Firebird Headlights--ALL COMMENTS/QUESTIONS REGARDING HEADLIGHTS GO IN HERE
#1084
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Hey guys, been having a weird issue lately and hope someone can point me in the right direction. When I bought the car the gear was stripped in the passengers side headlight so I did the 180* fix and it worked perfectly....for 8 months.
Fast forward to 8 months after that fix. I installed headers and my battery ended up dying on me while I was doing them. Since then on completely random occasions when I press lock/unlock on my FOB both head lights will come up, and then go back down. They NEVER make a grinding noise (which is how I diagnosed the stripped gear when I bought it) and actually turning them on/off when I'm in the car always works perfectly. It seems weird, and highly unlikely that during my header install the gears on both sides became stripped and make no grinding noise. What could possibly be causing this?
Fast forward to 8 months after that fix. I installed headers and my battery ended up dying on me while I was doing them. Since then on completely random occasions when I press lock/unlock on my FOB both head lights will come up, and then go back down. They NEVER make a grinding noise (which is how I diagnosed the stripped gear when I bought it) and actually turning them on/off when I'm in the car always works perfectly. It seems weird, and highly unlikely that during my header install the gears on both sides became stripped and make no grinding noise. What could possibly be causing this?
#1085
Hey guys I have a problem with my headlights.
I thought it might be my gears so as I was pulling my lights out I noticed that I had two wires just hanging not connected so I traced them and found that they are wires for the motors, but the both headlight motors are connected together someone had ran wires from the passenger side to the driver side motor. I have been working on it today and the wires that were not connected are the same color as the ones for the light plug so, I tested them and they have power to them then I hooked them to the motor and they did not work the motor. I tried a 9volt battery on the motor and the motor would turn in both directons when I changed the pos. neg. wires on the 9 volt battery. I notice one wire is a constant power wire and the other is only when you turn the switch on but together they will not work the motor. I am not sure what else to do. Any help would be greatly apprecaited.
I thought it might be my gears so as I was pulling my lights out I noticed that I had two wires just hanging not connected so I traced them and found that they are wires for the motors, but the both headlight motors are connected together someone had ran wires from the passenger side to the driver side motor. I have been working on it today and the wires that were not connected are the same color as the ones for the light plug so, I tested them and they have power to them then I hooked them to the motor and they did not work the motor. I tried a 9volt battery on the motor and the motor would turn in both directons when I changed the pos. neg. wires on the 9 volt battery. I notice one wire is a constant power wire and the other is only when you turn the switch on but together they will not work the motor. I am not sure what else to do. Any help would be greatly apprecaited.
Last edited by ScreaminCETA; 06-13-2011 at 02:00 AM.
#1086
TECH Senior Member
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Hey guys, been having a weird issue lately and hope someone can point me in the right direction. When I bought the car the gear was stripped in the passengers side headlight so I did the 180* fix and it worked perfectly....for 8 months.
Fast forward to 8 months after that fix. I installed headers and my battery ended up dying on me while I was doing them. Since then on completely random occasions when I press lock/unlock on my FOB both head lights will come up, and then go back down. They NEVER make a grinding noise (which is how I diagnosed the stripped gear when I bought it) and actually turning them on/off when I'm in the car always works perfectly. It seems weird, and highly unlikely that during my header install the gears on both sides became stripped and make no grinding noise. What could possibly be causing this?
Fast forward to 8 months after that fix. I installed headers and my battery ended up dying on me while I was doing them. Since then on completely random occasions when I press lock/unlock on my FOB both head lights will come up, and then go back down. They NEVER make a grinding noise (which is how I diagnosed the stripped gear when I bought it) and actually turning them on/off when I'm in the car always works perfectly. It seems weird, and highly unlikely that during my header install the gears on both sides became stripped and make no grinding noise. What could possibly be causing this?
Typically when the lights go up and down with the key fob it's because the headlight controller brain never got it's confirmation that both motors have fully raised or lowered. That confirmation being a big surge in amperage on the motor wires.
Listen to both motors carefully after turning the lights on and off and make sure they don't continue to run once their fully up and down.
If they both stop in both directions I would have to say your headlight controller brain is at fault. The best way to check it to to ask a buddy with a TA or Firebird if you can borrow theirs for 2 minutes.
You can find used ones on ebay for under $30 usually. They are really durable units and rarely go bad. I would check all the wire connectors just in case.
The only other part left would be the DRL/Auto Headlight box and it doesnt sound like that piece.
#1087
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Hey guys I have a problem with my headlights.
I thought it might be my gears so as I was pulling my lights out I noticed that I had two wires just hanging not connected so I traced them and found that they are wires for the motors, but the both headlight motors are connected together someone had ran wires from the passenger side to the driver side motor. I have been working on it today and the wires that were not connected are the same color as the ones for the light plug so, I tested them and they have power to them then I hooked them to the motor and they did not work the motor. I tried a 9volt battery on the motor and the motor would turn in both directons when I changed the pos. neg. wires on the 9 volt battery. I notice one wire is a constant power wire and the other is only when you turn the switch on but together they will not work the motor. I am not sure what else to do. Any help would be greatly apprecaited.
