Removing "Baked on" Stripes???
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From: In your sisters panties
Removing "Baked on" Stripes??? I don't know how else to describe how they're now. I put the 35th anvi stripes on my SS about +/- 5 yrs ago, and they look like 
now. 4 yrs of being outside has shrunk them , which inturn, has cracked the, and even faded/disolved them (in one perticular place). I want to remove them, buff/compound the **** out of the car, and put new ones on. The issues is they're so rotted that they are "hard". For all intents and purposes, the decals are baked on.
How can I remove them w/o scratching the **** out of my car? I was thinking of using Goo Gone and a plastic tab to scrape it, but like i said, i don't want to **** up my paint any worse then it already is...
Is there any special trick to removing "baked" on stripes, or is this best left to professionals at a body shop?
now. 4 yrs of being outside has shrunk them , which inturn, has cracked the, and even faded/disolved them (in one perticular place). I want to remove them, buff/compound the **** out of the car, and put new ones on. The issues is they're so rotted that they are "hard". For all intents and purposes, the decals are baked on.How can I remove them w/o scratching the **** out of my car? I was thinking of using Goo Gone and a plastic tab to scrape it, but like i said, i don't want to **** up my paint any worse then it already is...
Is there any special trick to removing "baked" on stripes, or is this best left to professionals at a body shop?
Last edited by Nightrydass; Sep 21, 2010 at 05:24 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: In your sisters panties
no "consumer grade" options? I was planning on removing the stripes myself, buying one of those "buffer/compound" kits from a sponsor, compounding my car, then taking it to a shop to have new decals put on. If the only way i can get these stripes off "safely" is by taking it to a body shop, i might as well have them do everything.
I would normally just go with the "heat" option, but that is how they turned to **** in the first place. lol. I'm not kidding, one set of "flags" actually started to disolve. If i wait a lil longer, they will disappear. lol
My car needs to be compounded and buffed like you wouldn't believe, these fucked up stripes just make my bad paint look worse.
I would normally just go with the "heat" option, but that is how they turned to **** in the first place. lol. I'm not kidding, one set of "flags" actually started to disolve. If i wait a lil longer, they will disappear. lol
My car needs to be compounded and buffed like you wouldn't believe, these fucked up stripes just make my bad paint look worse.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydep...temno=MMM+7498
Thats exactly what I used, but no body shop involved just did it all on my driveway lol. now I just have these faded looking stripe outlines on my car. Anybody have any tips on how to remove them?
Thats exactly what I used, but no body shop involved just did it all on my driveway lol. now I just have these faded looking stripe outlines on my car. Anybody have any tips on how to remove them?
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TECH Enthusiast
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From: In your sisters panties
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydep...temno=MMM+7498
Thats exactly what I used, but no body shop involved just did it all on my driveway lol. now I just have these faded looking stripe outlines on my car. Anybody have any tips on how to remove them?
Thats exactly what I used, but no body shop involved just did it all on my driveway lol. now I just have these faded looking stripe outlines on my car. Anybody have any tips on how to remove them?
These guys used to be a sponsor. They were called Tropi-care, then became Showroom FX. I couldn't find them on the sponsor list anymore...
http://www.showroomfx.com/Porter_Cab...p/sfxpc-10.htm
Btw; does anyone have any experience with the above items? I'm a car detailing "noob", i don't want to buy anything that will burn holes into my paint and make things worse. The closest i have used is a R/O waxer, not a R/O polisher w/ cutting pads. I have heard horror stories about people who uses polishers and destroy their paint b/c they didn't kno what they were doing. I don't want to try to save a couple bucks compounding/polishing my own car only to have to spend a couple thousand b/c i FUBAR my paint. The car is black, remember...
How was ur experience with this? What is ur experience with this type of work in general? I'm a car detailing "noob", I can wash/wax a car, but i have never tried anything "invasive". Is this "noob" proof? I dont want to inadvertently burn 1" wide racing stripes into my paint.
I use the eraser wheel about every work day. As a general rule, it can't be used on bumpers and fiberglass because it can't take the heat like metal can and you will burn through the paint easier. I do it when I have to, but I know what I'm doing, and go real slow with the rpms (the one I use is air powered), like as slow as it will go, then if there is any left over here and there and there always is, I go over it with a terry cloth towel and some type of adhesive remover. If you have an SS or WS6 hood, it is fiberglass, be careful. It can be done to the dry cracking stripes with just adhesive remover but it takes patience and a decent length of fingernail. Oh and for some reason, on most white cars, the eraser leaves a yellow haze behind so I don't recommend it on white cars, though it could be the eraser brand we use (Astro)
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/adhremove.aspx
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/adhremove.aspx
I use the eraser wheel about every work day. As a general rule, it can't be used on bumpers and fiberglass because it can't take the heat like metal can and you will burn through the paint easier. I do it when I have to, but I know what I'm doing, and go real slow with the rpms (the one I use is air powered), like as slow as it will go, then if there is any left over here and there and there always is, I go over it with a terry cloth towel and some type of adhesive remover. If you have an SS or WS6 hood, it is fiberglass, be careful. It can be done to the dry cracking stripes with just adhesive remover but it takes patience and a decent length of fingernail. Oh and for some reason, on most white cars, the eraser leaves a yellow haze behind so I don't recommend it on white cars, though it could be the eraser brand we use (Astro)
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/adhremove.aspx
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/adhremove.aspx
I just used the stripe eraser wheel yesterday to remove my stripes that had been cooked on there for 8 years and looked terrible. The wheel worked perfectly, and it was very easy to use (I'm also a n00b when it comes to anything body/paint/appearance related). My only problem is that the paint under the stripes looks better than the rest of the car (but the difference is very very minor).
