Anyone install a stall themselves?
#1
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Anyone install a stall themselves?
I am looking at getting a stall and I am pretty well with my tools and all that but just very Leary about doing a stall by myself. Has anyone done this that would maybe be willing to help? I would have access to a frame or drive on lift and tools. I am in killeen fort hood area. I don't have a stall yet but I am just looking to see if there would be help available before I buy one. I can supply beer and maybe some cash
#4
Remove Transmission Dipstick
Disconnect Battery
Disconnected Intake coupler to throttle body
Drain Transmission fluid
Disconnect Oil level connector
Remove Starter bolts and pull starter down passed the Trans cooler lines and let it hang with wire intact
Remove Three 15mm Bolts from Flexplate to Converter
Remove Shifter cable from Shift Shaft Arm
Remove Two 13mm Bolts holding the Shifter Cable Bracket
Remove TQ arm (pivot differential to get bolts out)
Remove driveshaft (some fluid may leak out of back of transmission)
Loosen Exhaust Clamps
Support Transmission
Remove Transmission Cross Member
Lower Transmission
Remove TQ Arm Mount
Disconnect Wiring Connectors to Transmission and O2 Sensors
Disconnect Transmission Cooler Lines
Remove Transmission to Engine Bolts (There are Eight 13mm Bolts)
Perform Tug Job and Tranny shall come with ease
Disconnect Battery
Disconnected Intake coupler to throttle body
Drain Transmission fluid
Disconnect Oil level connector
Remove Starter bolts and pull starter down passed the Trans cooler lines and let it hang with wire intact
Remove Three 15mm Bolts from Flexplate to Converter
Remove Shifter cable from Shift Shaft Arm
Remove Two 13mm Bolts holding the Shifter Cable Bracket
Remove TQ arm (pivot differential to get bolts out)
Remove driveshaft (some fluid may leak out of back of transmission)
Loosen Exhaust Clamps
Support Transmission
Remove Transmission Cross Member
Lower Transmission
Remove TQ Arm Mount
Disconnect Wiring Connectors to Transmission and O2 Sensors
Disconnect Transmission Cooler Lines
Remove Transmission to Engine Bolts (There are Eight 13mm Bolts)
Perform Tug Job and Tranny shall come with ease
#5
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Just make sure the converter is fully seated in the trans. Bolt the trans up then push the converter as far away from the flexplate as possible. You can measure the gap (between the converter & flexplate) now with a feeler gauge. If the gap is more than 3/16", use a spacer. The gap should be no less than 3/32". Request a couple different size spacers from whoever supplies your converter. Don't forget to put a quart of fluid in the converter before sliding it in the trans. It's not hard to get right and it is important. You don't want to trash your pump because you didn't feel like properly spacing the converter. Best of luck with it.
#7
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I replaced my stock converter with a vigilante and the only issue I ran into was the stock bolts were too long and didn't realize until I started it up. I got lucky, I guess, and didn't bust up anything and was able to replace the bolts with shorter ones via the inspection/starter hole.
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#8
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Its not hard, but like they said spacing is important. To much and you pull the converter to the flywheel and you can sheer the pump ears. Not enough and the converter can push on the thrust bearing in the motor.
#9
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This might help you out. I did this with no hands but my own and tools.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ll-thread.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ll-thread.html
#10
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This might help you out. I did this with no hands but my own and tools.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ll-thread.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ll-thread.html
#12
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im not worried about pulling everything im just worried about getting the spacing correct but senical link made me more confident... not sure if this is going to happen soon or not though... ive got to buy new tires lol