I thought it might be my gears so as I was pulling my lights out I noticed that I had two wires just hanging not connected so I traced them and found that they are wires for the motors, but the both headlight motors are connected together someone had ran wires from the passenger side to the driver side motor. I have been working on it today and the wires that were not connected are the same color as the ones for the light plug so, I tested them and they have power to them then I hooked them to the motor and they did not work the motor. I tried a 9volt battery on the motor and the motor would turn in both directons when I changed the pos. neg. wires on the 9 volt battery. I notice one wire is a constant power wire and the other is only when you turn the switch on but together they will not work the motor. I am not sure what else to do. Any help would be greatly apprecaited.
I would check the wiring from where it was cut to the plug on the headlight controller brain. Unplug the connector at the brain and on the other end and do a continuity test on the wires. If their bad you'll need to check the connectors or the wires for the bad spot. Or else splice in a new wire.
If the wires are good then it may be a rare case of that controller brain going bad and not sending the right signals.
If you need more details, just ask.
#1088
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That is odd. I've never heard of that before.
Typically when the lights go up and down with the key fob it's because the headlight controller brain never got it's confirmation that both motors have fully raised or lowered. That confirmation being a big surge in amperage on the motor wires.
Listen to both motors carefully after turning the lights on and off and make sure they don't continue to run once their fully up and down.
If they both stop in both directions I would have to say your headlight controller brain is at fault. The best way to check it to to ask a buddy with a TA or Firebird if you can borrow theirs for 2 minutes.
You can find used ones on ebay for under $30 usually. They are really durable units and rarely go bad. I would check all the wire connectors just in case.
The only other part left would be the DRL/Auto Headlight box and it doesnt sound like that piece.
Typically when the lights go up and down with the key fob it's because the headlight controller brain never got it's confirmation that both motors have fully raised or lowered. That confirmation being a big surge in amperage on the motor wires.
Listen to both motors carefully after turning the lights on and off and make sure they don't continue to run once their fully up and down.
If they both stop in both directions I would have to say your headlight controller brain is at fault. The best way to check it to to ask a buddy with a TA or Firebird if you can borrow theirs for 2 minutes.
You can find used ones on ebay for under $30 usually. They are really durable units and rarely go bad. I would check all the wire connectors just in case.
The only other part left would be the DRL/Auto Headlight box and it doesnt sound like that piece.
#1089
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
It's right on the side of the underhood fuse box.
In this pic from 1995blacktattop, it's on the bottom right side. With the 2 plugs in it.
The plug on the left is the output side and has 4 wires that are green and blue. They go straight to the motors.
The plug on the right is the input side and has 5 wires. The 2 orange wires come straight off the fuse box and are always 12v hot.
In this pic from 1995blacktattop, it's on the bottom right side. With the 2 plugs in it.
The plug on the left is the output side and has 4 wires that are green and blue. They go straight to the motors.
The plug on the right is the input side and has 5 wires. The 2 orange wires come straight off the fuse box and are always 12v hot.
Last edited by JasonWW; 06-14-2011 at 12:09 PM.
#1091
I'm new to everything--been reading a lot on these threads, and honestly I don't know where to start with my problem. Originally, when I would turn on my headhlights (if they hadn't been turned on for a couple days) they would take literally ten minutes to come up, but they would always come up and they would always be on. However if you had been using them daily, they would always come up in seconds. Thats the first problem, and I think this can be fixed by wd-40 sprayed on something? I believe thats what I read in this forum.
Second problem, I'm fairly certain i hit a bump of some sort perhaps .....but my drivers side headlight is halfway up and it looks kind of dislodged to the right, it does like look like it is sitting too far to the side when i compare it to the passenger side headlight. Anyways when I go to turn my headlights on the passengers side does it perfectly, with the drivers side headlight not moving at all, no noise--nothing. However the acutal light on the drivers side works....I'm having trouble finding all of this stuff you guys are talking about--like checking the connector from the motor to some panel and making sure its getting 12v? where is that? Also some relay board for something? how do i shift this thing back? I'll post pics if needed, thanks in advance guys.
Second problem, I'm fairly certain i hit a bump of some sort perhaps .....but my drivers side headlight is halfway up and it looks kind of dislodged to the right, it does like look like it is sitting too far to the side when i compare it to the passenger side headlight. Anyways when I go to turn my headlights on the passengers side does it perfectly, with the drivers side headlight not moving at all, no noise--nothing. However the acutal light on the drivers side works....I'm having trouble finding all of this stuff you guys are talking about--like checking the connector from the motor to some panel and making sure its getting 12v? where is that? Also some relay board for something? how do i shift this thing back? I'll post pics if needed, thanks in advance guys.
#1092
also this could be completely unrelated but....when i lock my door using the actual lock switch (not just sliding the lock on the actual door), EVERY TIME i get into the car again my headlights and fog lights will start flashing until i turn the car on. Again, I don't know if this relates, and I'm certainly not going to pretend I have the slightest idea of how to fix all of this. I'm reading through this whole forum, any help will be greatly appreciated. I just spend around 2k converting my car to ws6 (I think a fourth gen ws6 is the best looking car. ever) and the last thing I want to do is drop a thousand at a dealer for a problem that could easily reoccur in a month unless i fig out how these headlights work.
