Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

My "Official" Attempt At A Build Thread

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Old May 7, 2011 | 07:32 PM
  #61  
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MWC is taking 4 months for the watts??

i got my ta/trans mount setup from them and am happy with the quality, but thats a chitty wait
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Old May 8, 2011 | 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
That's the green writing, "soft" "shock", right? Those look the best of the 4.
Yes that one and the one next to it, but see the bottom...

Originally Posted by Irish350
MWC is taking 4 months for the watts??

i got my ta/trans mount setup from them and am happy with the quality, but thats a chitty wait
Yeah the wait is killing my progress, but tomorrow I'm going to try to get my 4 link bars started


Now today I measured from the center of my axle to the wheel arch and set it at 13 1/4" for roughly a 26 1/2" ride height put my old wheel and tire on there and raised it up a little to about 27" total (13 1/2" center of the axle to wheel arch). Then I measured my shock length and from the body of the car to the center hole of the shock mount I have 13 1/2". I collapsed the shock and measured from the upper bushing to the center of the bolt and I had 13 1/2" I don't know how the hell I can get factory style shocks to work without modifying the factory shock mounts. And when I have my LCAs on the lowest setting on the axle mounts they are level. I guess there aren't alot of options for a low ride height on these cars. The only thing that looks good is the gas tank clearance, I can fit 1.5 fingers in between the diff and the tank And I might have to beat in my floor pan to clear the drive shaft, the 8.8 pinion is offset to the passengers side a little bit more than the factory rear axle.

So I have to make some measurements tomorrow and see what has to happen. I either have to add some length to the shock tab and get the factory style shocks to work or buy new shocks (I already bought Edelbrock IAS rear shocks ) What did you guys have to do to run a low ride height? What shocks, what bumpstops, what did you have to cut, and so on???

Where does it all end???
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Old May 8, 2011 | 12:59 PM
  #63  
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Something doesn't sound right with your measurements. Remember that the bottom of the tire will be flattened some, so it's not exactly 25.7" in diameter. Closer to 25". The rubber shock bushings will also compress some.

The rear shocks should give the axle 8" of travel. Stock height is right in the middle, so it had 4" of compression and 4" of extension. The stock bumpstops reduce the compression travel a bit.

Here's my car from a while back. The front fenders are at 26" and the rear 26 1/4".


This is about as low as I would recommend. I had about 1.5" of compression travel on the front and rear and it rode well. This was with 550/150 springs and koni shocks along with the 55mm. bumpstops on the rear shocks.

Shortening the front upper shock mounts gives you more travel up front and hence, lets you lower it a tad more if you want to. Here is the max drop on my car with the front mounts cut down. Notice my back end is still limited by the torque arm.


Your never going to get the back lower than the front without major surgery. The torque arm is one limiting factor, but you don't have one, so the gas tank is really the next limit you have.

I would recommend setting the max rear compression travel at the axle touching the tank. So definetely extend your shock mounts on the axle (2"-3" would be plenty). You don't need your rear tires extending as low as in this wheel on the left.


Hope that helps.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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^^Thanks for the pics man. I know my measurements seem off and thats what I was trying to figure out. I like the stance you have in the first pic, thats kind of where I'm shooting but I need my tires and everything else to really get an idea of how its going to sit. I modified my rear upper spring cups like you did to get the air bags up a little bit higher, the upper mount mod is done, and I have 600# springs for the front.

Next weekend I'm going to hack up my shock mounts and add 2-2.5" to them so I will have about 3-3.5" of up travel and then add the 2" progressive bumpstop. I think I'll have enough travel with a setup like that and not have to buy new shocks.

MWC just sent me a PM and the watts is shipping today with some weld on axle stands Now some work can be done, but I got side tracked this weekend and pushed my car back another week A buddy of mine is selling his '01 400ex for way too good of a deal so I had to ****** it up. But that just puts me another week behind, so whats the big deal haha

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Old May 9, 2011 | 01:15 PM
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Ideally, you'd want your bumpstops as close to the axle ends as possible and have them on a threaded rod so you could easily adjust them up or down.

Food for thought.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 12:35 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Ideally, you'd want your bumpstops as close to the axle ends as possible and have them on a threaded rod so you could easily adjust them up or down.

Food for thought.
In a prefect world LOL I just don't know where I could put them close to the axle ends. My airbags take up where the coil spring was, the wheels take up where the bumpstop was, I have anti-groan brackets for my calipers now, and I'm not sure where the watts mounting points need to be right now. I think my best option is the progressive bumpstops mounted on the shock, and then I can add packers if I need to.

