My "REBUILD" Thread - '99 WS6 (Evil WS6)
06-03-2010, 09:24 PM
#662
I put down a littler over 410RWHP on a mustang dyno.. should be about 440-450 on a dynojet. However, when it was dynoed, he moved the throttle cable to the upper position for some reason. So the car was really at about 3/4 throttle when the pedal was fully depressed. I felt the difference first hand from flooring it on the way home, and then moving the cable to the lower position, and THEN flooring it. I almost **** my pants.
I wanna do another power run sometime soon.
lmao. That's all I was able to say to.
Lol Jonas.. A4 this, M6 that, blahblahblah
I wanna do another power run sometime soon.
lmao. That's all I was able to say to.
Lol Jonas.. A4 this, M6 that, blahblahblah
my little M6 cam only gets the job done 
06-04-2010, 03:05 AM
#664
TECH Addict
get that bish to the 1320 quick!!!! and get vids.
oh yeah brian, your old red tops are being put to good use
made 396/387. stock ls6 intake, stock 799 heads. thanks again broseph!
oh yeah brian, your old red tops are being put to good use
made 396/387. stock ls6 intake, stock 799 heads. thanks again broseph!
06-04-2010, 04:50 AM
#666
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woah....haha
glad to hear you got it all tuned up and driving right again!
im sure u will have to buy new pants now haha
what u doin on the inside of the car???
glad to hear you got it all tuned up and driving right again!
im sure u will have to buy new pants now haha
what u doin on the inside of the car???
06-04-2010, 12:03 PM
#667
OMG NO WAY"
I'll post some pics in here and make a new thread as well 
06-16-2010, 01:52 AM
#672
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98 WS6...great build! Its alot like mine actually, just a few different mods. I also took my car to Kaltech in LI. Just curious, how was the customer service? My car sat there for almost 2 months until it got done. On top of that, I was not satisfied with what I put down. Check out this thread and tell me what you think:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...hats-deal.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...hats-deal.html
11-20-2010, 02:46 PM
#677
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Greetings and felicitations to Everyone. I've finally registered to LS1TECH after years of researching the site for my own personal mods to my 2000 WS6. I think I've broken the 30 grand figure for engine mods alone so I can lament with the OP (98 WS6). The reason for the PHOEN1X handle is because the car has finally risen from the ashes of destruction and after years of upgrades I think I've finally restored the engine to where I want it after the original implosion. I have many, many experiences and I can provide helpful hints to any LS1 owners if they so desire.
In the beginnning (ta ta ta daaa) I installed a Hypertech programmer. IF YOU HAVE A STOCK ENGINE DO NOT INSTALL THIS PROGRAM. Certainly do not change the rev limiter. Stock LS1's "I" pattern connecting rods cannot handle high rpms. Okay, so the first day of beating on the car with the HT program I threw a rod bearing. ARRGGGHHHH!!
Hence the beginning of the bulletproof modifications (and I had the money and stupidity to keep spending the money to do what I wanted to do). John Saunders Racing did the rebuild. Only the heads, crank and block of the original engine remain. Competition Cams, Mahle piston kit, Clevite bearings, Centerforce clutch, Ferrea valves, Crane valve locks, Eagle connecting rods, original roller lifters, Cloyes timing set, and so on and so on ... Completed engine mods with Hedman LT headers. The engine is now bulletproof.
Installed engine in car (major charging and computer issues!!!) then added a Procharger D-1SC supercharger. If any distributor tries to tell you that you can get it done (including new balancer, injectors and fuel pump and dyno tune) for less than 10 grand they're full of crap. I have minimal boost but I also run intake air at only 46 degrees C. I finally took the car to REAL PROFESSIONALS ... RSP Motorsports in Kilworth, Ontario. Renato and Stephan did an awesome job on the dyno tune and computer set up.
Next you'll need to change the side bearings in your axle because the piece of crap Timkin bearings are just that. Go SKF. Last modification was to exhaust and I've read a plethora of threads on the issue. I decided to do my own thing. My local Meineke shop in London, Ontario did the custom exhaust using Magnaflow cats and mufflers. 3" stainless steel true duals in every respect with highflow cats and mufflers under the axles, so no crimp, no crossover pipe - which you don't need. If you have gurgling or popping just put exhaust tips that are 0.5 inches less than what you are running. That will provide sufficient back pressure without bogging down your exhaust system. I ran 3" right out because I didn't have popping issues due to the high flow nature. It sounds AWESOME and there are minimal clearance issues. It even passed MTO emissions test.
