AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I had both The LS1 and LT1 Ram air set ups and the LT1 Seems much better, the LS1 WS6 is just a bigger slot than the reg LS1. The LT1 Ws6 takes air into the entire face of the filter.
The car Im talking about is an LS1. I had the car at the strip every other night since the day I bought it brand new. Stock it turned 13.8s when I got rid of it it was running 12.8s with only the stuff done in my previous post. I still have the time slips somewhere if you think im lieing. RAM AIR WORKS WITHOUT A DOUBT IN MY MIND whether its forced air or cooler air, the set up works better than the standard stuff.
This is the set up i used

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Less or no air box volume on the LT1 means less area for the air to pressurize, cooler air maybe but ram air not as good as the LS1 style.

I've seen 2 tenths and 2 mph from sealing of the air box with an FTRA. I know it works, I just don't think that the LT1 WS6 hood is better than the LS1 with something like a BG (or PG) ram air kit in place.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Wouldnt it be pressurized trough the tb then forced directly to the intake?
. Logicaly thinking air going into the air box w baffles, past the filter would disrupt air flow rather than improve it or ram it in. With the LT1 there really is not to much in the way of the ram air, just the filter and MAF screen. Its A straight shot from the hood into the engine.
Where the LS1 Needs to go through the hood system then through a slot, up threw the filter then the airbox and baffles then the MAF and finally to the motor. That is not direct . Ram air yes but the factory set up on the LT1 is true ram air IMO.
Either way ram air def. works better. Can a LS1 be modified to work better probably but show me proof.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Ok, I see what you're saying. I was referring to baffles removed and lower airbox sealed to the hood on the LS1 WS6 hood.

My thinking is that the restriction of the air filter itself is enough to stop the movement of air into the hood. Therefore, the space in front of the filter should be the area to contain the pressurized air (which is very little on the LT1 hood). I see these ram air kits just helping the air filter be more efficient in the way of air flow and not actually forcing air into the cylinders.

Now if we were just talking intake tract and not ram air, then I would agree LT1 WS6 is better, but again I think that the scoops on that hood air just to far out of the air. If they were more forward or bigger, then I think they would be great. Like some of the aftermarket LS1 ram air hoods, that use LS1 WS6 style hood scoops, but with an LT1 WS6 style filter.

Jon

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

yes that would be ideal the LS1 hood with an LT1 WS6 ram air. Too bad they never made it that way..... but should have!!!!!!!!!!!!
So If both intake systems came stock on either engine wich would you want? IMO i think the LT1 set up is the best.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Some of the aftermarket LS1 hoods are that way. And I've personally seen an suncoast hooded LS1 transam, gets outrun by an FTRAed WS6 with less mods. So regardless I'd still pick the ram air kits over the hoods, and I did.

Dan Stewart

I'd rather see this performed with a dp cell than with a manometer...

Not saying I don't believe you, I just know that manometers are nowhere near close to accurate in their readings. It is very easy for one to be several inches off.

What kind of manometer did you use? Liquid? Digital? Brand?

zjt

iTrader: (1)

ummm... you need to convert to kilo-Pascals (kPa) to get it in to metric. psi = pounds per square inch, those are all standard measurements (duh)

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

chrs1313,

Thanks for taking the time to do this study. It's great information to add to my archives.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

i used a digital...will get the brand name and model from work tomorrow...i could could hook up a magnahelic gauge up to it that is mechanical that ranges from 0-10inches of H2O...they run around $75...very accurate

manometer is a dwyer digital was around $250...they make some pretty good ****

musclecar6941

if i remove the factory airbox will it harm the car?> i got a aftermarket ram air hood for my 1998, will the dirt get into the massairflow sensor?

musclecar6941

if i remove the factory airbox will it harm the car?> i got a aftermarket ram air hood for my 1998, will the dirt get into the massairflow sensor?

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Does it not have a filter? Is it like FASTFATBOY's?

99bowtieZ

Whatever you want to call it "ram air" would help boosted applications exponentially because it negates the work the engine has to do while the vehicle is in motion. It isn't as much 'ramming' the air as it is providing it a lot easier than the intake having to produce a vacuum on its own under the hood as in a stock application.

PREDATOR-Z

Actualy it does Chris, instead of drawing air from bottom, you draw it through a Ultra Z hood from top, I built a setup witha friend on his Z and he gained 2.1 mph on back to back runs.
1st with hood inlet sealed (also higher IATs, and then open).

You tests are sweet though, more professional than ours, but we figured a good 20 rwhp gain, more when the air gets colder, still upper 80s here.

Dan Stewart

I don't really prefer Dwyer. Yes, they are very good for what you pay, but not enough accuracy for my preference.

I prefer PMC, Foxboro, and Rosemount myself. They typically start at around $1000, but are deadnut accurate. Also, with a HART or Foxboro communicator, I can change the ranging, engr units, etc. with ease.

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

I agree that a proper set-up will make a positive effect on ET and MPH.
Some ram air mods like Fast Toys that bring air in from under the car, have remove some of the plastic parts that help seal the air to the radiator. That maybe why after install it is running hotter.
Also, if you remove some of that plastic that seals the radiator, you are allowing more air to enter the engine compartment, increasing aerodynamic drag.
I believe the best mod would be to seal the radiator air track while still having a ram air supply.
Finaly, has anyone tested to find the highest pressure point in f-body car? Maybe under the car, from the nose opening or a WS-6 hood with the BGR kit sealed up. The higher the pressure the more the gain.
Someone with the equipment could easy do a test going down the road at a constant air speed.
Bob

Magic Man

I haven't been on these bds for a few years but am getting back in.On this subject I have to agree with the author that it does work the only thing is how much.After all my life in electronics and aircraft I have seen things tried that did or didn't work and there were always someone that always would try to kill them on there own beliefes.Sometimes they were right and sometimes wrong but without test they just made a lot of noise and held things back.
So I had to test this idea out a few years back and tried a few things.One thing I found out was with the car ( 99 Camaro ) at a stand still and a sealed air box with the bottom open i got a small vacum at the neck of the air lid and also when the car was moving.So I cut the grill out and put in a mesh grill like it looks Mad Man did here a while back.Then put in a box and 6" aluminum tubing to the steel bumper that I cutup which put me a few inches from the grill.So now I have a closed system from the grill to the tb and started the car and once again which should have happened I had a vacum in the airbox.Then it was road test and as I thought would happen I got a positve pressure in the box.It has been as I said a few years back and don't remeber numbers but it sure didn't hurt the proformance of the car and since it made the engine work less to get air
it had to help.Now this does very little to help in town but at the track or hiway speeds it would start to come in to play.
There now I have had my say and as to the point of pressure points on these cars my other test was to see what the pressure at the base of the windshield was which surprized me was a small vacum.So I guess the cars are pretty aerodynamic.