Tomorrow my lower A arms will be here and I got a tracking # for the watts so hopefully that will show up this week too. And Saturday my 400ex gets dropped off and I can install the new seat cover and go tear it up for a while Get rid of some of this built up aggression from working overtime for 6 months straight. Then Saturday night I'll mock up the watts and see how everything looks
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Old May 12, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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Well I got my watts link and lower a arms today from Fedex Only problem is that Byunspeed didn't send my T shirt I ordered and I didn't get any MWC stickers...why the hell don't companies send stickers anymore. In the shop we have the "tower of power" and all the stickers go on there and I haven't been getting **** for stickers

But so far so good. I'm not sure what I think about the watts right now. I would have thought the bars would have been a little beefier and the heims would have been larger. I'll post some pics tonight, I gotta get going to work right now
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Old May 12, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Turnin20s
I would have thought the bars would have been a little beefier and the heims would have been larger.
I guess the bars and heims only need to be about as big as the typical panhard rod. Are they smaller than that?
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Old May 13, 2011 | 12:41 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
I guess the bars and heims only need to be about as big as the typical panhard rod. Are they smaller than that?
Yup, quite a bit smaller
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Old May 13, 2011 | 01:44 AM
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Old May 13, 2011 | 08:41 AM
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Like the tubular watts link, where did you get it?
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Old May 13, 2011 | 12:05 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by RedVertTA
Like the tubular watts link, where did you get it?
Midwest Chassis
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Old May 13, 2011 | 12:59 PM
  #73  
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Those threaded aluminum hex bars are plenty strong even though their cheaper than DOM tubing with welded bungs. Is tubing what you were expecting?

You can polish those hex pieces. Make it look sharp.

What size and model rodend did they use?
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Old May 13, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Those threaded aluminum hex bars are plenty strong even though their cheaper than DOM tubing with welded bungs. Is tubing what you were expecting?

You can polish those hex pieces. Make it look sharp.

What size and model rodend did they use?
I was thinking about polishing them out, but I'll wait and see how everything fits first. I knew that these would be aluminum hex, but expected bigger I guess

I have no idea on the brand, and I think they are 7/16" I don't have my caliper here, but I'll check it out when I go out to my parents this weekend.

I'm not dissapointed with the watts, but it didn't wow me like I expected it to I guess. Looks way better than the fays2 IMO, and should give me alot more room for tailpipes
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Old May 13, 2011 | 02:27 PM
  #75  
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Tell mwc you want to swap those puny rodends out for some 3/4 beasts and massive hex bars! Lol
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Old May 14, 2011 | 12:27 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Tell mwc you want to swap those puny rodends out for some 3/4 beasts and massive hex bars! Lol
Yeah then I'd have to wait another 4 months for them to mod the bars and install the heims

I guess its not a huge load part, but like I said I just expected to be amazed. Tomorrow night I'm going to mock it up and see how everything looks and go from there. Who knows, maybe I'll have to run a PHB with my rear end setup. maybe the watts won't even work
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Old May 14, 2011 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Turnin20s
Yeah then I'd have to wait another 4 months for them to mod the bars and install the heims.
Naw, hex tube is cheap.
lefthanderchassis dot com/v2a/viewproduct_group.asp?idgroup=2512075
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Old May 17, 2011 | 02:04 AM
  #78  
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Test fitted the watts on saturday and I have to pull my rear axle to get it to bolt in. I have to push the left side to the front to get the bolt holes on the right side to even line up. And the main hoop is about 3" lower than the bottom of the axle with my ride height. I'm going tack up the axle brackets and make the passengers side 4 link bar and tack those brackets on and see how everything works.

I have to hold off on more parts for a little bit, had some things come up and need to get them taken care of. But I'm getting really close to being able to drop it off the lift and seeing how it looks on the ground. But I just got a decent raise at work and that should help pay for the rest of the parts I need in the next few weeks
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Old May 24, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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This weekend I worked on the front suspension. I decided that I was going to change my setup a little bit and use the stock upper a arms, and WS6 front sway bar for now so I can get my car back on the road. The drivers side is all back together, but I had a problem lining up the holes for the shock mount and got pissed off and walked away from it.

First week of june I'm going to order 2 tires and the power steering lines. Then the other 2 tires and exhaust shortly after that and I should be able to drive my car

Sorry for the slow progress, I'll try to do better haha
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 12:53 AM
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Well so much for ^^^ that plan, on monday my wifes car broke down 150 miles from home and I had to drive with the truck and trailer to go and get her. Turns out that my sisters BF is mechanically retarded and couldn't figure out that the rear tire had a broken belt so I had to spend $150 on gas and then another $150 on new rear tires So there went my money for parts

So this week I had to make some payments and next week I'm going to get my rear brakes, 2 tires, and PS lines. This weekend I'm going to add 2" to the shock mounts on the axle side, finish mocking up the 4 link bars, and weld on all of the brackets to get this thing going. I'm also going to get started the watts link install and decide if its going to be a $600 wall ordiment or an actual usable part. I also found out that I was setting my ride height up too low and I have that straightened out now. I may have ordered the wrong wheel spacers, but I won't know for sure until I get tires. I also want to get the radiator back in and run the wiring. I've had a pretty good break from this project and I need to get it rolling again.

So I'll see what happens, but I really want to accomplish something this weekend
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