DDM Tuning 55W HID Ballasts Buzzing?!
07-14-2010, 09:43 AM
#2
Are you just plugged into your factory harness ? If so, you need to run a relay kit with the 55 watt setup. I had the same problem with a 35 watt DDM kit, and I wired the setup with a relay kit, problem solved.
07-14-2010, 02:52 PM
#4
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The factory wiring is very thin and the gauge of wire that is used is not enough to sustain the load of HID's. I had intermittent problems with mine and it actually caused my wipers to come on and off whenever I had the lights on. Just go on ebay and find a relay harness. If need be, p-m me and I'll send you the info for the harness I used. Has worked fine for over 3 years.
07-14-2010, 03:56 PM
#6
You do not want to leave the kit wired through the factory wiring? HID kits have a tremendous amount of current when they are initially started. This displaces a heavy load on the factory wiring harness, you will eventually have some problems with the OEM harness. Using a relay kit is the correct way to install and solve your problem. Do what you want, but that's my .02
07-14-2010, 06:27 PM
#7
What kind of load are you saying is too much? The smaller ballast DDM kit I am using draws less than 6 amps at start up and 3.4 amps at normal operating temperature. I think it depends on what HID kit/ballast you use. Someone would have to post the GM specs for the Camaro headlight wiring system to really ascertain if there is an issue...
What you are suggesting seems to be the same as the HID Harness option DDM sells for $15:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...ast-35W-or-55W
According to DDM, If you do not experience a flickering issue at time of install, you should not need the relay kit. Granted, DDM does not focus on domestics much...
DDM tech support also says some buzz/hum is considered normal.
What you are suggesting seems to be the same as the HID Harness option DDM sells for $15:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...ast-35W-or-55W
According to DDM, If you do not experience a flickering issue at time of install, you should not need the relay kit. Granted, DDM does not focus on domestics much...
DDM tech support also says some buzz/hum is considered normal.
The factory wiring is very thin and the gauge of wire that is used is not enough to sustain the load of HID's. I had intermittent problems with mine and it actually caused my wipers to come on and off whenever I had the lights on. Just go on ebay and find a relay harness. If need be, p-m me and I'll send you the info for the harness I used. Has worked fine for over 3 years.
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07-14-2010, 08:19 PM
#8
You do realize that at startup 6 amps = 720 watts that initially hit your stock harness. IMO, the stock system will probably work, but why take a chance on damaging your factory harness for $15/20 ????? That's all I'm saying, you sound like a convincing answer won't make a difference. So, I will leave it at that.......
FYI: I have the 55watt DDM kit on my WS6 with a relay, just like the other three kits that are on other vehicles.
FYI: I have the 55watt DDM kit on my WS6 with a relay, just like the other three kits that are on other vehicles.
07-14-2010, 08:37 PM
#9
I hear you, but nobody has posted any OEM thresholds for the factory harness... I mean, this IS LS1TECH 
You do realize that at startup 6 amps = 720 watts that initially hit your stock harness. IMO, the stock system will probably work, but why take a chance on damaging your factory harness for $15/20 ????? That's all I'm saying, you sound like a convincing answer won't make a difference. So, I will leave it at that.......
FYI: I have the 55watt DDM kit on my WS6 with a relay, just like the other three kits that are on other vehicles.
FYI: I have the 55watt DDM kit on my WS6 with a relay, just like the other three kits that are on other vehicles.
07-14-2010, 09:58 PM
#11
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I'm just giving my two cents on this one but after having enough issues to cause my wiper motor to quit working because the lights would make them do weird things whenever they were turned on, but as stated before, do as you please.
The idea of the relay harness is mainly to help "soften" the shock on the initial power surge of the HID's turning on. Most kits draw less power than regular lighting systems while on, but there is further for the power to travel and more required initially. I have put a harness on every kit i've done so far, and nobody has had a single issue. Take it for what it's worth.
The idea of the relay harness is mainly to help "soften" the shock on the initial power surge of the HID's turning on. Most kits draw less power than regular lighting systems while on, but there is further for the power to travel and more required initially. I have put a harness on every kit i've done so far, and nobody has had a single issue. Take it for what it's worth.
07-14-2010, 10:04 PM
#12
Yeah, so what do you have, how many ballasts at how many watts each? That is an important detail. It sure seems like LS1TECH is turning into any other message board without the TECH. DETAILS DETAILS!
I'm just giving my two cents on this one but after having enough issues to cause my wiper motor to quit working because the lights would make them do weird things whenever they were turned on, but as stated before, do as you please.
The idea of the relay harness is mainly to help "soften" the shock on the initial power surge of the HID's turning on. Most kits draw less power than regular lighting systems while on, but there is further for the power to travel and more required initially. I have put a harness on every kit i've done so far, and nobody has had a single issue. Take it for what it's worth.
