LQ4 in a 1971 Nova
It's ok. I ran out of gas once because the gauge is off. I certainly wouldn't recommend doing something similar, but my options were pretty limited.
I actually had some trouble with my harness- I didn't do a good job with the fuse/relay setup, so one of my relays fried and left me stranded a couple weeks back. I didn't have much experience soldering when I modified the harness, so I was limited on what I could do with it. I picked up a power distribution box from the junkyard and am planning to extend my wiring to go through that.
I also sold my GTO and used some of the funds to buy a set of corbeau GTS II seats. I made my own brackets and finally sit nice and low in the car. They're head and shoulders better than the Pro90s I had before. And in case anyone's interested, I'm planning to have a few brackets made as an alternative to corbeau's expensive (and high) offering.
I actually had some trouble with my harness- I didn't do a good job with the fuse/relay setup, so one of my relays fried and left me stranded a couple weeks back. I didn't have much experience soldering when I modified the harness, so I was limited on what I could do with it. I picked up a power distribution box from the junkyard and am planning to extend my wiring to go through that.
I also sold my GTO and used some of the funds to buy a set of corbeau GTS II seats. I made my own brackets and finally sit nice and low in the car. They're head and shoulders better than the Pro90s I had before. And in case anyone's interested, I'm planning to have a few brackets made as an alternative to corbeau's expensive (and high) offering.
Definitely would like to see the new seats and brackets you came up with. I hate how high my seats sit. I'm a little bummed about the GTO going, but it's nice to focus on a more limited number of projects. When you say you certainly woouldn't recommend doing someting similar, what are you referring to? Building the tank like this? Running out of gas?
Haha, both. I've honestly only driven the car for a couple hundred miles (one tank) due to the wiring issue, so running out of fuel may have been a fluke. But the tray design isn't the best (I acknowledged that with my math a couple posts up), but it is adequate with a decent amount of gas in the car. The 5th-gen Camaro in-tank module looks promising, and I've seen a company (RetroFuel) that's making drop-in assemblies and full tanks. Granted, it's expensive, but looks like it works much better than the tray/baffle systems. I'm anxious to see how frojoe's setup works though (not that I'm going to do anything about it -- I'm sticking with this for a while).
Focusing on a more limited number of projects was the exact reason I sold it. I'd rather have a couple awesome cars (or one awesome and one above-average) than three mediocre ones.
Here's the seats.
Focusing on a more limited number of projects was the exact reason I sold it. I'd rather have a couple awesome cars (or one awesome and one above-average) than three mediocre ones.
Here's the seats.
Looks like you got them pretty low - that's great. Judging from the pictures I'd guess my Altima seats are about 2-3" higher than yours even after I cut up and welded new mounting brackets - it sucks riding in there at 6'2", definitely on my list of future changes.
VaporWorx also makes the stuff to retrofit a Gen5 pump into the OEM tank. JCG classics in Oxnard was building them for a little while from replacement tanks. Still pricey stuff though.
VaporWorx also makes the stuff to retrofit a Gen5 pump into the OEM tank. JCG classics in Oxnard was building them for a little while from replacement tanks. Still pricey stuff though.
The seat bases were shaved 1", and I have the sliders 1/4" above the outer mount holes (it's an original bench seat car). I've got a hands-width between my head and the headliner, and I'm 6'1".
Well, there's been interest in my '80e since I mentioned wanting to do a T56, so I need to ask:
Does anyone know what would be needed wiring-wise to go from a 4L80e to a T56?
Looks like I'll have a summer project. I still need to get out and run the car with the 80e to get a baseline. I'll make a dyno run and retune after swapping, just for ***** and grins.
Does anyone know what would be needed wiring-wise to go from a 4L80e to a T56?
Looks like I'll have a summer project. I still need to get out and run the car with the 80e to get a baseline. I'll make a dyno run and retune after swapping, just for ***** and grins.
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Well.. if you look at the T56.. there are only a few connectors to the harness, all of which you can do without.. but they to help and are usefull.
1) VSS - I don't run a VSS to the PCM in my swap and have not had any issue of low idle or dying on stopping.. but the PCM does like to know when your not moving. My problem is that I have a Viper T56 whcih uses a different VSS and signal.
2) Reverse Light Switch - Helpfull at night. I didn't run with one for a few years. Finally got around to it. Most will get out of the way anyway..LOL
3) Reverse Lockout - May have said they just slam it over, other have removed it. I have a Line Lock switch for to activate mine.
4) CAG / Skip shift - The only one that is really useless, is this one.
BC
1) VSS - I don't run a VSS to the PCM in my swap and have not had any issue of low idle or dying on stopping.. but the PCM does like to know when your not moving. My problem is that I have a Viper T56 whcih uses a different VSS and signal.
2) Reverse Light Switch - Helpfull at night. I didn't run with one for a few years. Finally got around to it. Most will get out of the way anyway..LOL
3) Reverse Lockout - May have said they just slam it over, other have removed it. I have a Line Lock switch for to activate mine.
4) CAG / Skip shift - The only one that is really useless, is this one.
