Royal Purple oil report
Aluminum: 6
Chromium: 3
Iron: 33
Copper: 80
Lead: 7
Tin: 3
Molybdenum: 108
Nickel:1
Manganese: 4
Silver: 0
Titanium: 0
Potassium: 0
Boron: 13
Silicon: 15
Sodium: 661
Calcium: 1415
Magnesium: 814
Phosphorus: 773
Zinc: 998
Barium: 0
SUS Viscosity @ 210F: 57.7
Flashpoint: 400F
Fuel %: <0.05
Antifreeze: 0
Water: 0
Insolubles: < 0.5
We are not sure what additives Royal Purple 5W/30, uses but we strongly suspect the copper and sodium are from the oil. Certainly molybdenum and the elements from calcium on down the list are additives. Sodium is an element common to ethylene glycol. Since we see no other signs of contamination problem, we will go with sodium being an oil additive for now. All metals other than copper read at normal levels. Iron was a little higher than expected but was not up in the problem range after 5,600 miles oil use. Air and oil firtration are okay.
Corrrected phosphorus number!
<small>[ July 31, 2002, 08:43 AM: Message edited by: FastAl ]</small>
Thanks much,
Richard
I'm surprised that this 5w30 held it's viscosity a bit better than Trevor's 10w30, although RP 5w30 might start out at a higher viscosity at 100c (some oil makers do that since they know the 5w30 will thin out quicker) It is still almost a 20 weight oil though.
I'm surprised the lead isn't higher with the iron and copper being so high.
Also of note, the 400F flash point. Pretty low IMO. Havoline synthetic 10w30 has a flash point of 496!! Even Havoline dino is at 453F.
I will make a point here. Those that think they can't go more than 3k on an oil because of the contaminents, just look at his numbers. Almost no fuel or insolubles, and no antifreeze or water at all. So not as much stuff gets in there as you think.
I'm curious about the silicon level. Are you using a K&N filter? An OEM air filter will show lower silicon levels, as it lets in less dirt than a K&N. If you are running an OEM, perhaps you live in a dusty area? It's not that bad of a number, just a bit higher than I usually see on a 5k run.
Thanks for posting this by the way! I hope that more and more people here get into oil analysis. It really does help others decide what oil to use and what interval to run too.
<small>[ July 31, 2002, 05:04 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>
<small>[ July 31, 2002, 05:09 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>
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Those Cu numbers look right in line with all of the oil analyses I've seen on low mileage LS1's. It should come down in time. How many miles are on your car?
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2000 Z28 with about 30,600 miles when this sample was taken. Most of my driving is a 40 mile round trip on rural type highways. I have around a dozen 1/4 passes. At least once or twice a week I do a short WOT blast if traffic allows <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I'm a bit worried about the high copper myself, but since iron was good not too worried.
Patman, who would you recommend for oil reports and do they have a website?
Normally I only go about 3-4k per oil change, but this one I kept putting off because a local shop was telling me my heads and cam would be in soon.
<small>[ July 31, 2002, 10:18 AM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/terry.html
As far as RP's flashpoint, their website used to list it as 400F, and this oil analysis report backs that up. Perhaps the 455 is for the new SL formulation. It'll be interesting to see oil analysis results on the newer stuff, to see if it's any better or not. Hopefully it is.
http://www.boomspeed.com/pats_ws6/
Car is a 2000 Trans Am WS6 and I've always used Mobil 1 206 filters. I also have a K & N air filter as well. All driving at time of these tests were mixed highway and city miles, about 35 miles a day, with 25 or so runs down the quarter mile.
<strong>The bottom line is that oil analysis is a waste of time and money. You'll never here that from the labs though.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Explain why you think it's a waste? It is very helpful in determining what is going on inside your engine, plus it can help you determine whether or not your choice in oils is good, and whether or not you've gone too far on your intervals (or could go further) Oil analysis is not for everyone, but that doesn't mean it isn't useful.
has anyone blown their motor because they werent running the best synthetic?
(not that i would do it) but i be that if i used store brand 79 cent a quart oil every 3k miles and went to the track every weekend for 100k miles the motor would be fine.
has anyone blown their motor because they werent running the best synthetic?
(not that i would do it) but i be that if i used store brand 79 cent a quart oil every 3k miles and went to the track every weekend for 100k miles the motor would be fine. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Don't know, but after spending $25k on the car and who knows how much on mods I don't see saving a few bucks on oil as very smart. Of course, to each their own <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<strong>has any of you gye's every heard of shafer Oil i heard some gye's was raveing over it?????????? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Schaeffers is an excellent oil! As a matter of fact, I have a case of their 10w30 blend in my basement, ready to go in my car on the next oil change! I have heard great things about this oil, and have seen oil analysis results where this blend has gone beyond 10k and still is in great shape. Yet when you buy it in bulk it's less than $3 a quart! It's a very good blend, using 25% PAO base oil along with a nice dose of moly. Their additive package is very well balanced, and this oil won't oxidize quickly and it's TBN stays strong for a while. It is better than any of the store bought synthetics, by a longshot. Schaeffers has been in business for 162 years, so they know their stuff. Most people haven't heard of them since they don't mass market their stuff, they sell mostly to industrial places, and farmers.
<strong>hey
has anyone blown their motor because they werent running the best synthetic?
(not that i would do it) but i be that if i used store brand 79 cent a quart oil every 3k miles and went to the track every weekend for 100k miles the motor would be fine.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It is true, any oil changed at 3k intervals will easily get you to the 100k mark without an oil related engine failure. However those that would like to go beyond 100k probably want to choose an oil with a better additive package than those cheap oils. You will see more engine wear with a cheap oil changed at 3k intervals than you would with a very high quality oil changed at 10k intervals.