#1093
okay yesterday i fooled around with it and apparently the driver's side headlight's arm had gotten knocked loose off the white plastic stop, so i put it back, but when i turn on headlight driver's headlight does nothing--no noise either--however headlight still comes on. During the midst of this i rotated a **** on top of the headlight motor (after reading all the posts i'm pretty sure its not the right manual up down ****), it did not say remove for manual operation yet it still moved headilght up and down. anyways i tried moving the same **** on the passenger side and not only did it not manually raise it (was just doing this to compare to drivers side to help fix, but passenger side motor was working up to this point), after i tried to turn on headlights now neither of them come up.
does anyone know what is the **** directly on top of the headlight motor? What happens if you turn it? Is my motor shot or what? Also where is the right ****? If your gear is stripped in the motor it would still make noise right? so if there is no noise I need new gear? i def need help fellas
does anyone know what is the **** directly on top of the headlight motor? What happens if you turn it? Is my motor shot or what? Also where is the right ****? If your gear is stripped in the motor it would still make noise right? so if there is no noise I need new gear? i def need help fellas
#1094
hey anyone on here? i did a little surgery and beneath the drivers side on the five wire prong connection, for the two wires heading to the motor--both of those metal connections were broken off on the inside--where can i get another one of these? Do i have to get a new motor?
#1096
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extremely weird problem here guys...
all four headlights are on. the passenger side low beam is on and looks normal, the drivers side low beam as well as both high beams are on and VERY dim. the high beam indicator bulb on the dash is dimly lit. both fogs are working fine.
even stranger, when i turn on the high beams the drivers side as well as the fogs just completely shut off. high beam indicator bulb becomes fully lit. the motors were giving me a hard time and have had the fuse pulled on them in the "awake" position for quite a while now. when i tried cleaning the wire harness one of the connectors was so corroded it just snapped off but the lights themselves were fine.
thanks in advance guys.
all four headlights are on. the passenger side low beam is on and looks normal, the drivers side low beam as well as both high beams are on and VERY dim. the high beam indicator bulb on the dash is dimly lit. both fogs are working fine.
even stranger, when i turn on the high beams the drivers side as well as the fogs just completely shut off. high beam indicator bulb becomes fully lit. the motors were giving me a hard time and have had the fuse pulled on them in the "awake" position for quite a while now. when i tried cleaning the wire harness one of the connectors was so corroded it just snapped off but the lights themselves were fine.
thanks in advance guys.
#1099
My driver side low beam headlight is having major issues.
The motor for the headlight been replaced before I bought the car back a few years ago.
The headlight was replaced about two-one year ago.
This spring it started with something odd.
The pigtail started to burn so i replaced the pigtail and cleaned off the headlight.
Well the second pigtail is now deformed and burnt too.
So I just unplugged it because the smoke was becoming to much from the burning pigtail and it doesn't seem safe unless my name is Billy Bob Joe who married his first cousin.
So my question regards of what to do?
The motor for the headlight been replaced before I bought the car back a few years ago.
The headlight was replaced about two-one year ago.
This spring it started with something odd.
The pigtail started to burn so i replaced the pigtail and cleaned off the headlight.
Well the second pigtail is now deformed and burnt too.
So I just unplugged it because the smoke was becoming to much from the burning pigtail and it doesn't seem safe unless my name is Billy Bob Joe who married his first cousin.
So my question regards of what to do?
#1100
TECH Senior Member
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okay yesterday i fooled around with it and apparently the driver's side headlight's arm had gotten knocked loose off the white plastic stop, so i put it back, but when i turn on headlight driver's headlight does nothing--no noise either--however headlight still comes on. During the midst of this i rotated a **** on top of the headlight motor (after reading all the posts i'm pretty sure its not the right manual up down ****), it did not say remove for manual operation yet it still moved headilght up and down. anyways i tried moving the same **** on the passenger side and not only did it not manually raise it (was just doing this to compare to drivers side to help fix, but passenger side motor was working up to this point), after i tried to turn on headlights now neither of them come up.
does anyone know what is the **** directly on top of the headlight motor? What happens if you turn it? Is my motor shot or what? Also where is the right ****? If your gear is stripped in the motor it would still make noise right? so if there is no noise I need new gear? i def need help fellas
does anyone know what is the **** directly on top of the headlight motor? What happens if you turn it? Is my motor shot or what? Also where is the right ****? If your gear is stripped in the motor it would still make noise right? so if there is no noise I need new gear? i def need help fellas
Anyway, the **** on top of the headlight motor is the manual **** in case the motor stops working you can manually raise the lights. There is supposed to be a rubber boot over the top to keep water out. It sounds like your missing these rubber boots.
What year is your car?
You've got such a strange problem I'd suggest disconnecting the arm on the motor and make sure the headlight can move up and down easily with no binding.
Maybe that slow motor was getting a really weak voltage due to the bad connectors and that's why it took 10 minutes to open. Definitely fix those. A direct connection is best.