Carbed LS3 foxbody
#1
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Well I havent started a build thread in the conversion fourm just thought id post over here instead....Anyways ive posted on here before in the carb fourm with my current setup i have in my 78 nova.It was getting to the point where the nova was gonna have to have a cage and some serious weight reduction to better the track times I was wanting.It was gonna be pretty expensive and time consuming.I just got done doing a 5.3 swap into a 84 foxbody for a friend and was familar with what had to be done with that.Turns out that I ran across a roller 87 mustang with a cage some serious
suspension work and a built 8.8,weld wheels on craigslist.All for a price I couldnt turn down.So ive gotten started getting it ready for the LS3 and TH350 from the nova.Hoping it should get into the high 6's in the 1/8th.Best time for the nova was 7.20s so it should do it.I'll try to post a few pics of it.
Plan on using the new swap mounts and headers that BRP have for the foxbodys.Should have the engine out of the nova ready to drop in the mustang in 2 or 3 weeks.Ive already got most of the the wiring(the entire wiring harness was remove from the car when i got it
Blessing in diguse tho cause I got it cut down to just what i needed
Looks very clean.) and brakes done.May try to plumb up some of the fuel system before installing it....havent saw many LS3 powered foxbodys online.any of you guys saw any?what kinda times they run?
suspension work and a built 8.8,weld wheels on craigslist.All for a price I couldnt turn down.So ive gotten started getting it ready for the LS3 and TH350 from the nova.Hoping it should get into the high 6's in the 1/8th.Best time for the nova was 7.20s so it should do it.I'll try to post a few pics of it.
Plan on using the new swap mounts and headers that BRP have for the foxbodys.Should have the engine out of the nova ready to drop in the mustang in 2 or 3 weeks.Ive already got most of the the wiring(the entire wiring harness was remove from the car when i got it
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
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#3
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8.8 31 spline strange axles,c-clip elminators,spool,3:73s,welded tubes,T/A girdle,
UPR fully adjustable upper control arms,UPR lower control arms,UPR anti-roll bar,Strange 10 way adj shocks,Kenny brown sub frame connectors.Comp Eng 6 point cage.Flamming river manual rack and steering shaft.
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Ready for some fresh under hood paint
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Got the manual brake conversion installed along with the line lock and
porportioning valve
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The 5.3 powered 84 I just got done with next to it.Its ready for paint and some wheels to be completly done.
#4
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i got a ly6 with a carb swap and a ls2 cam runs 7.30s at 96 mph in 3200 lb mustang so yha u will get in the 6 s on motor with not much at all extra
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#9
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Those pics bring back memories....
Friend of mine did a EFI, cam only LS3, best time was 10.76 in the 1/4, all motor. Got kicked. This was a full weight coupe
#10
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Well finally got my swap done.Hauled it to the exhaust shop this morning on the trailer.Drove it home after it was done.WOW is all i can say.Its amazing at what those extra couple hundred pounds less weight to haul around will do.Everything seems to work well on the car.The front needs a alignment job but other than that its all good.The BRP swap headers and mounts are pretty good stuff.Headers are little tight around some parts of the kmember but they fit very well though.[IMG]
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[/IMG]Ls1 Alternator bracket with one wire
ls1 alternator
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[/IMG]Trans cooler lines.High pressure
hoses are way better than bending up metal lines.Way safer too IMO.
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ls1 alternator
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hoses are way better than bending up metal lines.Way safer too IMO.
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#12
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Its just a 98-02 ls1 camaro alternator mount and alternator.I got the alternator off ebay as a new rebuilt one wire conversion.It works great!It was only $87.00 shipping and all.Just ran a 10 gauge wire off the output terminal stud to the battery wire on the starter and thats it.(btw it had a idler pully also on the bracket but its not needed so i cut it off.)
#15
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so this is using the stock k-member with this kit and the brp headers?
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...ory_Code=CNV19
are the brp headers necessary or can you still do the 351w swap headers with the ls1 flanges welded on? probably with shorties but no longtubes?
what oil pan did you use?
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...ory_Code=CNV19
are the brp headers necessary or can you still do the 351w swap headers with the ls1 flanges welded on? probably with shorties but no longtubes?
what oil pan did you use?
Last edited by redemn93; 11-16-2011 at 02:40 PM.
#16
#17
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so this is using the stock k-member with this kit and the brp headers?
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...ory_Code=CNV19
are the brp headers necessary or can you still do the 351w swap headers with the ls1 flanges welded on? probably with shorties but no longtubes?
what oil pan did you use?
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...ory_Code=CNV19
are the brp headers necessary or can you still do the 351w swap headers with the ls1 flanges welded on? probably with shorties but no longtubes?
what oil pan did you use?
Yeah thats the kit I used,but i bought it without the trans crossmember.I used the factory V8 tranny crossmember.Just had to cut the welds on the tubes so I could slide it forward.Main reason I did that was cause there swap kit is for a 4l60e or a t-56 and I used a th-350....As for the oil pan it is a 2004-2007 Caddy CTS-V oil pan.It clears the stock k-member very well with their engine mounts.Their headders are pretty nice too,but I think a set of 351 swap headers with LS flanges would also work and be a less expensive.I dont see why they wouldnt work.
#19
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I'll try to get some pics of it up on here in a day or two...its just a stock v8 mustang crossmember.They have two long slots cut in them where the ford trans mount bolts to the crossmember.GM trans mounts typically use one bolt in the center on the trans mount and crossmember.I just cut the center of the crossmember out and welded a pice of steel plate back in place and made one long slot as a GM trans would need.You'll have to get the engine and transmission in palce and see where to make the slot at.The crossmember kinda sets more toward the passenger side of the car so its not dead center of the crossmember as you would think.I also cut the welds on the tubes loose so I could slide the crossmember forward and back as needed.Also used solid aluminum crossmember bushings.Defiantly $26 well spent their.