Changing Plugs
09-29-2008, 10:07 AM
#2
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I change mine about twice a year. I didnt start running NOS till recently though so I'll be at least checking them more often. Its not a drag only car either...pump gas street/strip setup.
09-29-2008, 10:18 AM
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How often do you spray? There are really two factors at work here, first being the rapid heat rise in the chambers when using nitrous and the second being the fowling out from driving. Once they get the fuel glaze across the porceline they're pretty much done for. If its once a month that you're spraying it or something close to that then I would recommend checking them at every oil change. haha unless you don't ever change your oil 
Nick
Nick
09-30-2008, 09:10 AM
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I Change mine everytime I go to the track. I had a nitrous backfire becuase I nip a plug. So now I change them eveytime I go to the track to spray. You may run a tr7 its alot better then the tr6s. Oh yea that backfire cost me a to have my motor rebuilt it busted the ringland.
09-30-2008, 07:11 PM
#5
I Change mine everytime I go to the track. I had a nitrous backfire becuase I nip a plug. So now I change them eveytime I go to the track to spray. You may run a tr7 its alot better then the tr6s. Oh yea that backfire cost me a to have my motor rebuilt it busted the ringland.
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10-01-2008, 10:12 AM
#8
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Well no. BP7EFS is broken down as follows:
B = 14mm thread diameter
P = Projected Insulator Type
7 = Heat Range
EF = Tapered Seat 17.5mm Reach
S = Standeard 2.5mmD center electrode
Two problems there for running EFI and big shots...non-resisted and projected tip. Take a look at this plug instead.
BR7EF
B = 14mm Thread D
R = Resistor Type
7 = Heat Range
EF = Tapered Seat 17.5mm Reach
I made a spark plug reference chart a while back and it used to be a sticky...I have no idea where it went now though.
Nick
B = 14mm thread diameter
P = Projected Insulator Type
7 = Heat Range
EF = Tapered Seat 17.5mm Reach
S = Standeard 2.5mmD center electrode
Two problems there for running EFI and big shots...non-resisted and projected tip. Take a look at this plug instead.
BR7EF
B = 14mm Thread D
R = Resistor Type
7 = Heat Range
EF = Tapered Seat 17.5mm Reach
I made a spark plug reference chart a while back and it used to be a sticky...I have no idea where it went now though.
Nick
10-01-2008, 10:56 AM
#9
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Great info Nick...so is the recommendation to run a 7 equivalent plug for a 150shot? Im still running TR55s with 6 degrees taken out...Im about to replace with a colder plug and was going to use the TR6s.
10-01-2008, 09:41 PM
#11
Well no. BP7EFS is broken down as follows:
B = 14mm thread diameter
P = Projected Insulator Type
7 = Heat Range
EF = Tapered Seat 17.5mm Reach
S = Standeard 2.5mmD center electrode
Two problems there for running EFI and big shots...non-resisted and projected tip. Take a look at this plug instead.
BR7EF
B = 14mm Thread D
R = Resistor Type
7 = Heat Range
EF = Tapered Seat 17.5mm Reach
I made a spark plug reference chart a while back and it used to be a sticky...I have no idea where it went now though.
Nick
B = 14mm thread diameter
P = Projected Insulator Type
7 = Heat Range
EF = Tapered Seat 17.5mm Reach
S = Standeard 2.5mmD center electrode
Two problems there for running EFI and big shots...non-resisted and projected tip. Take a look at this plug instead.
BR7EF
B = 14mm Thread D
R = Resistor Type
7 = Heat Range
EF = Tapered Seat 17.5mm Reach
I made a spark plug reference chart a while back and it used to be a sticky...I have no idea where it went now though.
Nick
10-02-2008, 10:45 AM
#14
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Nick,
Its in this sticky
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/846230-everything-nitrous-related-stock-bottom-end-all.html
I use that information alot, thanks for posting it up way back when.
10-02-2008, 10:47 AM
#15
For a 150 shot I'd run a #7 and feel that's pretty safe for what you're doing.
I have a #9 with the same amount of nitrous but an assload more compression so it needs a colder plug. I probably could get away with a #8, but the #9's have worked out good, being that i've been spraying the thing for a year and haven't had an issue.
I do change them every trip to the track too, I use the old plugs to load/unload the car on and off the trailer, then once it's unloaded I'll use them to go thru tech and whatnot, then I'll put a fresh set in for the first pass. This way the engine's already warm too, so the chance of fouling one out right away is alot less.
I have a #9 with the same amount of nitrous but an assload more compression so it needs a colder plug. I probably could get away with a #8, but the #9's have worked out good, being that i've been spraying the thing for a year and haven't had an issue.
I do change them every trip to the track too, I use the old plugs to load/unload the car on and off the trailer, then once it's unloaded I'll use them to go thru tech and whatnot, then I'll put a fresh set in for the first pass. This way the engine's already warm too, so the chance of fouling one out right away is alot less.
10-02-2008, 12:46 PM
#16
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Nick,
Its in this sticky
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846230
I use that information alot, thanks for posting it up way back when.
Its in this sticky
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846230
I use that information alot, thanks for posting it up way back when.
Nick