The idea of the relay harness is mainly to help "soften" the shock on the initial power surge of the HID's turning on. Most kits draw less power than regular lighting systems while on, but there is further for the power to travel and more required initially. I have put a harness on every kit i've done so far, and nobody has had a single issue. Take it for what it's worth.
07-14-2010, 10:32 PM
#13
i have their 55watt slim ballasts in my BMW. They buzz and buzz and buzz, this is not normal. If you go into the tech section of their website its explained, and if you go onto bimmerforums.com its a sticky, and has been asked about a million times.
Are your ballasts touching anything metal like shock tower radiator support etc?
QUOTE: Buzzing = arcing. Move the 23k volt side of the wires away from gound points (fenders, bumper support, etc). The connectors are not insulated enough and at startup the power will jump ship to the closest ground. You can see it happen in the dark with a buddy turning the lights on/off for you.
With that said, they are also 100% correct about the stock harness, most cars dont have thickly enough gauged wire. My BMW would only power one side, or it would power them intermittently and some times it would cause my car to completely cut out while driving!!!! I thought it was rain, i thought it was moisture, i thought it was one bad ballast, i thought i had touched the wires together, etc etc on and on. Nope, just simply they couldn't get enough power at start up. DDM makes a Plug and Play power relay harness for my car for only $35. Problem solved. GREAT products, GREAT company!!! So much lighting power! I cant wait to upgrade my WS6.
One tell tell sign is your gauge cluster. When you turn on the car, and then your lights, do your gauges jump? Or surge if you will? This means the car is "starving" other components in order to power your headlights because of the draw. Just get a relay, and power it right to your battery if you want to!
here is a thread on the bimmerforums about the buzzing where ddm themselves chime in:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ht=ddm+buzzing
Are your ballasts touching anything metal like shock tower radiator support etc?
QUOTE: Buzzing = arcing. Move the 23k volt side of the wires away from gound points (fenders, bumper support, etc). The connectors are not insulated enough and at startup the power will jump ship to the closest ground. You can see it happen in the dark with a buddy turning the lights on/off for you.
With that said, they are also 100% correct about the stock harness, most cars dont have thickly enough gauged wire. My BMW would only power one side, or it would power them intermittently and some times it would cause my car to completely cut out while driving!!!! I thought it was rain, i thought it was moisture, i thought it was one bad ballast, i thought i had touched the wires together, etc etc on and on. Nope, just simply they couldn't get enough power at start up. DDM makes a Plug and Play power relay harness for my car for only $35. Problem solved. GREAT products, GREAT company!!! So much lighting power! I cant wait to upgrade my WS6.
One tell tell sign is your gauge cluster. When you turn on the car, and then your lights, do your gauges jump? Or surge if you will? This means the car is "starving" other components in order to power your headlights because of the draw. Just get a relay, and power it right to your battery if you want to!
here is a thread on the bimmerforums about the buzzing where ddm themselves chime in:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ht=ddm+buzzing
Last edited by evilZO6; 07-14-2010 at 10:38 PM.
07-14-2010, 11:10 PM
#14
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I have a 35 watt kit for my headlights and 35 watt kit for my fogs. I'm not really sure what kind of answer your looking for here. Off the top of my head, I'm not sure how much amperage the factory lights put out and how many watts the hid kit puts out. It kinda seems to me like your strictly just asking questions and not actually doing any kind of research on the matter. I'm sorry I don't have the answer for you and is why I specifically noted that it didn't work without the harness, and has worked flawlessly with it. If you want more info on this topic I can get you it, I'm just very busy and don't have time/desire to do it for my own well being. hidplanet.com will have any of this info available or there will be someone who can help you find the answer. No offense bro, but in the time it has taken you to respond to all of these posts and ask every time where the TECH is on this site, you could have done some searching and found the answer. If you need more help let me know and I will search for you.
07-15-2010, 01:03 AM
#15
Interesting, and makes sense -- THANKS! I will have to find a way to isolate them, as they are currently zip-tied tightly to the metal headlight support brackets... Ironically DDM stopped including 3M double sided tape because they allege folks were ONLY using that, instead of also zip-ties or other anchoring. Their warranty doesn't apply if the ballasts fall out onto the road... ;-)
i have their 55watt slim ballasts in my BMW. They buzz and buzz and buzz, this is not normal. If you go into the tech section of their website its explained, and if you go onto bimmerforums.com its a sticky, and has been asked about a million times.
Are your ballasts touching anything metal like shock tower radiator support etc?
QUOTE: Buzzing = arcing. Move the 23k volt side of the wires away from gound points (fenders, bumper support, etc). The connectors are not insulated enough and at startup the power will jump ship to the closest ground. You can see it happen in the dark with a buddy turning the lights on/off for you.
With that said, they are also 100% correct about the stock harness, most cars dont have thickly enough gauged wire. My BMW would only power one side, or it would power them intermittently and some times it would cause my car to completely cut out while driving!!!! I thought it was rain, i thought it was moisture, i thought it was one bad ballast, i thought i had touched the wires together, etc etc on and on. Nope, just simply they couldn't get enough power at start up. DDM makes a Plug and Play power relay harness for my car for only $35. Problem solved. GREAT products, GREAT company!!! So much lighting power! I cant wait to upgrade my WS6.
