CSR Electric Waterpump Wiring
10-05-2011, 08:21 PM
#1
CSR Electric Waterpump Wiring So i just installed a csr ewp in my 96 z28. I also did the AIR delete but i just need to cut off the pipe under the engine. Ive also looked it up but keep finding different answers, so my question is, can i use the air pump relay for the ewp? or do i need another different one. Im still kinda lost on the whole wiring thing.
From what i understand, i connect the blue wire from the EWP, straight to the 87 terminal on the relay. Then i connect the black wire from the same EWP, straight to a ground.
Then, i connect the 86 terminal from the relay, straight to the same ground as the EWP.
Then the 30 terminal connects to the little ignition box in the passenger side.
Finally, i connect the 85 terminal to the fuse box. Here i dont know if i need to tap into the ignition fuse (10A). Or a different one?
Is this right or am i mixing up the terminal numbers??
From what i understand, i connect the blue wire from the EWP, straight to the 87 terminal on the relay. Then i connect the black wire from the same EWP, straight to a ground.
Then, i connect the 86 terminal from the relay, straight to the same ground as the EWP.
Then the 30 terminal connects to the little ignition box in the passenger side.
Finally, i connect the 85 terminal to the fuse box. Here i dont know if i need to tap into the ignition fuse (10A). Or a different one?
Is this right or am i mixing up the terminal numbers??
10-06-2011, 06:56 AM
#4
TECH Veteran
The relay should work wired as you described in post #1. Some of the terminals could be reversed, but they will work just the same. You need to use it. Bad idea not to. If you are running power to the EWP from a wimpy 10A fuse, it's going to eventually blow and lead to an unnoticed overheated engine.
10-06-2011, 07:03 AM
#5
From a previous post of mine:
Run a wire from the small positive terminal on the passenger side fender to terminal 87 of the relay.
Run a wire from the ignition fuse in the underhood fuse box to terminal 86 of the relay. You can tap into the wire below the fuse box.
Run a wire from terminal 85 of the relay to a good solid ground.
Run a wire from terminal 30 on the relay through a 1-amp inline fuse holder, then to the blue wire of the water pump.
Run the black wire off the water pump to another good solid ground.
Run a wire from the small positive terminal on the passenger side fender to terminal 87 of the relay.
Run a wire from the ignition fuse in the underhood fuse box to terminal 86 of the relay. You can tap into the wire below the fuse box.
Run a wire from terminal 85 of the relay to a good solid ground.
Run a wire from terminal 30 on the relay through a 1-amp inline fuse holder, then to the blue wire of the water pump.
Run the black wire off the water pump to another good solid ground.
10-06-2011, 01:01 PM
#6
whats weird is that i already have a wire going from terminal 30, straight to fuse #7. Its a 25 amp fuse and it reads "A/P FAN"
Its just a small wire connecting the two together, am i supposed to tap the EWP into that??
Its just the switched trigger wire thats got me lost.
Its just a small wire connecting the two together, am i supposed to tap the EWP into that??
Its just the switched trigger wire thats got me lost.
10-06-2011, 02:45 PM
#7
Maybe this will help, i still havent removed any fuses or wires from the AIR pump delete. Not sure if im supposed to. So heres what i got under the AIR pump relay as of right now:
terminal 85= has a little orange wire with no idea where its headed
Terminal 86- has a brown wire, also no idea where its going (im assuming ground)
terminal 87= is the bigger red/pink (cant tell) wire headed the same direction as the two above wires (this is where i have my EWP blue wire tapped into)
Terminal 30= has another small orange wire going into the AIR pump fuse which is a 25A fuse
Im just going to leave it like this until i buy the painless wiring kit. I dont wanna screw anything up.
terminal 85= has a little orange wire with no idea where its headed
Terminal 86- has a brown wire, also no idea where its going (im assuming ground)
terminal 87= is the bigger red/pink (cant tell) wire headed the same direction as the two above wires (this is where i have my EWP blue wire tapped into)
Terminal 30= has another small orange wire going into the AIR pump fuse which is a 25A fuse
The relay should work wired as you described in post #1. Some of the terminals could be reversed, but they will work just the same. You need to use it. Bad idea not to. If you are running power to the EWP from a wimpy 10A fuse, it's going to eventually blow and lead to an unnoticed overheated engine.
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10-20-2011, 06:17 AM
#10
One of the brown wires for the air pump relay coil, terminal 86 or 85 is a constant 12 volts, the other side goes to some switch or sensor but not to ground. Terminal 30 is the common which has the 12 volts coming through the 20amp fuse, and terminal 87 is the normally open leg of the relay. You can cut the two red wires from 87 which go to the air pumps plug and crimp them together with the blue from the wp. Take the black of the wp to ground. Cut the constant hot brown on 85 or 86 I cant remember and wire nut or crimp off the hot and tape it up. Take the rest of the brown that still is connected to the relay and crimp that into the brown wire on the secondary fans coil which is connected to the ignition fuse and only gets power when the key is on. Take the other side of 85 or 86 which you havnt touched yet to ground. Now you have power coming into the coil of the relay when the ignition is on and going out the other side to ground so it pulls in the relay connecting your common constant 12 volts dc to your normally open leg of the relay, which is your blue wire which goes to the pump then back to ground on the black of the wp completing the circuit.
