Nice intake manifold... - The ITB thread
Originally Posted by 30thta436
They fit under the cowl of an Fbody fine. I have test fitted one. It will be on and tuned next week.
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Originally Posted by J-Rod
Update.
I found out that Sam is also doing his own ITB manifold now. Its a cast unit with lots of neat features. I don't have pics yet. But I hear its pretty slick.
I found out that Sam is also doing his own ITB manifold now. Its a cast unit with lots of neat features. I don't have pics yet. But I hear its pretty slick.
Thanks!! TECH Addict
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Originally Posted by 30thta436
They fit under the cowl of an Fbody fine. I have test fitted one. It will be on and tuned next week.
Here is some pics of it with our air filter solution.
Here is some pics of it with our air filter solution.
Any updates??
Here is some pics of it on the car. It is just sitting there not bolted down. I have to do a little clearance work on the filter covers. They are hitting the valve cover spacers. No big deal, I just have to trim them up a little.
I like the filter setup. Are you gonna try to get cold air to it? I don't see how it's possible without the Harrop type enclosure losing some hp. Maybe using the cowl somehow.
I don't think that will be an issue once it is moving. The enclosures that harrop has really knocks the power out of the intake. The car has a mecham hood on it. So it has air blowing in the engine bay from the raim air hood. It also has heat extractors in the hood which are right over the filters. So hopefully between the two it will be ok.
We will see.
We will see.
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Alot of us with open element carb filters found they could actually make more power
than a enclosure with two tubes to it.
If they are not getting enough air under movement, a properly designed cowl hood will create a high pressure area forcing air under the hood...
He's going to be straight.
Some of us where concerned with the air filter being so close to the "bell mouth entry" and would've preferered the filter 2" away or so, by way so of some "spacer".
Is all I was saying,
Its going to make power thats for sure.
With that much money on the intake, I would not doubt that my guy had his heads flowed with the intake off and with the intake on to show how little the intake knocks off the flow...
than a enclosure with two tubes to it.
If they are not getting enough air under movement, a properly designed cowl hood will create a high pressure area forcing air under the hood...
He's going to be straight.
Some of us where concerned with the air filter being so close to the "bell mouth entry" and would've preferered the filter 2" away or so, by way so of some "spacer".
Is all I was saying,
Its going to make power thats for sure.
With that much money on the intake, I would not doubt that my guy had his heads flowed with the intake off and with the intake on to show how little the intake knocks off the flow...
I plan on tuning it with the filters on it. But I will take them off for the final run to see what the difference is. If it is big I will look at extending the area between the filter and tubes.
Being that you are putting that intake on a t/a, maybe a meecham hood with the 4 heat extractor ports would help.. they supposedly allow air to move more freely thru the engine bay, probably help get cooler air in the engine bay. Just a thought.
I do like the filter setup.. but I think with ET heads, or any other head with a raised lip for the valve cover to clear big rockers... the clearance would be more of a problem then you are seeing.
I do like the filter setup.. but I think with ET heads, or any other head with a raised lip for the valve cover to clear big rockers... the clearance would be more of a problem then you are seeing.
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Supposedly heat extractor hoods "dont work"
Cowl hoods do work, and its not by letting hot air out the engine bay thru the cowl.
Its by creating a high pressure area at the windshield, and air is going to want to go thru the cowl into the engine bay.
Cowl hoods do work, and its not by letting hot air out the engine bay thru the cowl.
Its by creating a high pressure area at the windshield, and air is going to want to go thru the cowl into the engine bay.
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
30th - Did you have any clearance issues with the KR sensors, oil pressure sensor, etc.. Is there any wiring that had to be extended?
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I do like the filter setup.. but I think with ET heads, or any other head with a raised lip for the valve cover to clear big rockers... the clearance would be more of a problem then you are seeing.
Originally Posted by 30thta436
It appears to clear all of the sensors. The intake is just sitting there. I have not hooked up the wiring, but it looks like all of the wiring will plug in just fine.
If you notice in the pictures there are valve cover spacers on there to clear the Jesel rockers.
If you notice in the pictures there are valve cover spacers on there to clear the Jesel rockers.
I see them now... my bad for not seeing them before. I assume the intake was designed for stock valvecover height?
I have head about the heat extractor hoods not working.. but I've seen one on a car, and believe me, when the radiator fan turns on, lots of hot air comes out fo the extractors..... and I'm sure air comes out of there when the car is moving... that being said I think they work, at least for removing under hood heat.
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QUestion when car is moving, do air want to move "in" the "heat extractor vents or "out".
I believe you when the car is setting still that radiator fan air is going to want to push air out.
When the car is moving is it lower pressure under the hood than "outside" and air wants to go "in" the vents. Or is it higher pressure under the hood than "outside" and air wants to go "out" of the vents.
I believe you when the car is setting still that radiator fan air is going to want to push air out.
When the car is moving is it lower pressure under the hood than "outside" and air wants to go "in" the vents. Or is it higher pressure under the hood than "outside" and air wants to go "out" of the vents.