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SERIOUS headlight issues!!! Trans Am people inside NOW!!

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Old 10-25-2010, 01:13 AM
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Exclamation SERIOUS headlight issues!!! Trans Am people inside NOW!!

Two years ago, the driver side headlight on my 2000 Trans Am started making the infamous jackhammer noise. I knew it was a stripped headlight motor gear and ordered 2 of the aluminum gears from Franker (kept the other as a spare). Went ahead and replaced the plastic gear and didn't have any problems since...until recently...

Don't know if it's related in any way, but I also installed the BLS HID kit, back in August. Everything seems to have gone okay with the install, tested it numerous times and everything worked great.

Issue #1: Anyways, so I flip on the headlights and the PASSENGER side headlight pops UP, but NO LIGHT, and the DRIVER side headlight stays DOWN, but LIGHTS UP. So I don't know what the HELL is going on with this? I assume the passenger side ballast isn't "igniting" the bulb. Sometimes it comes on, and sometimes it doesn't (same for the driver side). Someone explain to me how my mom's X5 HIDs light up EVERY single time, but sometimes my bulbs refuse to ignite?? We can put a goddamn robot on friggin' Mars but can't get HID technology figured out??

Issue #2 Out of my frustration, I kept popping the headlights up and down a few times in order to ignite the bulb (which sometimes has worked in the past). Then the jackhammer noise started again!! I figured it was time for the passenger side gear to die anyways (luckily I ordered a spare). Turns out the DRIVER side headlight motor is making the noise!!!

Tear into the driver side headlight motor and this is what I find. There is visible damage to the teeth on the aluminum gear in TWO locations.
In this pic the damage seems minimal, but perhaps it may be enough to cause failure?


The second location seems VERY ODD, because it's towards the side of the gear. The damage should be centered on the teeth, but it isn't.


So I replaced the gear with the spare aluminum gear and everything seemed to work okay last night. Both headlights popped up and both HID bulbs lit up perfectly.

I was in the garage earlier tonight and decided to pop-up the lights and marvel at my mechanic skills, but now the driver side headlight lights up but stays down (no jackhammer noise) and the passenger side works like it should.

Can someone please tell me what the hell is going on??
Old 10-25-2010, 02:52 AM
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This is exactly what happened to me. Same kind of damage to the teeth. Ended up installing a new motor, got so feed up with this. Issue in my case was related to the epoxy glue. Only difference I had no problem with the lights coming on.
Old 10-25-2010, 03:33 AM
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^ Which makes me very sad to hear b/c the HID kit he has is a BLS kit, the one i held so high and planned on purchasing.
Old 10-25-2010, 05:07 PM
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Make sure there is no binding in the actual arm that raises and lowers the headlights. Sometimes these can get stuck during a gear replacement for whatever reason. At least this is what I have noticed. Did the epoxy fail on the motor cover? This is mentioned on Franker's site as well since the cases can split open easier if the epoxy is not totally grabbing the plastic.

Can you raise and lower the lights manually without issue?

Regarding the HID lamp firing, try swapping the ballast from one side of the car to the other and see if the issue travels with the ballast. If it continues, DDM has a lifetime warranty and you can get it replaced.

Originally Posted by Snake_Skinner
^ Which makes me very sad to hear b/c the HID kit he has is a BLS kit, the one i held so high and planned on purchasing.
The BLS kit would not cause the headlight gear issue as this is a known problem with stock vehicles. Regarding the ballast, DDM kits are used exclusively for the 98-02 Birds and have a well known reputation on this site as well as others. Coupled with the lifetime warranty, this is why we use them.

The failure/issue rate so far has been less than 3% based on the kits I've sold.
Old 10-25-2010, 06:07 PM
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My BLS kit is working fine. I had the jackhammer noise and just replaced the whole motor. It was cheap. The only problem I have with the BLS kit is that its hard to adjust the headlights where they close totally. Im having trouble with a gap left when closed.
Old 10-25-2010, 06:10 PM
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Mac - check the third long bolt and make sure you don't have it threaded too far. The bolt may be touching the rad support. This is noted in the install guide
Old 10-25-2010, 06:16 PM
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The motor if flexing, making the worm gear move slightly to the side. Make sure the tabs on the motor housing are tight with NO PLAY.
Old 10-25-2010, 06:20 PM
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I ll check on my T/A headlight works on-off.. possible motor/gear bad??
Old 10-25-2010, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vikingramair
This is exactly what happened to me. Same kind of damage to the teeth. Ended up installing a new motor, got so feed up with this. Issue in my case was related to the epoxy glue. Only difference I had no problem with the lights coming on.
So you installed a new METAL gear and it got shredded too? How much was the new motor? I really don't want to do that if I don't have too.
Old 10-25-2010, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Snake_Skinner
^ Which makes me very sad to hear b/c the HID kit he has is a BLS kit, the one i held so high and planned on purchasing.
Well in defense of the BLS Kit, mechanically speaking, it's relatively well put together. There are some tolerance issues that a lot of people tend to have (including me). However, I'm fairly certain that the issue with the bulbs "igniting" has to do with a shitty ballast. The kit comes with the newer SLIM ballasts, and maybe they're just not as good as the old THICK ones. I also have the Raptor HID Fog light kit from DDM Tuning. They packed the older design THICK ballasts with the kit and the bulbs ignite every single time. I only seem to have issues with the headlights (SLIM ballasts).

