok if it is just a track car that is totally fine...my dad runs open headers with bullets on the ends...make sure you at least have extensions off the headers or it will be harder to tune and most likely you will go through O2s too...also it will be hella loud to drive on the streets

to answer why everyone is telling to go bolt ons first then cam...here is the only reason why...you get a cam and maybe headers, you are going to have to get it tuned most likely $400ish...then you decide to get an ls6 intake, p&p tb, lid, FTRA (definitely a must adds at least 10hp, but that is a different thread), 25% UD pulley, maybe 85mm Maf...so what is the problem well to get the most out of all of these you are going to need another tune...which is another $400...so why pay for two tunes is the way i look at it...

that is why i tried to get every mod i wanted bolt on before i put the cam in and got it tuned...just my take on it...

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

Not a chance in hell that you would make 370-380 with just boltons. Expect 385-395 for all boltons plus the cam. Anything over that I would ecstatic with. Just my .02