Project Budget 10 Second Camaro Thread
The competition engineering cage only comes in mild steel. I would have ordered the S&W. They are a really good piece for the price.
Major favor... Could you please measure the total length and height of your main hoop. I just got my cage yesterday and I think they cut it too short.
Thanks.
Major favor... Could you please measure the total length and height of your main hoop. I just got my cage yesterday and I think they cut it too short.
Thanks.
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Thanks, it really needs a good buff 
Now that im out of the detailing business dont have access to that stuff anymore or let alone the patience to do it.
The reason for the radials is the goal all along has been a budget 10 second car I could drive on the street and take to the track. As a matter of fact, I currently am daily driving this car till winter comes and I pick up a beater. I actually drive 60 miles round trip 5 days a week so I got the weight down on the front as best I could without affecting safety.
The battery will be changed here soon. I actually am going with a trunk mounted kit, I just need to unbury my GTO and pull the wiring out of it since it was trunk mounted but Im going back to stock on that car. But I already have mounted the kill switch for it, just need to run the wires and get all that weight transfered to the rear.
The wheel studs for the front will be on hopefully this week. The speed shop I got the rears for only had enough for the back. They said they were going to order some more. The fronts are easy to swap out too, so no biggie. Plus if I am pulling the wheels down the road, I am gonna want those studs in front.
The cage, its mild steel. I paid 165 plus 100 shipping and I only had a little left after the wheels and want to race sometime soon, so went with this one. I took out alot of weight so a couple pounds shouldnt be a big deal.
Yeah, Ill try tomorrow and get it measured for you. Hows yours coming along by the way?
Now that im out of the detailing business dont have access to that stuff anymore or let alone the patience to do it. Cool build. I haven't read the entire thread so forgive me if this questions have been answered before.
I know you are on a budget, but those front tires weigh about 18-19lbs apiece, I used to run them. The Moroso bias-ply weigh 9-10 depending on which ones you get. That is 20lbs of unsprung weight which is huge. What made you go with the radials on the front?
I see you still rock the stock style battery. You NEED to get an odyssey PC680 or equivalent. It will shed 25-30lbs right off of the nose. Any plans for a new battery?
You are going to get booted from tech inspection for your front wheel studs being way too short. They will check this too.
Rollcage. Did you get chromoly or no? Those bolt-in chromoly cages from SW or wherever usually weigh 20-30lbs less than the mild steel ones. It's worth every penny since they typically only run $150-$200 more. $10 a lb is a good investment.
I know you are on a budget, but those front tires weigh about 18-19lbs apiece, I used to run them. The Moroso bias-ply weigh 9-10 depending on which ones you get. That is 20lbs of unsprung weight which is huge. What made you go with the radials on the front?
I see you still rock the stock style battery. You NEED to get an odyssey PC680 or equivalent. It will shed 25-30lbs right off of the nose. Any plans for a new battery?
You are going to get booted from tech inspection for your front wheel studs being way too short. They will check this too.
Rollcage. Did you get chromoly or no? Those bolt-in chromoly cages from SW or wherever usually weigh 20-30lbs less than the mild steel ones. It's worth every penny since they typically only run $150-$200 more. $10 a lb is a good investment.
The battery will be changed here soon. I actually am going with a trunk mounted kit, I just need to unbury my GTO and pull the wiring out of it since it was trunk mounted but Im going back to stock on that car. But I already have mounted the kill switch for it, just need to run the wires and get all that weight transfered to the rear.
The wheel studs for the front will be on hopefully this week. The speed shop I got the rears for only had enough for the back. They said they were going to order some more. The fronts are easy to swap out too, so no biggie. Plus if I am pulling the wheels down the road, I am gonna want those studs in front.
The cage, its mild steel. I paid 165 plus 100 shipping and I only had a little left after the wheels and want to race sometime soon, so went with this one. I took out alot of weight so a couple pounds shouldnt be a big deal.
The competition engineering cage only comes in mild steel. I would have ordered the S&W. They are a really good piece for the price.
Major favor... Could you please measure the total length and height of your main hoop. I just got my cage yesterday and I think they cut it too short.
Thanks.
Major favor... Could you please measure the total length and height of your main hoop. I just got my cage yesterday and I think they cut it too short.
Thanks.
now u need to lower it asap! I have some cut rear stock springs if you want um. There free if u make the trip out here. You would just have to figure out how to lower the front, eather buy qa1's or cut the front ones for now. Just throwin it out there.
Other then that the car looks pimp, i want the OG z28 badges myself!
Other then that the car looks pimp, i want the OG z28 badges myself!
The competition engineering cage only comes in mild steel. I would have ordered the S&W. They are a really good piece for the price.
Major favor... Could you please measure the total length and height of your main hoop. I just got my cage yesterday and I think they cut it too short.
Thanks.
