Rede

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have idea as to why the Hp Tuner logs would show lesss than 100% WOT when I had the pedal to the firewall?

I did have faulty o2s, but I replaced them a few days before we did our data logs.

Would a ported and polished TB from a different year cause this?
IE: I bought a PnP ls1 TB from a site member who's done quite afew TB's and I think is or was even a sponsor at one time. (don't quote me on that)

Could the TPS mechanisim be slightly different on say a 98-2000 LS1 motor compaired to one from my '01? Perhaps a longer or shorter arm on the TB causing only 85-93% WOT readings?

nikon1999

iTrader: (22)

yes, im 99% sure the 98-99 cars were different throttle cable lengths than 00-02

DaveX

I don't know about the differences between years for the tb's and cables, but check to see if your all the way against the bump stop on the TB with the pedal on the floor. It's not uncommon to have to adjust the cable because they stretch over time. It's very easy to adjust the cable.

radkon

iTrader: (2)

Look at the TB blade itself. Does it open to 90 degrees?
If so then hook a volt meter up to the TPS and make sure it is outputting the correct voltage (4.8 I think but don't quote me on it).


"bump stop mod"

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/420817-bumpstop-mod-my-first-try-writing-install.html

Rede

iTrader: (2)

The bumb stop mod was done, as well as knife edge on the "blade".

I'll have to pull my lid off and check to see that its opening to the full 90º or not.

As far as cable length goes, does anyone know of a how-to site that has cable adjustments or could give me some step-by-step instructions.

I guessing the newer year cars had a longer TB cable, hence why I'm not opening up the throttle 100%... I'll have to check this though as mentioned above...

Thanks for the help guys!

DaveX

I'm not sure if the cable adjustment is the same on your car as it is on mine. But on mine there is a place to adjust it in the cable, between where it exits the firewall and where it enters the cruise control box. It's actually back near the firewall toward the passenger side. All you do is pull out a clip, pull both sides of the cable to extend it, and put the clip back in. Just make sure it has a little slack so it will sit on the idle stop. Mine is very easy to do.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Sounds fairly easy enough, but I'm not sure I'm clear as to where this clip is.

Would you be able to take a picture of your engine bay and circle it for me?

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

you cant miss it. it is the only thing that is not shaped like a cable it is a square block in the middle of the cable. i bought a throttle body from a truck and it did the same thing and no amount of adjusting would fix it. It had a smaller linkage and just would not work, no matter what i tried. open your hood step on the gas and try to look between the hood and windshield to see if you are hitting the throttle stop.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Oh... *feels like a R-tard now*

Did you have to put your stock TB back on then?

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

i had sold it to a friend of mine a year before. i just went back to the fast set up i had. i was having fueling issues and was trying to figure out what was wrong.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Gotchya.
I'll head out after super and peek and prod to see whats what. =\

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

if it turns out to be the throttle body you can just remove the shaft and change out the whole arm and linkage from your old one. thats if you still have it.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

hehe Luckily I kept it. I ment to send it back for a core return a few times.
Procastination for the win*!


* Why is F T W censored??

Rede

iTrader: (2)

So I had a chance to inspect things yesterday and the TB is opening all the way, but man do you have to jam the pedal HARD against the firewall.
I never thought to look a see if the floormat was in the way though...

Cables seem fine.

Maybe I should just go back to stock?

Out of curriosity.. with that other TB you had.. was it showing a different fuel trim?

Someone pointed out that I have a 14% lean fuel trim on the logs, but I don't know how I'm supose to correct that =\

foff667

iTrader: (2)

because that "phrase" has seen better days lol

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

i never really had a chance to run with it on. i started to log as soon as i got it put on, and noticed it wasn't opening but 78%. then started the tweaking of the cable, tried bending the gas peddle, put a spacer on the cable. it took a couple hours. then took it all off and put the fast minifold back on. did you try adjusting the cables. if the fuel trims are out you will need to add some fuel. dont use my HP Tuners much, i have EFI LIVE as well, but i would say do some logging of the fuel trims and MAF sensor and see if you can find where it is lean at the corresponding frequency of MAF and increase those areas. this would be the easyest way to compesate for it, read up on the tutorials on their forum it will help alot. it is likely lean due to the extra air from the ported throttle body. if you take out the throttle blade and turn the throttle body on it's side you should see a little dimple in the end of the shaft, by the sensors. you can get a hole punch or small philips head screw driver and a small hammer and give it a little wack. this will loosen the ring that holds it all together so you can remove the shaft and linkage, one piece, and use your stock one in the new throttle body. just be carefull not to damage the ring so you can use it again when you reassemble it. i had to do this with the one ,off my car, i sold to my friend because he has a truck. if it opens all the way you should be fine though, just try to adjust the cable a little.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

The fuel trim was a bit out, but I don't have a wideband o2 so I don't have any way to monitor that aspect. He told me that the pcm will automatically adjust...

I don't have the HP tuner software/laptop. I'll have to wait till I can get a hold of friend who did the logging for me.

It'd be much easier to have it all myself, but I seem to be constantly broke.
I'm starting to think its a permanent condition!

Throttle cables seem fine as far as functionallity. It does open the blade to 90º but you REALLY have to hold that petal firm to the firewall which I could see being a pita...

Rede

iTrader: (2)

**Update**

Went out again and got the tune nailed nicely with 0 knock showing on 3 runs in a row. Then on the final run I hit the revlimer in the shift from 2nd to 3rd. ANd I hit 100% WOT each time.. just had to push it to the firewall and then some

Dave bumped down the shift point 100rpm from 6000. (revlimter was set at 6100, shift time at .35 and trans pressure slightly upped but nothing much)
Again I hit it, so down to 5900 and hit it again.

After that dave set it to stock shift time, point and pressure till he could read up on why it would do that...

Lastnight I did two runs with my buddy John and hit the rev limiter again both times.
First run I just pegged the gas and roasted the tired for about 100 feet so I figured it climbed too fast to shift properly. The second run I feathered the gas a bit with only a little spin in 1st. Second wasn't spinning, but I hit the limiter again.

It's alays the 2nd to 3rd shift point.

Anyone have a theory as to whats going on?