I would love to hear from other people who have the BLS Kit with the SLIM ballasts about the frequency of their bulbs igniting initially every time.
Old 10-25-2010, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BLSolutions
Make sure there is no binding in the actual arm that raises and lowers the headlights. Sometimes these can get stuck during a gear replacement for whatever reason. At least this is what I have noticed.
I checked the arm before I swapped in the second aluminum gear. Sometimes it would get caught by the bolt, and sometimes it wouldn't. Regardless, I really don't think this is the issue. Just to be safe though, I put a washer on the other side of the bolt to decrease the tolerance. After I swapped in the NEW gear, I checked the arm and it was definitely not even close to touching the bolt anymore. As I said before, Saturday night everything was working great after the new gear install, then Sunday night I'm having the issue listed above.



Originally Posted by BLSolutions
Did the epoxy fail on the motor cover? This is mentioned on Franker's site as well since the cases can split open easier if the epoxy is not totally grabbing the plastic.
Nope, the epoxy held up really well over the 2 years since the initial gear swap. I checked the epoxy just a few minutes ago and it seems very solid to me. I also went ahead and ordered this T-Brace last night.



Originally Posted by BLSolutions
Can you raise and lower the lights manually without issue?
Yup, never an issue.


Originally Posted by BLSolutions
Regarding the HID lamp firing, try swapping the ballast from one side of the car to the other and see if the issue travels with the ballast. If it continues, DDM has a lifetime warranty and you can get it replaced.

The BLS kit would not cause the headlight gear issue as this is a known problem with stock vehicles. Regarding the ballast, DDM kits are used exclusively for the 98-02 Birds and have a well known reputation on this site as well as others. Coupled with the lifetime warranty, this is why we use them.

The failure/issue rate so far has been less than 3% based on the kits I've sold.
How do the SLIM ballasts (that come w/ the BLS Kit) compare to the more traditional FAT ballasts? I honestly don't care about SLIM or FAT, the Ballast is tucked away regardless so it's not an aesthetic issue. I just need a RELIABLE ballast that fires up every single time.
Old 10-25-2010, 08:21 PM
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Maybe something chipped off internally since you have metal to metal mesh with the aluminum gear and worm gear in the motor. Def. check the motor tabs to make sure its secure as already mentioned. This can throw things out of alignment.

Regarding the ballasts, the slim ballasts are digital, lighter and more reliable overall. Sounds like the one you have is being a bit picky but I would swap it to the other side to confirm.

Being the newest versions of these cars are 8 years old, its not uncommon that the overal electrical system may not be as "strong" as new. Regardless, I have seen more failures from the magnetic ballasts than the digital units in my experience. I use these ballasts in my own vehicles and zero issues. I'm not saying DDM can do no wrong but they have the lifetime warranty regardless.
Old 10-25-2010, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny2tek
The motor if flexing, making the worm gear move slightly to the side. Make sure the tabs on the motor housing are tight with NO PLAY.
I read page 4 of your sticky, I will check the tabs. Thanks!
Old 10-25-2010, 08:48 PM
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Okay, I checked the tabs, they seem to be pretty secure. I went ahead and hammered on them a little to get them extra tight. Don't think this was the issue...


Old 10-25-2010, 08:51 PM
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I went ahead and popped open the cover...another aluminum gear damaged!!


Old 10-25-2010, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BLSolutions
Regarding the ballasts, the slim ballasts are digital, lighter and more reliable overall. Sounds like the one you have is being a bit picky but I would swap it to the other side to confirm.
I have issues with both of them not igniting from time to time. So swapping them around isn't going to be a tremendous help, since I don't even have one reliable ballast that fires up EVERY time.

Originally Posted by BLSolutions
Being the newest versions of these cars are 8 years old, its not uncommon that the overal electrical system may not be as "strong" as new. Regardless, I have seen more failures from the magnetic ballasts than the digital units in my experience. I use these ballasts in my own vehicles and zero issues. I'm not saying DDM can do no wrong but they have the lifetime warranty regardless.
I checked the power connection for any signs of corrosion, everything looks okay.
Old 10-25-2010, 09:23 PM
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When referring to the power issue, I was more leading to the battery/charging system and not so much the physical wiring. Regardless of that problem, the motor/gear issue is much more prevalent and I would contact Franker about the chewed up gears.

For the ballasts, if you want, try the raptor ballasts in place of the digital units and see what happens.
Old 10-26-2010, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by BLSolutions
For the ballasts, if you want, try the raptor ballasts in place of the digital units and see what happens.
Is that safe? Does the wattage matter? The Raptor HID Kit that I have is 35W, don't remember the specs on the BLS Kit.
Old 10-26-2010, 03:06 AM
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This is a video I made earlier tonight BEFORE the gear got stripped again.

Both HID bulbs ignite this time, but the DRIVER side stays down and doesn't make the jackhammer noise...yet...

[youtube]78jAXvOfeNI[/youtube]

Last edited by TruBloodTransAm; 10-26-2010 at 03:12 AM.
Old 10-26-2010, 03:17 AM
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Shorty after the first video, I banged on the driver side headlight a bit

[youtube]LZUMi3A3jeU[/youtube]


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