Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

My car doesnt want to start. it seems like the power to the starter is cut. i get in and turn the key to crank it and nothing. all the lights on the dash are normal except for the "security" light keeps flashing. Ive tried cleaning the little resistor in the key and using the spare and nothing. we tried getting rid of the VATS by deleting it with the computer but it still won't do anything. I bought it with an astra 777 alarm and im thinking that it may be failing, but its worked perfectly up untill yesterday.

At this point i think its either the alarm won't disengage the anti theft system or the lock cylinder is dirty and not reading the resistor right.


Btw, i know the batttery is good and the starter is fine. its that damn security light. no codes.

I have tried leaving the key in the on position for 15-20 minutes hoping the key would reset itself but it didn't. I also tried disconnect the battery but nothing happened either.

I need some kind of schematic for this alarm so i can see what does what....

I need some advice on this. what should i do to get the car running?

SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

Some times you just have to w8 awhile, other times it will fire right up. But it can be a bad key or ign switch. You could even be the vats going bad.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

or the small like 18gauge wires coming from he sensor inside the ignition, that run through the steering column, could have broke. Had that happen to me as well as my key going bad. Just get a tune and get it tuned out.

Greenfire

iTrader: (2)

It's the ignition switch, that's what happened to our LS1 security light kept blinking and when you went to start it nothing, but all the lights were on. I had to pull the fuse for the PCM to reset it and it would start, BUT that was only a temp fix. Try to get a diagnostic done on the car if you can.

am_muscl

iTrader: (19)

I had a problem very similar to this and all it was, was a bad ground wire. Have you checked and cleaned all the grounds?

LT1

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem, mine ended up being VATS problem, bypassed it and worked fine.

This the link i used help me.
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

we tuned out vats but that didn't do anything. can the BCM be bypasssed?

im gonna check for any bad grounds tomorrow. if i dont see anything bad then im gonnna try and get rid of the stupid alarm (theres spliced wires in there so who knows what the heck might have happened). if that doesn't solve anything them im moving on to the lock cylinder (which im assuming is the ignition switch). Is this a wise road to take or should i just jump to the lock cylinder?

LT1

iTrader: (1)

On mine the orange and white wire to the lock cylinder broke and grounding out, usually they break because the wire moves back and forth then gets worn out and eventually grounds out. That's one reason the security light will flash like mine did.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

This is what i was referring too when i stated the 18 or 20g wire in the column. But if the VATS have been tuned out then he shouldnt have to be working about the security light any more. There has to be a different reason that it is causing it to not start.

LT1

iTrader: (1)

ahh i see, ive never had it tuned out of the computer and didn't know what that does.

Thanks

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

Yup VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) i believe that is what it stands for. The wire dont actually lock the cylinder though. What it does is reads the chip in the key and then feeds it back to the computer. What this does is then goes to the relay and allows this to feed power to the starter solenoid. When this is deleted this bypasses this complete system and is just like the old school turn key and start the car.

shbox

Not true. Tuning it out only takes car of half (fuel delivery) of what the VATS does. If it does not see the key pellet, there will be no starter engagement and the Security light will remain. You also have to bypass the TDR, to totally get rid of the VATS (or do the resistor bypass to satisfy the VATS).

The link in post #6 to my PassKey write-up has all that info.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

i have the resistor, vats deleted, and bypassed tdr. tdr magically went bad when i pulled the dash apart not too long ago

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

so then the alarm probably has nothing to with it?

since vats is tuned out then all i gotta do is by pass the TDR right? that will complete the equation and the car should fire up, in theory.

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

shbox, i notice the schematic to bypass the tdr is for a 95. do you think i should treat it like a 96?

Super-Bat

iTrader: (38)

Just get it serviced at your local dealer.
It's a $300 fix, but... you shouldn't have to worry about it ever again!

shbox

The TDR, itself, is the same. The only difference is the signal to operate it comes from the VATS module (pre-96) or BCM (96 and later).

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

so to clarify, in order for me to bypass the TDR, i would still need to connect the yellow and purple wires, right?

shbox

.....

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

well i went underneath and i tried to do the bypass, but only one problem: all i see is bunch of wires. theres like 2 purple, 2 yellow, a bunch of red and black. i don't know how to ID anything down there. maybe its time to take it to someone who knows what theyre doing and dish out the cash

at least this way i know it gets done right.