Major favor... Could you please measure the total length and height of your main hoop. I just got my cage yesterday and I think they cut it too short.
Thanks.
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The reason for the radials is the goal all along has been a budget 10 second car I could drive on the street and take to the track. As a matter of fact, I currently am daily driving this car till winter comes and I pick up a beater. I actually drive 60 miles round trip 5 days a week so I got the weight down on the front as best I could without affecting safety.
The battery will be changed here soon. I actually am going with a trunk mounted kit, I just need to unbury my GTO and pull the wiring out of it since it was trunk mounted but Im going back to stock on that car. But I already have mounted the kill switch for it, just need to run the wires and get all that weight transfered to the rear.
The wheel studs for the front will be on hopefully this week. The speed shop I got the rears for only had enough for the back. They said they were going to order some more. The fronts are easy to swap out too, so no biggie. Plus if I am pulling the wheels down the road, I am gonna want those studs in front.
The cage, its mild steel. I paid 165 plus 100 shipping and I only had a little left after the wheels and want to race sometime soon, so went with this one. I took out alot of weight so a couple pounds shouldnt be a big deal.
The cage, its mild steel. I paid 165 plus 100 shipping and I only had a little left after the wheels and want to race sometime soon, so went with this one. I took out alot of weight so a couple pounds shouldnt be a big deal.
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From: Cornfields near Pontiac, IL
Just an update on build cost so far...
1994 Camaro...$3500 (Golf Mill Ford)
Summit Race Seats with leather covers (bought used) $100
Alternator Relocate/PS Delete Bracket & Belt (bought used) $75
Sheet Metal for A/C/Heat-Delete Block Off Plate (Menards) $4.60
Grant Steering Wheel...$29.95 (AutoZone)
Wheel Adapter Kit...$20.95 (AutoZone)
LS1 Lid Base...Traded for LT1 CIA
SLP Lid...$102 (Summit)
Glasstek 4 Inch Cowl...$400 (bought used)
Hooker Headers...$Free (Thanks Carri!)
EGR Block Offs...$Free (Again...Thanks Carri and Carri's Dad)
Windshild Replaced...$150
K&N Filter...$Free (Leftover from Trans Am)
ARP Extended Wheel Studs...$50 (Local Speed Shop)
DynoMax Race Magnum Mufflers...$Free (Thanks Ken!)
Dual Exhaust Pipes and Labor...$230 (Local Exhaust Shop)
Weld ProStars and Roll Bar...$1220 (Summit)
Front 165/80 Tires...$40 (Just Tires/Work Discount)
Hood Painted...$75 (Cost of Paint)
1994 Camaro...$3500 (Golf Mill Ford)
Summit Race Seats with leather covers (bought used) $100
Alternator Relocate/PS Delete Bracket & Belt (bought used) $75
Sheet Metal for A/C/Heat-Delete Block Off Plate (Menards) $4.60
Grant Steering Wheel...$29.95 (AutoZone)
Wheel Adapter Kit...$20.95 (AutoZone)
LS1 Lid Base...Traded for LT1 CIA
SLP Lid...$102 (Summit)
Glasstek 4 Inch Cowl...$400 (bought used)
Hooker Headers...$Free (Thanks Carri!)
EGR Block Offs...$Free (Again...Thanks Carri and Carri's Dad)
Windshild Replaced...$150
K&N Filter...$Free (Leftover from Trans Am)
ARP Extended Wheel Studs...$50 (Local Speed Shop)
DynoMax Race Magnum Mufflers...$Free (Thanks Ken!)
Dual Exhaust Pipes and Labor...$230 (Local Exhaust Shop)
Weld ProStars and Roll Bar...$1220 (Summit)
Front 165/80 Tires...$40 (Just Tires/Work Discount)
Hood Painted...$75 (Cost of Paint)
Nice job trying to keep the cost down. Those front tires arn't the VW cheapys, are they? The speed rating is very very low on those if they are. The tire place I bought mine from had no problem taking them back and ordering some ET Sportmans for me when I told them what I was using them for. Just trying to look out for ya. 
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Thread Starter
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From: Cornfields near Pontiac, IL
Nice job trying to keep the cost down. Those front tires arn't the VW cheapys, are they? The speed rating is very very low on those if they are. The tire place I bought mine from had no problem taking them back and ordering some ET Sportmans for me when I told them what I was using them for. Just trying to look out for ya.
id lik to know that too. i think that my skinnies hav the vw ones
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The ET Sportsmans will be speed rated much higher, but you will eat them up daily driving them. I know people who have run the "VW" tires up around 140mph. It's not like you will be sustaining those speeds for a long duration. I would think you'll be fine.
For those who don't know the VW tires are 165/85r/15 size and came on little Beetles way back when.