BC
awesome, thanks guys. I'm sure the VSS is similar to the 80e (though it has in & output sensors). reverse lights shouldn't be a problem, just extending my current wires as necessary. I found a thread with some good info (albeit as it relates to an F body). Looks like I'll need the PCM reflashed.
Side question -- any idea on stock master cylinder vs. tick performance (or other aftermarket)? I hear the F-body T56's are a bitch to bleed and don't like to go into 3rd/4th at higher RPMs.
Side question -- any idea on stock master cylinder vs. tick performance (or other aftermarket)? I hear the F-body T56's are a bitch to bleed and don't like to go into 3rd/4th at higher RPMs.
Yup.. re-tune for the T56... Yes. the F-body master has/had a problem. Many did the Drill mod to open up the restricted flow and it resolved the problem.
I brought a new Master on my Chevelle swap, Didn't do the mod, but have had no issue with 6k shifts.
What I did to Bleed the system, I drilled a hole in the Trans Tunnel that lined up with the bleed screw and stick a socket on a extention, insert and bleed the system. It is a one man bleed job at that point.. Just step on the Clutch pedal, reach down, turn the handle and repeat a few time and done ! The just stick a rubber plug in the hole.
BC
I brought a new Master on my Chevelle swap, Didn't do the mod, but have had no issue with 6k shifts.
What I did to Bleed the system, I drilled a hole in the Trans Tunnel that lined up with the bleed screw and stick a socket on a extention, insert and bleed the system. It is a one man bleed job at that point.. Just step on the Clutch pedal, reach down, turn the handle and repeat a few time and done ! The just stick a rubber plug in the hole.
BC
I have a stock master and have no issues shifting at redline. The problem is, when you go to an aftermarket clutch with a heavier spring rate (pressure plate) then that of say an LS6 you start to have issues. This came from Johnny, owner of Tick Performance. As far as bleeding is concerned, buy a remote bleeder and you never have to crawl under the car again to bleed the master out. The only issue I ran into when bleeding the clutch master was the pedal wasn't coming far enough back to allow new fluid in. Once I removed the rubber bumper from my pedal bracket the master/slave bled perfect.
Do you have any photos of your seat brackets? Where or how did Corbeau shave another inch off the bottom? I'm thinking I'll start keeping an eye out for a pair of GTS IIs for mine.
I have nothing technical to offer, but I am jealous as hell of your summer project. Good luck and carry on!
I have nothing technical to offer, but I am jealous as hell of your summer project. Good luck and carry on!
Last edited by -TheBandit-; Apr 12, 2012 at 01:11 PM.
Clint, I'm still finalizing the design. The driver's seat currently has 3/16" thick by 2" wide plate steel, with some holes drilled in it to bolt it to the seat and the floor (you can see it at the bottom of the pic below). The passenger's side has a couple aluminium pieces I CAD'd and had water-jetted. I'm working on iteration 3, a fully boxed design to assist in installation, especially drilling the floor. The first design flexed too much due to the location of the inner floor-mount holes. I've since moved the inner floor mounting points to directly under the seat rail (the far left holes have been removed). I'm planning on selling them if you're interested. It'll be MUCH less expensive and MUCH lower than Corbeau's brackets ($125 apiece, btw).
Corbeau will shave the seat bases up to 1" for $45, if I remember correctly.
FYI - I have a to clean up my LS harness first, THEN I'll start looking into the T56 swap.
bczee, I like your setup. I've got some time to figure out the direction I'm going, so I'll keep that and the drill mod in mind.
Corbeau will shave the seat bases up to 1" for $45, if I remember correctly.
FYI - I have a to clean up my LS harness first, THEN I'll start looking into the T56 swap.
bczee, I like your setup. I've got some time to figure out the direction I'm going, so I'll keep that and the drill mod in mind.
Last edited by hookemdevils22; Apr 12, 2012 at 05:08 PM.
Yes. Thus the 'hockey stick' design for the forward bracket. Inner floor mounts will need to be drilled if it's an original bench seat car. I haven't looked into bucket seat cars.
Made it to the track on Friday night. It was quite disappointing, to say the least. She was running a consistent 12.7-12.8s at 110-111 mph. 60' times were 2.1-2.2. This on 255 MT ET Streets at ~17-18 psi. DA was about 3200' per Drag Times, which gives me a corrected 12.25ish at 115ish, which I guess is good given the lack of traction. I spun the tires hard on every run, even the last when I tried to baby it off the line. It also pulled to the left a couple times, which I think was due to the lack of clearance between my driver's side fender and the tire (less than a finger's width at rest). I'll be back in a couple weeks, though it's certainly not getting any cooler, which won't help my times. But at least I'll be able to tune the suspension a little more and put the rear up a tick to get it off the tire.
On a positive note, a buddy came along and brought his GoPro and mount, so I'll have a couple videos from the side of the car. We also met some guys with an AMG E55 that got a sweet fish eye video of one of my runs from the other lane.
On a positive note, a buddy came along and brought his GoPro and mount, so I'll have a couple videos from the side of the car. We also met some guys with an AMG E55 that got a sweet fish eye video of one of my runs from the other lane.
