Head cam lt1 not making NEAR estimated power.
#1
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Head cam lt1 not making NEAR estimated power.
I did heads and cam swap and didn't know what all could cuase my car to not run to it's potential. I think it's running lean up top. I don't think that really makes it suffer alot of power though.
I ran a friend in his ls1, with lid, catback, and short throw and I was right next to him. I just don't understand why the car is so slow still. I'm going to take it to get dyno'd this week. But I am looking to see if you guys have any ideas.. When I get at 5900rpm's it will miss sometimes. Like it's trying to hit rev limiter when it's set at 6500rpm's. Opti, Lean,...?
I'm just trying to figure out why the hell it's still so damn slow! lol
I ran a friend in his ls1, with lid, catback, and short throw and I was right next to him. I just don't understand why the car is so slow still. I'm going to take it to get dyno'd this week. But I am looking to see if you guys have any ideas.. When I get at 5900rpm's it will miss sometimes. Like it's trying to hit rev limiter when it's set at 6500rpm's. Opti, Lean,...?
I'm just trying to figure out why the hell it's still so damn slow! lol
#2
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It should be killing your buddy! Any messed up/burnt wires or did you crack a plug reinstalling them? Correct valve adjustment and pushrod length/timing set right, opti on right???
Im doing a similar set up and went with Delphi37#injectors Its what LE recomended to me.Im hoping for 400+rwhp with a 230/236 cam
Im doing a similar set up and went with Delphi37#injectors Its what LE recomended to me.Im hoping for 400+rwhp with a 230/236 cam
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The valve train is noisy as ****, mainly on driver side though, i have tightened them down with it running might do it again to double check. Pushrods are 7.15 length I was told that they'd work fine with setup. As far as I know all plugs are good, wires are perfect. I timed it "dot to dot" so it's in the same position it was in with the stock cam. The car vibrates alot, tuner says it's cam surge though, which makes sense. That shouldn't hurt my power though.
#6
That sucks man. You should have walked car after car on your buddy. It could be a number of things so it could be difficult to pinpoint what exactly it is causing a problem. Just double check everything you can think of.
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#8
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I say take it back to the tuner or to another one. Did you have a dyno tune? Yes, if your car is running lean it will affect your HP and how it runs especially up top at higher rpm's. Mine was suffering real bad not to long ago with the lean spike. Got her tuned just right now and it's a night and day difference. Feels much stronger up top.
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I say take it back to the tuner or to another one. Did you have a dyno tune? Yes, if your car is running lean it will affect your HP and how it runs especially up top at higher rpm's. Mine was suffering real bad not to long ago with the lean spike. Got her tuned just right now and it's a night and day difference. Feels much stronger up top.
It is a mail order tune, I emailed the guy yesterday and he assured me tune was good, but I'm thinkin he may be wrong, but who knows. I'm gonna take it to a dynojet sometime this week and see what they have to say and see what the graph shows me.. It's very frustrating to see a basically stock ls1 that I was right behind before and now it's almost as if I only getting power from the headers..
I didn't degree the cam when I put it in, I only put it on "dot to dot," I"m REALLY hoping that doesn't have anything to do with it. I DO NOT want to tear this bitch back down.
#10
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Bro, I would never do a mail order tune after a head and cam swap. Take it and have a dyno tune done and get some numbers. You gotta be curious what you are making after doing the swap! There's a ton of people that don't degree the cam and have no issues. You should be ok there.
#13
Look at the tune and ignition!
To cheer you up a bit, my stock shortblock cam was almost the same but more lift(.560/.570 and 110 LSA) and ran 11.7-11.9s consistantly with local shop ported heads that I doubt are as good as your LE2s and blowing through a little 3200 stall(was flashing around 3500).
Your combo has a lot left in it and will be an impressive street car once its dialed in to its potential
You need a logged dyno tune to see whats going on!
To cheer you up a bit, my stock shortblock cam was almost the same but more lift(.560/.570 and 110 LSA) and ran 11.7-11.9s consistantly with local shop ported heads that I doubt are as good as your LE2s and blowing through a little 3200 stall(was flashing around 3500).
Your combo has a lot left in it and will be an impressive street car once its dialed in to its potential
You need a logged dyno tune to see whats going on!
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No I don't have one installed, It honestly never even came to mind. I'll be getting one asap. They plug into the directly into the computer correct? I've read of ones that go into the computer and ones that go into the engine block but am not sure if it's the samething..
Last edited by lt1z28camaro; 11-09-2008 at 07:31 PM.
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Look at the tune and ignition!
To cheer you up a bit, my stock shortblock cam was almost the same but more lift(.560/.570 and 110 LSA) and ran 11.7-11.9s consistantly with local shop ported heads that I doubt are as good as your LE2s and blowing through a little 3200 stall(was flashing around 3500).
Your combo has a lot left in it and will be an impressive street car once its dialed in to its potential
You need a logged dyno tune to see whats going on!
To cheer you up a bit, my stock shortblock cam was almost the same but more lift(.560/.570 and 110 LSA) and ran 11.7-11.9s consistantly with local shop ported heads that I doubt are as good as your LE2s and blowing through a little 3200 stall(was flashing around 3500).
Your combo has a lot left in it and will be an impressive street car once its dialed in to its potential
You need a logged dyno tune to see whats going on!
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No I don't have one installed, It honestly never even came to mind. I'll be getting one asap. They plug into the directly into the computer correct? I've read of ones that go into the computer and ones that go into the engine block but am not sure if it's the samething..
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I found the lt4km at ws6store.com for $57 is that about the right price?(I'm so broke after all of this but I need it running right!)With the lt4 covers do I have to do the cutting that I had to do to the stock valve covers to fit? I still don't understand why it's so damn loud on the driver side. I adjusted while it was running and it's still chattery as can be..
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I would talk to Ion before you purchase that LT4 km, supposedly when you get a tune, it makes the stock knock module less sensitive. Not totally sure about that, just what i have read around here.