For those who don't know the VW tires are 165/85r/15 size and came on little Beetles way back when.
then you could get free things too. Looks like things are fallin in place Mike. To bad you couldnt make it to the show tomorrow :\
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From: Cornfields near Pontiac, IL
I ended up mounting the tach in the meantime but cracked the flat plastic dash piece while pulling the piece out. If anyone has this piece, let me know or thinking of upgrading to the LS1 dash if anyone is parting a car out.
The Nitto Drag Radials ended up coming into work the other day. Went with the 275/60R15s...
Last edited by Black94Z28; Jul 26, 2009 at 01:25 AM.
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Not letting the opti get me down, I managed to get my Nitto Drag Radials mounted on the car. They are 275/60R15s. I was thinking of going wider, but good thing I didnt as these barely fit in the wheelwell. I had to cut off the bumpstops and the tabs to clear them. The rear bumper edge comes pretty close too so I may have to heat that up and bend it back a little. I am really happy on the size though, the Nittos fill up the wheelwell and overall give it a nice beefy look.
Closeup of the wheel and tire
I also decided to take the tint off the taillights due to poor night visability and I actually now perfer the stock look on it.
Picked up a used B&M Pro Stick shifter at a swap meet. I believe it was used in a powerglide equipped car, but what is nice about these shifters is you can swap the gate plates to fit a different speed transmission. I ordered the plate for like $13 from Summit Racing.
Picked up a set of barely used MSD 8.5 plug wires with heat protectors on them for free off my friend Ken, so Ill be adding these with the Opti swap. They were on a Gen 1 SBC so they are a little longer, but Ill see how they fit and trim as necessary.
To keep the plug wires clean looking and prevent a wire touching the headers, picked up the over the valve cover wiring kit from Summit Racing.
Another "freebie part" Met a guy in the local car club who gave me a tach he never ended up using. Not sure on the brand and neither was he, but for free, cant complain. Although ended up cracking the dash panel in the process of installing so either going to recover in leather to hide the crack and the mounting base or find a new pad.
Closeup of the wheel and tire
I also decided to take the tint off the taillights due to poor night visability and I actually now perfer the stock look on it.
Picked up a used B&M Pro Stick shifter at a swap meet. I believe it was used in a powerglide equipped car, but what is nice about these shifters is you can swap the gate plates to fit a different speed transmission. I ordered the plate for like $13 from Summit Racing.
Picked up a set of barely used MSD 8.5 plug wires with heat protectors on them for free off my friend Ken, so Ill be adding these with the Opti swap. They were on a Gen 1 SBC so they are a little longer, but Ill see how they fit and trim as necessary.
To keep the plug wires clean looking and prevent a wire touching the headers, picked up the over the valve cover wiring kit from Summit Racing.
Another "freebie part" Met a guy in the local car club who gave me a tach he never ended up using. Not sure on the brand and neither was he, but for free, cant complain. Although ended up cracking the dash panel in the process of installing so either going to recover in leather to hide the crack and the mounting base or find a new pad.
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I also had some time to start tearing into the opti swap. Thankfully since I freed up ALOT of room when I did the weight reduction, I was able to strip the LT1 down to the opti in about 45 minutes, most of which was spent looking for tools in my messy garage.
Took a couple pictures of the disassembly and will snap some more when I get the new opti.
Here is the LT1 with the LS1 lid and the coolant hoses removed. Just need to pull the water pump off to get to the opti
Water pump pulled off and the opti is ready to come off. Just need to pull the crank pulley and the opti will be off and ready for the new one.
New opti should be here the first of July hopefully.
Took a couple pictures of the disassembly and will snap some more when I get the new opti.
Here is the LT1 with the LS1 lid and the coolant hoses removed. Just need to pull the water pump off to get to the opti
Water pump pulled off and the opti is ready to come off. Just need to pull the crank pulley and the opti will be off and ready for the new one.
New opti should be here the first of July hopefully.
Nice progress. I just did an Opti swap Weds night.
I think I've asked this before, but with that Grant steering wheel, while turning, you can feel the back side of it, rubbing something. What/where did you have to shim the wheel? Use washers as a shim?
I think I've asked this before, but with that Grant steering wheel, while turning, you can feel the back side of it, rubbing something. What/where did you have to shim the wheel? Use washers as a shim?
I had the same problem. With the steering wheel mounted up, take a piece of masking tape and wrap it around the adapter collar at the base by the column. Remove the adapter and I used a 4.5 disk grinder with a sanding disk on it and ground the collar down to the tape. Doesn't touch the column any more and is much easier to turn!
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95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
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I had the same problem. With the steering wheel mounted up, take a piece of masking tape and wrap it around the adapter collar at the base by the column. Remove the adapter and I used a 4.5 disk grinder with a sanding disk on it and ground the collar down to the tape. Doesn't touch the column any more and is much easier to turn!