DO NOT use the ignition 12 volts directly to power the wp, it draws too much current for that circuit and will blow fuses, which sounds like what you just did. You need to only use the ignition 12 volts to energize a coil in a relay to close the normally open contacts between a direct 12 volt hot wire from the battery to the blue on the ewp. The ignition only has a 10amp fuse for a reason and the tinly little wires on that circuit are unsafe to put any more current through.
DO NOT use the ignition 12 volts directly to power the wp, it draws too much current for that circuit and will blow fuses, which sounds like what you just did. You need to only use the ignition 12 volts to energize a coil in a relay to close the normally open contacts between a direct 12 volt hot wire from the battery to the blue on the ewp. The ignition only has a 10amp fuse for a reason and the tinly little wires on that circuit are unsafe to put any more current through.
10-20-2011, 11:42 AM
#11
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I wired my csr with a relay and I can take some pics of mine and show you how i did it. It works like a charm. All you need is a 4 way relay, some wire, an inline 30 amp fuse and some eyelets. I'll take some pics and PM them to you. I also have a diagram of what I based my install on. Just shoot me a PM.
10-20-2011, 11:27 PM
#12
One of the brown wires for the air pump relay coil, terminal 86 or 85 is a constant 12 volts, the other side goes to some switch or sensor but not to ground. Terminal 30 is the common which has the 12 volts coming through the 20amp fuse, and terminal 87 is the normally open leg of the relay. You can cut the two red wires from 87 which go to the air pumps plug and crimp them together with the blue from the wp. Take the black of the wp to ground. Cut the constant hot brown on 85 or 86 I cant remember and wire nut or crimp off the hot and tape it up. Take the rest of the brown that still is connected to the relay and crimp that into the brown wire on the secondary fans coil which is connected to the ignition fuse and only gets power when the key is on. Take the other side of 85 or 86 which you havnt touched yet to ground. Now you have power coming into the coil of the relay when the ignition is on and going out the other side to ground so it pulls in the relay connecting your common constant 12 volts dc to your normally open leg of the relay, which is your blue wire which goes to the pump then back to ground on the black of the wp completing the circuit.
DO NOT use the ignition 12 volts directly to power the wp, it draws too much current for that circuit and will blow fuses, which sounds like what you just did. You need to only use the ignition 12 volts to energize a coil in a relay to close the normally open contacts between a direct 12 volt hot wire from the battery to the blue on the ewp. The ignition only has a 10amp fuse for a reason and the tinly little wires on that circuit are unsafe to put any more current through.
DO NOT use the ignition 12 volts directly to power the wp, it draws too much current for that circuit and will blow fuses, which sounds like what you just did. You need to only use the ignition 12 volts to energize a coil in a relay to close the normally open contacts between a direct 12 volt hot wire from the battery to the blue on the ewp. The ignition only has a 10amp fuse for a reason and the tinly little wires on that circuit are unsafe to put any more current through.
I wired my csr with a relay and I can take some pics of mine and show you how i did it. It works like a charm. All you need is a 4 way relay, some wire, an inline 30 amp fuse and some eyelets. I'll take some pics and PM them to you. I also have a diagram of what I based my install on. Just shoot me a PM.
05-10-2016, 05:38 AM
#13
I wired my EWP like I wrote above, and I have found that if my high beams are on, it shuts off the EWP, and it's been so long since I did it in trying to figure out how to fix it. There's 1 of 2 things happening here:
Does the AIR pump turn off when the high beams are on?
My fans are wired to turn on (both fans at high speed) when the key is on. Does it turn off the secondary fans when the high beams are on?
Anyone else who wired it like this have this issue? The fans running at all times was wired by the PO, and I've traced it down but it's been 4 years since I've been in there.
Does the AIR pump turn off when the high beams are on?
My fans are wired to turn on (both fans at high speed) when the key is on. Does it turn off the secondary fans when the high beams are on?
Anyone else who wired it like this have this issue? The fans running at all times was wired by the PO, and I've traced it down but it's been 4 years since I've been in there.
05-10-2016, 10:52 AM
#14
Ewp through Air Relay:
Red wire goes to your pump for power. Pump is grounded to frame/motor.
Brown wire is your power feed from 20 amp fuse. There is another brown wire crimped into this that goes to another position on the relay. Clip it. Locate the brown wires coming from abs ign fuse. There are two, I clipped one (If you are keeping abs, do a proper splice) and connected it to the clipped brown wire from air relay. This powers the relay when key is in run position. (If you wanted a switch inside your car for some gay reason, you could splice here but would need a diode on the abs fuse)
The remaining single brown wire from the relay is for the pcm to command the relay. This is clipped, extended, and attached to a ground.
Sounds like your wiring is hacked up a bit and giving you good times!
Red wire goes to your pump for power. Pump is grounded to frame/motor.
Brown wire is your power feed from 20 amp fuse. There is another brown wire crimped into this that goes to another position on the relay. Clip it. Locate the brown wires coming from abs ign fuse. There are two, I clipped one (If you are keeping abs, do a proper splice) and connected it to the clipped brown wire from air relay. This powers the relay when key is in run position. (If you wanted a switch inside your car for some gay reason, you could splice here but would need a diode on the abs fuse)
The remaining single brown wire from the relay is for the pcm to command the relay. This is clipped, extended, and attached to a ground.
Sounds like your wiring is hacked up a bit and giving you good times!
