Element

iTrader: (5)

Drove the T/A to work yesterday and got sick and tired of it not doing what I want it to. Steering is vague and not really responsive, suspension response is erratic and uncomfortable, and my Sunfire induces more confidence going into corners (at least I know that little bastard is going to slide and understeer).

So, the T/A is up on jackstands and I'm tearing the suspension out. I already have SFCs, rod/rod LCAs and LCA relocation brackets, an adjustable UMI torque arm and relocation crossmember, rod/rod PHR, and HD Bilsteins on the axle. Sways, springs, and front end are all completely stock.

10-bolt gets replaced with MWC 9"; that means the torque arm, relocation crossmember, and LCA brackets all come out to be replaced with MWC's stock-length torque arm/crossmember, and integral LCA brackets.

Stock shocks come off to be replaced with Koni 4/4 SAs. DAs are just too expensive for me to swing and I'm not going to be auto-crossing the car.

Stock springs stay on the car; pending a decent exhaust shop locally, I can switch to Strano springs - again, not auto-crossing and I need all the ground clearance I can get. Non-custom 3" duals don't clear worth ****.

Panhard rod - undecided if I should keep it or go to a Watts link. Still can't get rid of the annoying sideways hop when the car hits a bump in a turn, even with HD Bilsteins and a rod/rod PHR in the back. Downside is price and additional weight.

Front lower OEM control arms go away; UMI rod control arms go in the bottom, OEM tops get new ball joints and rubber bushings. New tie-rod ends go in, PS pump gets pulled and sent to PSC, and I get a decent alignment after the new wheels and tires go on (245s up front, 315s out back, weee).

Entire brake system is getting cleaned up, too - new rotors, pads, stainless lines, fluid, and front Corvette calipers. Already have all that ****, just need to get in gear and do it.

So Sam, Mitch, assorted other f-body suspension deities, check my list, slap me in the back of the head for stupid parts, and tell me what looks good and what doesn't.

redracer1

iTrader: (2)

I installed Koni SA/Strano Springs and car felt much better but absolutley came to life when I installed Strano 35/22 hollow sway bars. I'd go there 1st and then go WattsLink.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

This is the path I plan next for my SS too... Do you have the Watts Link already? Did it help with bumps in a turn/corner?

Element

iTrader: (5)

Damn, forgot to mention I plan on picking up Sam's sway bars for sure.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Shocks, sways, springs, and finally a Watts link will definitely wake the car up. However, the most important things are shocks and sways for handling. It seems like your list is pretty good, but sways definitely need to be added. The Koni SA's coupled with some good 35/22 or 35/21 bars (such as Strano's hollow bars) will really wake the car up, even just the shocks make it handle like a dream.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

List looks really good. I'm on the fence with the watts link unless you just have money to throw around.

And I keep hearing about people that did konis didn't feel SFC's were worth it after because the konis stiffen up the car so much compared to the stock shocks that you can't even tell the SFC's really do anything. Only people I really hear that say SFC's helped their car stiffen up is ones that have stock shocks.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

I took my time posting, lol. Glad you had it in the works!

Element

iTrader: (5)

Now, another question I've got here - since I'm going to be tearing the front end apart anyway, should I go ahead and replace the front wheel hubs? Not getting any noise or play yet, and they're not cheap, but the car has 88k on it and it'd be a hell of a lot easier to swap new ones in with the front end apart, than putting it all back together and putting hubs in later on.

redracer1

iTrader: (2)

Nope dont have the wattslink yet. My UMI LCA's w/roto-joints did help with that tho.

JD_AMG

Sounds like the symptoms of lack of dampening.
Do you know what angle the LCA's will be at, or if it will be adjustable with the rear end?
Who says DA's are better?
Not a problem, the stock springs are not bad.
Surprised no one commented on this yet but why are you going to run such a narrow front tire? Stock SS/WS6 cars run 275's front, and many auto-x guys (I know you are not auto-xing but still) run 315s front. Go atleast 9" wide front wheel with 275 tire.
While you are at throwing the car together look into some swaybars (35mm front 22mm rear), those will make quite the difference as well.

Element

iTrader: (5)

LCAs will be adjustable, I think the MWC actually has quite a few more set points than the relocation brackets for 10-bolts.

When I talked to Sam about shocks, he recommended the DAs to better dampen a heavier rear like the S60, but from the feedback I've gotten, the MWC is pretty close to, if not lighter than, a stock 10-bolt, so that's less of a concern now.

Small front wheels/tires to cut weight up front. I need to get comparison weights between the Billet Specialties 17" wheels I want with 275s up front, and the same wheel but sized for 245s. Not really set on either yet, but I definitely want to cut as much weight out of the nose as I can. Tubular k-member is going in when the engine comes out for a rebuild, but that's a little further on down the road. My engine works fine right now; my suspension doesn't, so that's priority.

Sam's hollow sways will probably one of the first things I buy, definitely getting rid of the stockers.

JD_AMG

I figured that much, I just looked a pricing for the DA rear and didn't realize how much of a price gap there is. I assumed they were not much more expensive and you would run rear DAs and front SAs.

I get the whole weight cutting thing, but you are really sacrificing handling, and grip (may hurt braking as well). Not worth it IMO, shave weight elsewhere where you are not making such sacrifices.

Element

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I was a bit shocked when I saw the price difference...I'd rather spend the extra $600 on a Watts link.

After thinking about it, unless I can cut 30+lbs going with 245s over 275s up front, I'll go with the wider tire.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Even if the wider front tires weight more, you get quite a bit more traction for hauling the extra weight around (and them some for the heft of the front of the car)

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I'd also pick a Watts over DA's... But the fact is if the unsprung weight goes up you need to consider a shock with more compression damping capability.

And no, you won't come close to saving 30 pounds running 245 vs. 275's. Maybe, *maybe* 3 pounds.

Element

iTrader: (5)

I'll get a better estimate of the weight when I give MWC a call to go over axle specs...hopefully (for total vehicle weight and shock choice) the 9" will be close to or only a little heavier than the 10-bolt. I know it's hard to call, but what's the tipping point for increased axle mass where one should really step up to a DA? If the 9" is, say, 50lbs heavier, are the SAs still ok?

Wide tires up front it is.