One tell tell sign is your gauge cluster. When you turn on the car, and then your lights, do your gauges jump? Or surge if you will? This means the car is "starving" other components in order to power your headlights because of the draw. Just get a relay, and power it right to your battery if you want to!
here is a thread on the bimmerforums about the buzzing where ddm themselves chime in:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ht=ddm+buzzing
Are your ballasts touching anything metal like shock tower radiator support etc?
QUOTE: Buzzing = arcing. Move the 23k volt side of the wires away from gound points (fenders, bumper support, etc). The connectors are not insulated enough and at startup the power will jump ship to the closest ground. You can see it happen in the dark with a buddy turning the lights on/off for you.
With that said, they are also 100% correct about the stock harness, most cars dont have thickly enough gauged wire. My BMW would only power one side, or it would power them intermittently and some times it would cause my car to completely cut out while driving!!!! I thought it was rain, i thought it was moisture, i thought it was one bad ballast, i thought i had touched the wires together, etc etc on and on. Nope, just simply they couldn't get enough power at start up. DDM makes a Plug and Play power relay harness for my car for only $35. Problem solved. GREAT products, GREAT company!!! So much lighting power! I cant wait to upgrade my WS6.
One tell tell sign is your gauge cluster. When you turn on the car, and then your lights, do your gauges jump? Or surge if you will? This means the car is "starving" other components in order to power your headlights because of the draw. Just get a relay, and power it right to your battery if you want to!
here is a thread on the bimmerforums about the buzzing where ddm themselves chime in:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ht=ddm+buzzing
07-16-2010, 02:05 AM
#16
Nice hypothesis, but didn't fly. Just plugging in the ballast starts the buzzing -- mounted or loose unmounted away from metal...
Anyone else have their DDM ballasts buzzing? Solution?
Anyone else have their DDM ballasts buzzing? Solution?
i have their 55watt slim ballasts in my BMW. They buzz and buzz and buzz, this is not normal. If you go into the tech section of their website its explained, and if you go onto bimmerforums.com its a sticky, and has been asked about a million times.
Are your ballasts touching anything metal like shock tower radiator support etc?
QUOTE: Buzzing = arcing. Move the 23k volt side of the wires away from gound points (fenders, bumper support, etc). The connectors are not insulated enough and at startup the power will jump ship to the closest ground. You can see it happen in the dark with a buddy turning the lights on/off for you.
With that said, they are also 100% correct about the stock harness, most cars dont have thickly enough gauged wire. My BMW would only power one side, or it would power them intermittently and some times it would cause my car to completely cut out while driving!!!! I thought it was rain, i thought it was moisture, i thought it was one bad ballast, i thought i had touched the wires together, etc etc on and on. Nope, just simply they couldn't get enough power at start up. DDM makes a Plug and Play power relay harness for my car for only $35. Problem solved. GREAT products, GREAT company!!! So much lighting power! I cant wait to upgrade my WS6.
One tell tell sign is your gauge cluster. When you turn on the car, and then your lights, do your gauges jump? Or surge if you will? This means the car is "starving" other components in order to power your headlights because of the draw. Just get a relay, and power it right to your battery if you want to!
here is a thread on the bimmerforums about the buzzing where ddm themselves chime in:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ht=ddm+buzzing
Are your ballasts touching anything metal like shock tower radiator support etc?
QUOTE: Buzzing = arcing. Move the 23k volt side of the wires away from gound points (fenders, bumper support, etc). The connectors are not insulated enough and at startup the power will jump ship to the closest ground. You can see it happen in the dark with a buddy turning the lights on/off for you.
With that said, they are also 100% correct about the stock harness, most cars dont have thickly enough gauged wire. My BMW would only power one side, or it would power them intermittently and some times it would cause my car to completely cut out while driving!!!! I thought it was rain, i thought it was moisture, i thought it was one bad ballast, i thought i had touched the wires together, etc etc on and on. Nope, just simply they couldn't get enough power at start up. DDM makes a Plug and Play power relay harness for my car for only $35. Problem solved. GREAT products, GREAT company!!! So much lighting power! I cant wait to upgrade my WS6.
One tell tell sign is your gauge cluster. When you turn on the car, and then your lights, do your gauges jump? Or surge if you will? This means the car is "starving" other components in order to power your headlights because of the draw. Just get a relay, and power it right to your battery if you want to!
here is a thread on the bimmerforums about the buzzing where ddm themselves chime in:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ht=ddm+buzzing
07-16-2010, 12:57 PM
#19
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They all buzz from personal experience. Some do it more than others. I mounted my ballasts on the inside of the front bumper support piece(black plastic thing between the bumper and core support) and between that and the harnesses, no problems here.