TravWS6

ok i finally got my hi jacker gabrail shocks in today.. noticed that it requires 25 PSi min so i try to put some air in.. not to mention its a pain in the A** cuz it bleeds out as fast as u put it in.. this is kind of a stupid set up.. but n e ways.. when i do put air in it lifts the back to much for my liking.. relizing i only got about a inch and half of travel from the bump stop to the rear axle.. so i was thinkin would it be ok to pull out the springs? just run the shocks.. the springs don't do much as it is.. there way to soft.. and like the G2 coil over set up LG motorsports makes they remove the coil also.. then this way i can put more air in and it can lift it and keep it stiff at the same time.... let me no wut u guys all think.. also if n e one has an idea with the valves bleeding so fast.. i guess the best thing would be to find a gas station with a the gauge built into the compressor?? thanx for n e help

ta12sec

iTrader: (3)

I wouldnt IF your shock leaks (and they will) you will be sitting on the axle also having no springs would allow your axle to shift in corners (not fun)

Zo6Killer

Hijackers suck for handling anyways, now spring removal = bye bye comfortable ride/decent handling. Good luck getting stright line traction, too. Leave them on, IMO.

TravWS6

thanx for the replys.. good points! ill leave em on n try using a better method for filling them up

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You would have to run a lot of pressure, those
springs are holding up about 400lb apiece. The
shock mounts bearing all the load would put a
lot of strange torque on the axle tube and having
the entire rear end weight as a bending moment
on those lower shock studs, and the relatively
thin upper mount sheet metal, I think is a bad
idea.

Dunno about that "suck for handling" bit; I find
mine are no worse than the stock shocks and
while perhaps not as firm as Bilsteins, that's an
***-pounding I can do without. I think the rate
is fine (seems properly damped, no bounce).

PeeDee

TravWS6,
Glad to hear you got your shocks. Here are some pointers on solving your problems:
Air leaking out as fast as it goes in- You have probably bent the center pin on the fill valve(schrader valve) and it is stuck on the plastic edge of the valve- take a small pair of needle nose pliers and straighten the pin up so that it moves freely- then it will seal and stop leaking when you stop applying air. I did the same thing and was frustated until I figured it out.
25 psi before seeing any movement- you have probably got a tie- wrap too tight on one of the lines or have a kink somewhere- make sure the wraps are just tight enough to position the line, not crush them, and they are routed smoothly.
These shocks respond to very small amounts of air- slight touch on the fill valve will drop the pressure very quickly. Use a air line with built in gage- not quite so touchy.
DO NOT remove rear springs- loss of air in shocks could cause major problems. The upper shock mount- metal- will not support the weight of the car for very long and will tear out of the body.
Like JimmyBlu said- handling is as good as original shocks- without all the *** pounding.
Take your time and look at things carefully- sure will like the end result.
PeeDee

TravWS6

hmm so there is a valve pin in vavle stems? i swear i looked straight thro them before i put them on.. and still saw nothing.. i'll take another look tho.. i also have the individual fill kit.. and there both doing the same thing.. i'll check the lines also.. i'll get back to u guys in a bit.

TravWS6

ok figured it out! i picked up the little pins that go in the vavles at my local parts store.. they just screw in like ur regular tire valve.. that solves the hard part. thanx again for the help

PeeDee

Cool....Play with different pressures until you find the ride & look you want.
PeeDee

TravWS6

the sh*ty part about these things.. i cant get the look i want.. the more air i put in it lifts the rear end to high for my liking.. but then not enough air and it bottoms out like stock if not worse..