Which forged crank for a budget 383?
06-06-2009, 10:00 PM
#1
Which forged crank for a budget 383? Which forged crank is the best (least amount of work needed out of the box) for a budget 383 Scat, Eagle, Ohio Crank or Compstar? I have a budget of $550 for a crank and I want to get the best bang for my buck, I'm using a two bolt block with studs, Scat 6" procomp I beam rods, Manley lw ft forged pistons, 847 cam, home ported heads & intake, 58mm tb and a 150 shot. This is a dd and not an all out racer, I just want something reliable on a budget. I was going to get the cast steel crank but after doing some research I decided that an additional $300 for a forged crank would be cheap insurance for peace of mind when I hit the button.
06-06-2009, 11:04 PM
#4
must be confused cuz my car hasn't run down the track in over 3 years, and when it did it wasn't running 10s haha. hm yea I thought they were a bit cheaper than that damn! Even the chinese forgings are a bit over 550 man, for a cast crank i'd get a scat 9000 piece. Unless you can pick up a used crank that is.
06-07-2009, 12:11 AM
#5
Sorry about that there is a Z28 same color as yours, I found a few deals on 1pc rms 4340 forged Scat and Howards Track Smart cranks plus Ohio Cranks has a lw one for $525. The Compstar one is almost $700, I'm just trying to build a low budget all forged 383 for dd use and occasional track use with a 125-150 shot and I'd feel safer with any forged crank over a cast one but I don't need a super high end crank for this buildup. I'm already having another all forged 4bolt splayed billet cap 383 with AFR 210 Competition Eliminators being built and the budget 383 is just a holdover because my current engine is tired. I have a stock LT1 shortblock with home ported heads and intake and a 230*/230* dur 560/560 lift cam but the bottom end has 80xxx miles and I'd feel better with a fresh engine.
07-01-2009, 10:07 PM
#7
Well I found a supplier AD Performance who can get me the following for $1571 balanced and shipped to my door.So I'm going with this setup and I should be fine for the next few years.
Crank - Scat 4340 3.75" 1pc rms
Rods - Scat 4340 6" Procomp I beams
Pistons - Mahle coated forged with rings and wristpins
Bearings - Clevite coated H series rod and main bearings
Crank - Scat 4340 3.75" 1pc rms
Rods - Scat 4340 6" Procomp I beams
Pistons - Mahle coated forged with rings and wristpins
Bearings - Clevite coated H series rod and main bearings
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07-02-2009, 09:02 AM
#10
Well I found a supplier AD Performance who can get me the following for $1571 balanced and shipped to my door.So I'm going with this setup and I should be fine for the next few years.
Crank - Scat 4340 3.75" 1pc rms
Rods - Scat 4340 6" Procomp I beams
Pistons - Mahle coated forged with rings and wristpins
Bearings - Clevite coated H series rod and main bearings
Crank - Scat 4340 3.75" 1pc rms
Rods - Scat 4340 6" Procomp I beams
Pistons - Mahle coated forged with rings and wristpins
Bearings - Clevite coated H series rod and main bearings
That is a very good price. I might just have the balance checked locally.
Much better parts than the typical "buget" stroker builds.
Personally though I would have used the 80K mile stock shortblock, RESULTS say they work quite well.
07-02-2009, 07:40 PM
#13
Eagle just has dimensional and balancing issues. If you are lucky and get a good one great for you, but it is fairly common for them to need machining or to be hard to balance which pushes the cost up to a Compstar level in a big hurry.
Don't trust me, trust the guys selling motors with them.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11841220-post14.html
Eagle is popular because it is cheap not because it is a good value.
Don't trust me, trust the guys selling motors with them.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11841220-post14.html
Eagle is popular because it is cheap not because it is a good value.
07-02-2009, 08:25 PM
#14
94Guy why are you selling the 396 and what are the specs on it, what parts are in it?
96Capricemgr, I thought about just putting the engine in the car as is, it has fresh never run home ported LT1 heads with 2.02/1.56 Manley raceflows, home ported LT1 intake, 58mm Holley tb,Comp 230/230 .560/.560 110 lsa cam, new double roller timing set, CSI ewp, Canton oil pan & new op/pickup, etc but I would just feel better with a totally fresh engine. I looked at the college budget 355 from Ellwein Engines and started to do that but I couldn't pass up doing the all forged 383 for that price. Plus I also have an 847 cam that I think I'm going to use as well, which cam do you guys think will work better with the 125-150 shot, the single pattern cam or the dual pattern cam?
96Capricemgr, I thought about just putting the engine in the car as is, it has fresh never run home ported LT1 heads with 2.02/1.56 Manley raceflows, home ported LT1 intake, 58mm Holley tb,Comp 230/230 .560/.560 110 lsa cam, new double roller timing set, CSI ewp, Canton oil pan & new op/pickup, etc but I would just feel better with a totally fresh engine. I looked at the college budget 355 from Ellwein Engines and started to do that but I couldn't pass up doing the all forged 383 for that price. Plus I also have an 847 cam that I think I'm going to use as well, which cam do you guys think will work better with the 125-150 shot, the single pattern cam or the dual pattern cam?
07-02-2009, 09:43 PM
#15
SBC 23* heads are stronger on the intake side than the exhaust that is why more exhaust duration is used even on stock engines. How many single pattern cams do you see guys run?
I know someone will come back with a bench racing argument to that but this is the practical answer you need.
Nitrous needs even more exhaust duration. For a small shot like that you should not be looking at a "nitrous grind" but this is one more reason to skip the single pattern.
Did you have the seats replaced in the heads??? My understanding is you can machine the seats for 2.02 valves BUT there is not enough material left for it to actually last and function right for any amount of time. Seen no data that 2.02 is worthwile over the 2.00 that does fit the seat.
I know someone will come back with a bench racing argument to that but this is the practical answer you need.
Nitrous needs even more exhaust duration. For a small shot like that you should not be looking at a "nitrous grind" but this is one more reason to skip the single pattern.
Did you have the seats replaced in the heads??? My understanding is you can machine the seats for 2.02 valves BUT there is not enough material left for it to actually last and function right for any amount of time. Seen no data that 2.02 is worthwile over the 2.00 that does fit the seat.
07-04-2009, 10:16 AM
#19
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i agree and so does my wallet. but i agree with most of these ppl budget=cast. and as long as you dont plan to spray it much then that should work fine. if not then all the brands everyone said are good. there's an eagle goin into mine