1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I've got X Brand DA LCAs and DA PHB. I also have a UMI T/A with the stock style trans mount.

Whenever I take off from a stop, either forward or reverse, 80% of the time I get this popping noise, sounds like it is coming from the LCAs binding or something. I set up the PHB where the LCAs are as parallel as possible and setup equidistant to 2' in front of the rear differential. I dropped a plum bob from the jacking points on all 4 corners. Then marked the concrete, and found the center of the front and center of the rear. I then used a laser connecting those points and drew that line on the concrete. I measured 2' in front of the rear differential on that line and marked a big X. I measured the distance from that X to the LCA mount on the axle on each side. The measurement was the same. I also setup my driveline angle @ 2* negative, or the pinion below DS.

Anyway I get this weird popping noise, something as the LCA rods are rotating from side to side on their ball joints or something.

Anyone else have a similar experience or have ideas?

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

If you have rod ends on both sides they are going to be noisy

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Oh, I definitely understand they are noisy. As long as I have had the car, almost 2 years, I have been used to the noisy and horrible ride quality of the spherical rod ends. I am just trying to figure out if the noises during take off from a stop are normal.

I have been adjusting the suspension recently and after my first adjustment of the LCAs to pull the rear end forward a little so the driver side rear spring wasn't hitting the PHB support, the noise seem to go away, for a while. I am guessing that was just the suspension re-settling.

After I did that, I adjusting the driveline angle, which was 5+ degrees positive somehow. When I did, it pulled that spring even more forward so the other day I pushed the rear end back by 1/4". Its hard to get a good driveline angle using (3) jack stand sets, all with different load ratings laying on your back in the driveway. If I had access to a quality lift, this would be tons easier. Last thing I need to do is verify my driveline angle is still within spec, I am shooting for 2* negative due to the rod-ended rear suspension.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Are the jam-nut good and tight, how about the mount bolts?
Your rod-ends also might be worn out, unless there worn or the jam-nuts/bolts are loose they really shouldn't be very noisy, yeah they'll transmit more road noise, but the rod-end themselves shouldn't be noisy.

FYI, if you have a digital level just back the car up on ramps to set everything; it's so much easier that way.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Everything is good and tight. I priced out new rod ends a while back and it would be around $300. That money, at this time, would be better spend elsewhere, unless they fail entirely. Wouldn't there be some kind of looseness if they were bad? The only movement I can get is to rotate left and right, as the rod ends hit the spacers. Isn't that normal though?

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Yeah, the left and right movement is normal and will hit the spacers. According to SJM, "most" rod ends are machined for a 1/2" bolt and can be noisier when using the metric bolts that come stock on our cars. That's why SJM sells their LCA's with new 1/2" bolts and nuts. Just an idea.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/5063994-post53.html

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

If you can move the centers around really easy by hand then there worn to much. Most if not all your noise is probably coming from the LCA's , not the PHB. The PHB's aren't known for being noisy, even with rod-ends.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Hmm, I may look into replacing the hardware on the LCAs prior to replacing the rod ends. Thanks for that tip.

Yea, they are pretty easy to move. Possibly the noises may be elaborated by the rod ends and bolts too small for the spacers and bushings.

Thanks guys.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

The rod ends are definitely worn. I pulled a stock bolt from the chassis mount and there is a small amount of play, fore and aft, in the ball and joint. I am running up to the hardware store to get some Grade 8 1/2" bolts, nuts, and washers. It appears as if I am going to have to drill out the stock holes to be able to get 1/2" to work, as the stock hardware tightly fits the holes in the bracket, but loosely in the spacers and rod end.

Do either of you or anyone else know what brand of LCA and PHB these are? There are no markings and I did not originally install them. They are silver with rough etchings in the middle for adjustment. They, the PHB and LCAs, appear to be the same brand, but I don't know what it is.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Sorry, I've got no idea who made those.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Throw on some proven UMI/BMR/Spohn parts if you get an extra bit of cash down the road..

Did you say you installed and adjusted these parts with the car on the ground or not?

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I have adjusted them with the rear end on jack stands. The PHB is in the exact same position at full droop as it is under compression at ride height. Or the arc is in the same position, just over or under the horizontal.

I plan on replacing the LCA rod ends with either UMI Roto-Joints or Spohn Del-Spheres. As the rod ends are the expensive part, and the actual rods are perfectly fine.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

I don't see where it matters whether or not you install them with the suspension loaded or not. It's not like they will be in a bind like stock or poly ends. I don't know what brand they are, but I like the knurled section to grab on. Are you running the LCA's with offset bushings to clear wide tires? If so, you won't be able to use the Roto or Del-Spheres ends.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

No, they are standard spacers and I have 2+" of clearance, well with my current setup anyways. Maybe its something with the 12 bolt.

I was referencing the loaded suspension for adjusting the driveline angle, the LCAs and PHB have been adjusted at full droop.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-lca-slop.html

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I just drilled them at an angle with a 31/64" drill bit for the chassis mount holes. This way they aren't too out of round for the 1/2" bolt and I was able to get the 1/2" bolt in with just threading it in and that opened it up the rest of the way without having too much slack around the bolts. My axle mounts were already designed and built for the 1/2" hardware, but whoever installed the LCAs/12 bolt, used OE hardware.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Just to update, the 1/2" bolts have made a HUGE difference so far. The roads by my office and house are shitty. I didn't get a chance to drive them on the nasty roads on Sunday, but when I was coming back from lunch yesterday, it no longer sounded like my rear suspension was going to fall apart when I hit a bump!

So, I guess the next big step is new roto-joints. Thanks for the tips and help.