stroker crank
stroker crank ok so i never thought too much about it until tonite but how does it work? asuming you have the same rod and piston and use a longer stroke your piston is goana come out of the hole that much...you cant go down more without it commin up the same amount...in confused
Rod length does not change with stroke. You normally use a 6.125 for a stock stroke crank with piston designed for it or a 6.125 for and aftermarket longer/shorter stroke crank and piston designed for it. But you can use the stock rod on a stock crank and a "stroker" crank as well. The difference in length is taken up by the compression height of the piston.
Rod/stroke ratio is not physics. It is merely a formula. Rod angularity and deeper subjects such as dwell are. But in most applications, people normally do not care to think about the other options.
Since a crankshaft goes in a circle, yes, that means it goes up the same amount it goes down by OVER stock stroke. It also goes side to side more. Alot of people dont realize that part, but it is completely happening. It is a circle after all and not a cylinder on the crank movement.
Rod/stroke ratio is not physics. It is merely a formula. Rod angularity and deeper subjects such as dwell are. But in most applications, people normally do not care to think about the other options.
Since a crankshaft goes in a circle, yes, that means it goes up the same amount it goes down by OVER stock stroke. It also goes side to side more. Alot of people dont realize that part, but it is completely happening. It is a circle after all and not a cylinder on the crank movement.
so if you make the piston shorter and have a longer stroke doesnt that equal the same amount as a stock stroke and longer piston?
i only brought this up because i was thinking of sticking a bigger crank in my motor that has a stock crank now...guess thats a no go
i only brought this up because i was thinking of sticking a bigger crank in my motor that has a stock crank now...guess thats a no go
You cannot have a stock stroke and a "longer piston" because the piston would pop out of the hole.
You can do that but you need 2 things. Decide on the stroke. For your engine i would recommend 4" max. That will build a 383. Then you will need a piston that will work with whichever rod you choose to use. either your stock length 6.100 rod or a 6.125 rod. This will help you decide.
We can offer a pretty good "budget" rotating assembly at $1800 that will get you the rods, bearings, rings, pistons, and crank that you need. To make sure the new crank is properly weight matched to the new pistons and rods, we offer balancing for $200 more. This includes a callies compstar C series crank, manley pistons, ackerly and childs rings, and forged rods 6.125.
Completely set up from us, so all you would have to worry about is a machine shop to put it in and clearance for the extra stroke. Then you are done.
You can do that but you need 2 things. Decide on the stroke. For your engine i would recommend 4" max. That will build a 383. Then you will need a piston that will work with whichever rod you choose to use. either your stock length 6.100 rod or a 6.125 rod. This will help you decide.
We can offer a pretty good "budget" rotating assembly at $1800 that will get you the rods, bearings, rings, pistons, and crank that you need. To make sure the new crank is properly weight matched to the new pistons and rods, we offer balancing for $200 more. This includes a callies compstar C series crank, manley pistons, ackerly and childs rings, and forged rods 6.125.
Completely set up from us, so all you would have to worry about is a machine shop to put it in and clearance for the extra stroke. Then you are done.
You could but it's not really feasible. Shelf pistons wouldn't really accomodate a stock rod and stroker crank.
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Verdad Gallardo I imagine that raising the pin height has a little more to do with making sure the piston does not break through the head first off. Most aftermarket pistons are designed with ZERO deck in mind, but they can stick out up to .009 or so. When you take into account that measurement, it helps you check in the right head gasket thickness, which is where the rest of the quench factor comes in at.
When we built my wifes 489 BBC, we went with a 1/4" longer rod also. The piston pin moved up in the piston 3/8". 1/4" stroker (1/8 up and 1/8 down) with a 6.385 rod (stock is 6.135). All this fit in a 454 block.
We used the 496 kit but .030 over instead of .060 over.
http://ohiocrank.com/chevbb_rotate.html
We used the 496 kit but .030 over instead of .060 over.
http://ohiocrank.com/chevbb_rotate.html
I imagine that raising the pin height has a little more to do with making sure the piston does not break through the head first off. Most aftermarket pistons are designed with ZERO deck in mind, but they can stick out up to .009 or so. When you take into account that measurement, it helps you check in the right head gasket thickness, which is where the rest of the quench factor comes in at.
