Hard-Wiring Satellite Radio and V1
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Hard-Wiring Satellite Radio and V1
Hey Fellas, I have a satellite radio coming and I plan on getting a Valentine One radar detector. I was wondering if it was possible to hard-wire both units into the yellow wire in the radio harness? I know about getting a cigarette socket for the sat. radio, but I was wondering if an overload would occur by having two devices wired into the same yellow power wire. Thanks.
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Ok, I've been trying to figure this out. I think I'll get power for the satellite radio from the yellow wire in the radio harness using a cigarette adapter plug. For the V1 I'll go under the hatch panel according to Jim's instructions on LS1HowTo.
Just wondering, ever get the feeling you were talking to yourself?
Just wondering, ever get the feeling you were talking to yourself?
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Oh okay. It's the same concept as a house circuit. I think the satellite radio only draws 5 amps, so that leaves me with 10 amps to allow for the radar detector? Thanks.
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I looked up the power requirements for Valentine One:
"225 mA typical standby, 425 mA maximum
alarm condition"
Does that mean it draws 2.25 amps in standby and 4.25 amps in alrm condition? If so it looks like the combination of sat. radio and V1 would only draw 7.25 to 9.25 amps on a 15 amp circuit. Is this correct?
"225 mA typical standby, 425 mA maximum
alarm condition"
Does that mean it draws 2.25 amps in standby and 4.25 amps in alrm condition? If so it looks like the combination of sat. radio and V1 would only draw 7.25 to 9.25 amps on a 15 amp circuit. Is this correct?
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 12-06-2011 at 07:06 AM. Reason: Fix tiny font
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Is this the kind of cigarette socket I should get for a 5 amp draw satellite radio spliced into the yellow wire in the radio harness?
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-.../ref=pd_cp_e_4
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-.../ref=pd_cp_e_4
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I looked up the power requirements for Valentine One:
"225 mA typical standby, 425 mA maximum
alarm condition"
Does that mean it draws 2.25 amps in standby and 4.25 amps in alrm condition? If so it looks like the combination of sat. radio and V1 would only draw 7.25 to 9.25 amps on a 15 amp circuit. Is this correct?
"225 mA typical standby, 425 mA maximum
alarm condition"
Does that mean it draws 2.25 amps in standby and 4.25 amps in alrm condition? If so it looks like the combination of sat. radio and V1 would only draw 7.25 to 9.25 amps on a 15 amp circuit. Is this correct?
A milliamp is one thousandth of an amp (not one hundredth) so 425 mA is less than half an amp. That shouldn't be a problem for adding to the radio circuit.
The circuit you're talking about is 15 amps maximum total - including the radio itself and the steering wheel controls. Adding the satellite radio could potentially cause problems. However, my experience is that those plug-and-play satellite radios don't draw anywhere near the amperage of the included 5A fuse - more like 1.5 to 2 amps. You should be okay splicing into the radio circuit as long as you don't change the factory fuse size. If the fuse blows, find a different place to wire the accessories - don't install a larger fuse.
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Actually... no.
A milliamp is one thousandth of an amp (not one hundredth) so 425 mA is less than half an amp. That shouldn't be a problem for adding to the radio circuit.
The circuit you're talking about is 15 amps maximum total - including the radio itself and the steering wheel controls. Adding the satellite radio could potentially cause problems. However, my experience is that those plug-and-play satellite radios don't draw anywhere near the amperage of the included 5A fuse - more like 1.5 to 2 amps. You should be okay splicing into the radio circuit as long as you don't change the factory fuse size. If the fuse blows, find a different place to wire the accessories - don't install a larger fuse.
A milliamp is one thousandth of an amp (not one hundredth) so 425 mA is less than half an amp. That shouldn't be a problem for adding to the radio circuit.
The circuit you're talking about is 15 amps maximum total - including the radio itself and the steering wheel controls. Adding the satellite radio could potentially cause problems. However, my experience is that those plug-and-play satellite radios don't draw anywhere near the amperage of the included 5A fuse - more like 1.5 to 2 amps. You should be okay splicing into the radio circuit as long as you don't change the factory fuse size. If the fuse blows, find a different place to wire the accessories - don't install a larger fuse.
Just to be sure, I've seen lighter sockets with one wire and two wires. Do I want the one with just one wire coming off it? Even the one in link looks like it might have two wires but they're not separated apart. I don't know how closely you looked at it. Here's one that looks like it has a single wire coming off it:
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-...3180669&sr=8-3
Thanks for the help.
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BTW TruBloodTA, how would you rate your V1? Are you happy with it?
I was thinking about getting some Laser Veil (that stuff you paint on so that LEO's laser has a hard time locking on), but I learned that the areas that reflect the most light are the headlights and the front license plate. It seems that the Trans Am is pretty stealth from the factory with pop up headlights and the front plate cover. Even the antenna is black instead of chrome like most antennas and reflects less light. Pretty cool.
Last edited by Predator; 12-06-2011 at 12:21 PM.
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Whitebird, here's a clear example of a lighter socket with two wires coming off it. I assume this is NOT the type I want, correct?
http://www.batteryspace.com/browsepr...Connector.html
http://www.batteryspace.com/browsepr...Connector.html
Last edited by Predator; 12-06-2011 at 02:05 PM.
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Great to hear about the V1. I know laser is tough to beat. Just wondering, do you run into laser traps that often or is it practically always radar? I know laser guns are pretty expensive, around 5000 bucks a pop. Isn't it mostly state cops that use laser?
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Maybe it's just me, but it seems like when I get hit with Laser the cop is usually stationary. Makes it a bit easier to spot, especially on open country roads. The V1 is great for K and Ka bands, it shows the signal strength and direction. Usually when I'm being hit with these two bands, the cops are driving by and they are going in and out of range.
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I've been hit with Laser a few times, and yes it was on some rural highway, probably a state trooper. Luckily, I wasn't speeding when they hit me.
Maybe it's just me, but it seems like when I get hit with Laser the cop is usually stationary. Makes it a bit easier to spot, especially on open country roads. The V1 is great for K and Ka bands, it shows the signal strength and direction. Usually when I'm being hit with these two bands, the cops are driving by and they are going in and out of range.
Maybe it's just me, but it seems like when I get hit with Laser the cop is usually stationary. Makes it a bit easier to spot, especially on open country roads. The V1 is great for K and Ka bands, it shows the signal strength and direction. Usually when I'm being hit with these two bands, the cops are driving by and they are going in and out of range.
I can't wait to get my V1. Let the games begin LOL.
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Hi Jimmy, I was wondering how that might work. Where did you mount your ground wire and junction box? Since I plan on placing the V1 above the mirror, it seems that getting power from the mirror makes the most logistical sense. Thanks.
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If you're going to mount it there, might want to check out the BlendMount. It's a little pricy but gives it a very clean look when installed.
I think there are 1 or 2 members on here who have it.
I think there are 1 or 2 members on here who have it.