Cthulu

OK..I have a "home made" nitrous setup, window switch, first gear lockout, and wot, i've tested all my noids but I just don't feel the powa or torx!

things of note.

1. My filter is facing the right way and 8inches downstream of my noids.

2. Im running an 0.042 jet with a 90 angle sprayer like 5 inches from the maf, but pointed in the opposite direction of it. I didn't want to risk freezing the maf.

3. I'm 90% sure the noids are firing and both my relays work as well as my window switch.

4. I'm using two nos power shot noids inline.

5. I've power the system on with a full bottle and leak checked everything, no leaks that I can tell. There could be a leak between the two noids..but i'm highly skeptical of this.

6. When testing the nitrous noids after fused (30amp) current to them they seem to chatter? is this normal?

I've done everything short of turning the bottle off and unbolting the pedal mounted wot switch and getting someone to rev it up and feel if the noids fire.

Please help! I'm going to the strip tomorrow morning and really want my nos to work

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

The 0.42 jet is 75bhp, but more like a 65rwhp shot...I run it and I don't feel the power...but as you can see from my signature it produces results!

You won't freeze the MAF, so face the nozzle directly at it..that could be why you aren't feeling anything...

Cthulu

hmm, also when I purge(using a nos power shot for purge) I don't get a huge cloud of gaseous cool.

The purge line has a .082 jet and dual lines setup to come out the fog lights..but no huge awesome show. Is that based on temperature?

But I won't freeze the maf If I am it directly at it? It's like right before the maf..I remeasured and maybe 3 inches before the steel bit.

A friend is coming over to help me test, I think im going to dissassemble it and see if anything comes out the nozzle.

Any other ideas?

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

What happens when it is supposed to come on?

It might be going lean...when I sprayed the first couple times with the nozzle before the MAF the car had no power and was lean.

I tried 3 different nozzle placements on my lid...and then I gave up and my lid looks like swiss cheese... could be your problem??

Cthulu

WHen I purge it's just seems like compressed air(it's currently like 76 degrees here in MI), though I know it's coming from the tank and I know the tank is full of juice it weighed in at 24 lbs.

OffspringZ28

iTrader: (8)

my 2 cents

Cthulu

Tested the noids and the nozzle, nitrous is indeed going into the intake. Just tested, should I flip the 90 Degree nozzle so it's pointing directly at the MAF?

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

I agree with those guys ^

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

Have you weighed the bottle?

Nick

veee8

iTrader: (40)

When I ran a dry shot, I used a NOS 90* nozzle in the lid, that will fill the airbox area, and let the engine injest it on its own. That way it will pass over the MAF and actually add fuel. If you have it that close, and point it at the MAF, it could miss the sensor wire, and cause a lean condition. It was very effective the way I had it. Knocked 8 tenths off my time, I had it covered in black wire loom with the solenoid mounted low, you couldn't even tell it was on the car. Very stealthy.

Cthulu

"I know the tank is full of juice it weighed in at 24 lbs."

yep, it's definetly putting nitrous into the intake..from searching i'm getting mixed reviews of point it at the maf, away from the maf and at the wall.

*confused*

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

Shoot me over your email address and I'll send you a copy of our dry kit install instructions. There is a good section on nozzle placement. We generally have good luck on the passenger side aiming the nozzle directly at the maf, but there is a detailed picture with good areas to tap into.

Another option obviously would be to put the nozzle after the maf and run our Interface controller.

Nick

Cthulu

Well I ran a 13 flat at the track with the nitrous "on" and pointed at the maf directly. My mods are lid/filter Throttle Body bypass and a slp catback.

I think it is safe to say the nitrous isn't coming on. I'll test the noids with the nozzle out of my air box to see if it is working.

Pntbll309

iTrader: (33)

A 13.0 isnt a bad time for little mods. The #1 thing you did wrong was not run it on the bottle. You should do a motor pass and a bottle pass.Thats the best way to tell. Your ET may vary but look at your trap speeds.

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

Id bet one of those little noids is not firing or clogged.

blwn_00gt

iTrader: (17)

there is a sudden change in the tone of the motor when the nitrous hits, but to go to the track and not make a motor pass to see if there is difference in your time doesnt make much since at all...

What a Rush

iTrader: (2)

I have to agree as well. A good detective would have thought to run 2 different passes and make one motor only and the other NO2. We all learn..

Zach

Cthulu

I thought I posted that I did, I put up my cars numbers in the dyno section. first ten runs were nos off best of 13.2 next 10 were with the bottle on, best of 13.08 last 5 were bottle off best of 13.0008

I test the noids today after the power window motor.

Here is a link to my track results and NA dyno, bottle was not on.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/993082-13-flat-catback-cold-air-338-hp.html

nofxrxmxpx

iTrader: (3)

if these are used NOS noids check the filter mesh thing on the inlet of the noid. I had a 150 shot in my car on a used kit and put it on the dyno and it made 20whp... cleaned out the mesh w/ an air hose and it made 150whp.