I tried this in the gen 3 forums and got no replies.. I don't think it would take more than 1 reply from here

I'm going to pull my 86mm Typhoon this year to go through it with a dremel. I plan on port/gasket matching, opening up the mouth for a larger TB, and cleaning any casting flash. This manifold has a detatchable bottom plate so I can get to the runners..

.. my question to you guys is.. which areas of the runners and other parts of the manifold should I open up, and which areas are untouchable?

Thanks guys!

 

I was wondeirng what areas totouch up on a stock plastic intake .

 

The walls are too thin on a stock intake. You can't touch any useful part of it. It's like a Mormon girl.

 

QUOTE=3.4camaro]The walls are too thin on a stock intake. You can't touch any useful part of it. It's like a Mormon girl.[/QUOTE]
i know the heads are very sensitive to flow but on the intake manifold by just taking out a bit mess up theflow to the head or would it bemore like porting a throttle body ?

 

The only thing I think you might be able to touch is the casting flash.

 

my intake is aluminum, I'm hoping to open it up just a TAD BIT at least

 

Just match the ports to the gaskets and remove casting flash. Then smooth everything out, so the air is never interupted.

 

Your best bet may be to grind the typhoon to dust and replace it with an ls6 or fast. I have read NOTHING but problems with them.

 

he didn't ask ways to destroy it. Keep your posts constructive, or funny. Or both.

 

What is a good tool to get up into the runners and pendulum to clean up the casting flash?

Keith

 

I have had no problems. Teflon tape on the AN fittings for the fuel line, and the new gasket they supply doesn't have the sealing problem the first run did. Plus, it actually does flow a bit more than the LS6 from what myself and a couple local people have found. It also won't explode into little pieces if a 200 shot backfires.

 

If you mean the plenum, I'd like to know as well.

 

Snap-On, and I'm sure other companies, make pen-sized die grinders that won't remove material very fast, but they will fit into some very tight spots. They are a LOT smaller than a Dremel. Maybe something like that would work?

 

What about the Extrude Hone type of stuff? For an aluminum intake it should help shouldnt it? Would eat up a plastic on though.

 

Bump for some hand porters replies, I would like to know as well. PP 96mm intake seems as it could possibly surpass the FAST with a good p&p job since their 86mm supposedly beat out an LS6 intake out of the box.

 

I'd like to chime in if you all don't mind. I have a habit of not being able to shut my mouth, so if this runs long, sorry.

Years ago I was hell bent on being an automotive machinist in the racing industry. Two divorces later I gave up.

I learned quite a bit though.

I worked for Bill Craddock Racing Heads in San Dimas CA for awhile. Bill was the shop "fore skin" for Brad Anderson, the Top Fuel Jedi knight.

Anyways, I had the opportunity to work on some kinky stuff. One day a pair of heads show up from AFR. This is back when Ken Sperling was still alive.

These heads were unlike anything I had seen before. The surfaces were not baby butt smooth and being ignorant I asked how come.

"Think golf ball" is the response I got. So, I did some research.

Golf ***** look like they suffer terrible hail damage right? Why is that? It's called the boundary layer. Air has electrostatic properties. It "sticks" to things. This creates drag. NASA experimented with trying to get around this by drilling a zillion little holes on an air plane wing and applying a vacuum to each one of them. The idea being to "pull" the laminar airflow to the surface of the wing so that it followed the contours and reduced drag simultaneous to increasing lift.

The dimpled golf ball is a poor mans version of this to achieve the same thing. It reduces drag and increases lift.

Now, here is where this applies to the intake ports on an engine. No, we don't want our ports to sprout wings and fly away, but we would like to see nice laminar flow characteristics down the runners.

So, were these strange looking AFR heads that had little "ice cream scoop" marks all inside them the result of sloppy porting or were they on to something?

I never saw flow numbers, but debating AFR's success in drag racing and other forms of motor sports is a tough nut to crack.

My point is, so many folks want to have baby but smooth ports with the idea that they flow more.

Based on what I saw back then (early/mid 90's) I have to challenge this some.

I realize technology improves, but the basic laws of physics have been around since that bitch bit into the apple and screwed us all forever.

Some say that rough ports are to promote atomization of fuel. Well, that may be true and it would shoot us all in the foot because LS intakes run dry unless we are shootin' meth or nitrous/fuel down them.

I still think that a scruffy surface will outflow a smooth one.

Exhaust is another story.

Polish it to a mirror finish. It holds heat and heat means velocity. Blow torch exhaust temp and velocity is a wonderful thing. That makes power.

It'd be interesting to take a stock manifold and pull it on a flow bench, then scuff it up and flow it again. Then, perform a super bling high polish and flow it again.

I wonder what the results would be.

Makes interesting conversation if nothing else.

Good luck with your project and again, sorry for being long winded.

Cheers.

C

 

1997-04 GM LS-1 SSI-SERIES INTAKE MANIFOLD
• Adds 12-25 horsepower over the factory manifold
• Standard 85mm throttle body opening
• Flows approximately 15% better than Z06 manifold
• Made from lightweight 356 aluminum
• Factory style o-ring gasket design
• Standard titanium powder coat finish
• Polished finish now available
http://www.bbkperformance.com/produc...manifold.shtml

I didnt think there was much you could do to them, to increase flow. especially dangerous if using nos.

 

Why would it be dangerous if using "nos" (or any other brand of nitrous, for that manner).

 

Naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwsssssssssssssss s?

Barf!

It's NITROUS, SILLY GAS, BOTTLE FED, or hell, even SQUEEZE or JUICIN' I guess.

NAAAAAWWWWSSS is RICER Fast/Furious Talk!

Shame on you who use it!

Imagine how NOS (N. . .O. . .S) feels having their name drug through rice now. . .

 

Actually - just the OPPOSITE. If you want to run safer with FI or nitrous, an aluminum intake is the way to go. The various styles of 'plastic' intakes can & will explode under high boost or a nitrous backfire. If you've ever seen a factory plastic intake after a backfire you'd know what I mean. When it frags - makes a hell of a mess and possibly damages other comonents (such as your radiator)

The BBK intake is nice because it uses the factory o-ring style gaskets instead of an old style flat gasket - but the PP intake has a removeable bottom that alllows for easy porting for even more flow.