Now after months / years of reading the forum threads on this site I am somewhat confused. I see some of the numbers posted and and I know what I've done to my little Phoenix and they don't jive. You've read what I've done and my numbers are 366 HP at the rear wheels and 440 tq. Mind you I am running minimal boost, but I can still spin the wheels off in first 3 gears. I ran mid twelves on the engine mods alone before the S/C and exhaust changes. So when I read that some dude changed his cam and got into the 11's with over 400 HP I have to call BS.
In the beginnning (ta ta ta daaa) I installed a Hypertech programmer. IF YOU HAVE A STOCK ENGINE DO NOT INSTALL THIS PROGRAM. Certainly do not change the rev limiter. Stock LS1's "I" pattern connecting rods cannot handle high rpms. Okay, so the first day of beating on the car with the HT program I threw a rod bearing. ARRGGGHHHH!!
Hence the beginning of the bulletproof modifications (and I had the money and stupidity to keep spending the money to do what I wanted to do). John Saunders Racing did the rebuild. Only the heads, crank and block of the original engine remain. Competition Cams, Mahle piston kit, Clevite bearings, Centerforce clutch, Ferrea valves, Crane valve locks, Eagle connecting rods, original roller lifters, Cloyes timing set, and so on and so on ... Completed engine mods with Hedman LT headers. The engine is now bulletproof.
Installed engine in car (major charging and computer issues!!!) then added a Procharger D-1SC supercharger. If any distributor tries to tell you that you can get it done (including new balancer, injectors and fuel pump and dyno tune) for less than 10 grand they're full of crap. I have minimal boost but I also run intake air at only 46 degrees C. I finally took the car to REAL PROFESSIONALS ... RSP Motorsports in Kilworth, Ontario. Renato and Stephan did an awesome job on the dyno tune and computer set up.
Next you'll need to change the side bearings in your axle because the piece of crap Timkin bearings are just that. Go SKF. Last modification was to exhaust and I've read a plethora of threads on the issue. I decided to do my own thing. My local Meineke shop in London, Ontario did the custom exhaust using Magnaflow cats and mufflers. 3" stainless steel true duals in every respect with highflow cats and mufflers under the axles, so no crimp, no crossover pipe - which you don't need. If you have gurgling or popping just put exhaust tips that are 0.5 inches less than what you are running. That will provide sufficient back pressure without bogging down your exhaust system. I ran 3" right out because I didn't have popping issues due to the high flow nature. It sounds AWESOME and there are minimal clearance issues. It even passed MTO emissions test.
Now after months / years of reading the forum threads on this site I am somewhat confused. I see some of the numbers posted and and I know what I've done to my little Phoenix and they don't jive. You've read what I've done and my numbers are 366 HP at the rear wheels and 440 tq. Mind you I am running minimal boost, but I can still spin the wheels off in first 3 gears. I ran mid twelves on the engine mods alone before the S/C and exhaust changes. So when I read that some dude changed his cam and got into the 11's with over 400 HP I have to call BS.
11-20-2010, 04:15 PM
#679
First, that is the longest, marginally useless post I've ever read.
Second, let's not try and ruin Brian's thread.
Third (if we care to disregard the second point), you're going to need to tell is what modifications you have done to your car. Telling us just brand names doesn't establish too much at all. How big? Compression? What are the specs on your cams?
Why would you go spend all that money, and not change the heads? Let alone get some more adequate lifters?
Last but certainly not least, your car (or dyno used) has some serious issues. There are many LS1 cars that are making near 400rwhp with "cam only" (of course with supporting modifications). If you are trying to tell us that your car - a manual too - is not able to break the 400rwhp mark, with the laundry-list of brands you listed, plus a cam AND BLOWER, I would question the "REAL PROFESSIONALS" that you are using.
Welcome to LS1Tech!
Second, let's not try and ruin Brian's thread.
Third (if we care to disregard the second point), you're going to need to tell is what modifications you have done to your car. Telling us just brand names doesn't establish too much at all. How big? Compression? What are the specs on your cams?
Why would you go spend all that money, and not change the heads? Let alone get some more adequate lifters?
Last but certainly not least, your car (or dyno used) has some serious issues. There are many LS1 cars that are making near 400rwhp with "cam only" (of course with supporting modifications). If you are trying to tell us that your car - a manual too - is not able to break the 400rwhp mark, with the laundry-list of brands you listed, plus a cam AND BLOWER, I would question the "REAL PROFESSIONALS" that you are using.
Welcome to LS1Tech!
Greetings and felicitations to Everyone. I've finally registered to LS1TECH after years of researching the site for my own personal mods to my 2000 WS6. I think I've broken the 30 grand figure for engine mods alone so I can lament with the OP (98 WS6). The reason for the PHOEN1X handle is because the car has finally risen from the ashes of destruction and after years of upgrades I think I've finally restored the engine to where I want it after the original implosion. I have many, many experiences and I can provide helpful hints to any LS1 owners if they so desire.
In the beginnning (ta ta ta daaa) I installed a Hypertech programmer. IF YOU HAVE A STOCK ENGINE DO NOT INSTALL THIS PROGRAM. Certainly do not change the rev limiter. Stock LS1's "I" pattern connecting rods cannot handle high rpms. Okay, so the first day of beating on the car with the HT program I threw a rod bearing. ARRGGGHHHH!!
Hence the beginning of the bulletproof modifications (and I had the money and stupidity to keep spending the money to do what I wanted to do). John Saunders Racing did the rebuild. Only the heads, crank and block of the original engine remain. Competition Cams, Mahle piston kit, Clevite bearings, Centerforce clutch, Ferrea valves, Crane valve locks, Eagle connecting rods, original roller lifters, Cloyes timing set, and so on and so on ... Completed engine mods with Hedman LT headers. The engine is now bulletproof.
Installed engine in car (major charging and computer issues!!!) then added a Procharger D-1SC supercharger. If any distributor tries to tell you that you can get it done (including new balancer, injectors and fuel pump and dyno tune) for less than 10 grand they're full of crap. I have minimal boost but I also run intake air at only 46 degrees C. I finally took the car to REAL PROFESSIONALS ... RSP Motorsports in Kilworth, Ontario. Renato and Stephan did an awesome job on the dyno tune and computer set up.
Next you'll need to change the side bearings in your axle because the piece of crap Timkin bearings are just that. Go SKF. Last modification was to exhaust and I've read a plethora of threads on the issue. I decided to do my own thing. My local Meineke shop in London, Ontario did the custom exhaust using Magnaflow cats and mufflers. 3" stainless steel true duals in every respect with highflow cats and mufflers under the axles, so no crimp, no crossover pipe - which you don't need. If you have gurgling or popping just put exhaust tips that are 0.5 inches less than what you are running. That will provide sufficient back pressure without bogging down your exhaust system. I ran 3" right out because I didn't have popping issues due to the high flow nature. It sounds AWESOME and there are minimal clearance issues. It even passed MTO emissions test.
Now after months / years of reading the forum threads on this site I am somewhat confused. I see some of the numbers posted and and I know what I've done to my little Phoenix and they don't jive. You've read what I've done and my numbers are 366 HP at the rear wheels and 440 tq. Mind you I am running minimal boost, but I can still spin the wheels off in first 3 gears. I ran mid twelves on the engine mods alone before the S/C and exhaust changes. So when I read that some dude changed his cam and got into the 11's with over 400 HP I have to call BS.
In the beginnning (ta ta ta daaa) I installed a Hypertech programmer. IF YOU HAVE A STOCK ENGINE DO NOT INSTALL THIS PROGRAM. Certainly do not change the rev limiter. Stock LS1's "I" pattern connecting rods cannot handle high rpms. Okay, so the first day of beating on the car with the HT program I threw a rod bearing. ARRGGGHHHH!!
Hence the beginning of the bulletproof modifications (and I had the money and stupidity to keep spending the money to do what I wanted to do). John Saunders Racing did the rebuild. Only the heads, crank and block of the original engine remain. Competition Cams, Mahle piston kit, Clevite bearings, Centerforce clutch, Ferrea valves, Crane valve locks, Eagle connecting rods, original roller lifters, Cloyes timing set, and so on and so on ... Completed engine mods with Hedman LT headers. The engine is now bulletproof.
Installed engine in car (major charging and computer issues!!!) then added a Procharger D-1SC supercharger. If any distributor tries to tell you that you can get it done (including new balancer, injectors and fuel pump and dyno tune) for less than 10 grand they're full of crap. I have minimal boost but I also run intake air at only 46 degrees C. I finally took the car to REAL PROFESSIONALS ... RSP Motorsports in Kilworth, Ontario. Renato and Stephan did an awesome job on the dyno tune and computer set up.
Next you'll need to change the side bearings in your axle because the piece of crap Timkin bearings are just that. Go SKF. Last modification was to exhaust and I've read a plethora of threads on the issue. I decided to do my own thing. My local Meineke shop in London, Ontario did the custom exhaust using Magnaflow cats and mufflers. 3" stainless steel true duals in every respect with highflow cats and mufflers under the axles, so no crimp, no crossover pipe - which you don't need. If you have gurgling or popping just put exhaust tips that are 0.5 inches less than what you are running. That will provide sufficient back pressure without bogging down your exhaust system. I ran 3" right out because I didn't have popping issues due to the high flow nature. It sounds AWESOME and there are minimal clearance issues. It even passed MTO emissions test.
Now after months / years of reading the forum threads on this site I am somewhat confused. I see some of the numbers posted and and I know what I've done to my little Phoenix and they don't jive. You've read what I've done and my numbers are 366 HP at the rear wheels and 440 tq. Mind you I am running minimal boost, but I can still spin the wheels off in first 3 gears. I ran mid twelves on the engine mods alone before the S/C and exhaust changes. So when I read that some dude changed his cam and got into the 11's with over 400 HP I have to call BS.
11-20-2010, 04:39 PM
#680
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Well, not the welcome wagon I expected but I can deal with it. I believe somewhere on this thread someone stated that the true test is at the strip. Next Spring I will post numbers. The last Shelby Mustang with their "alleged" 500 HP and Z series Vette that I left at least 10 car lengths behind in the quarter can boast all they want about their HP rating.
And yes they are real professionals having worked in Europe for many years and all sorts of exotica including Porsche, Ferraris and Lambos. Hence they don't feel the need to over-inflate dyno specs to coddle their customers sagging egos. If you want REAL dyno numbers then you need to go to an honest dyno tuner that is not afraid to provide real numbers. For confirmation go to Magnaflow's site. They do before and after dyno tests on a variety of cars and the alleged stock 315 T/A HP rating is more like 240. Judging by your vitriolic response to my post I would say that you need over-inflated numbers to appease your ego. I don't. And if I had listed ALL the details of the modifications would you have complained that my post was even more wordy than your original complaint.
And although John at JSR took his sweet time on the rebuild he has been successfully racing NASCAR for years so I think he knows what he is doing.
And the reason why I jumped on this thread is because, as I wrote, I understand the ordeal that the OP went through and shared my own experiences rather than start a new thread on virtually the same subject. Besides, this was the only current similar thread to what I wanted to share.
If you don't like it ... just don't read it! The fact that you took the time to write a response to a post that is obviously anathema to you surprises me. Like ... why waste your time?
And yes they are real professionals having worked in Europe for many years and all sorts of exotica including Porsche, Ferraris and Lambos. Hence they don't feel the need to over-inflate dyno specs to coddle their customers sagging egos. If you want REAL dyno numbers then you need to go to an honest dyno tuner that is not afraid to provide real numbers. For confirmation go to Magnaflow's site. They do before and after dyno tests on a variety of cars and the alleged stock 315 T/A HP rating is more like 240. Judging by your vitriolic response to my post I would say that you need over-inflated numbers to appease your ego. I don't. And if I had listed ALL the details of the modifications would you have complained that my post was even more wordy than your original complaint.
And although John at JSR took his sweet time on the rebuild he has been successfully racing NASCAR for years so I think he knows what he is doing.
And the reason why I jumped on this thread is because, as I wrote, I understand the ordeal that the OP went through and shared my own experiences rather than start a new thread on virtually the same subject. Besides, this was the only current similar thread to what I wanted to share.
If you don't like it ... just don't read it! The fact that you took the time to write a response to a post that is obviously anathema to you surprises me. Like ... why waste your time?