Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

My apologies.

An iron removing step will only further help you imo. I've seen brand new vehicles that "bleed" like crazy after an Iron-X application. It's amazing that the true condition of some of these newer vehicles is tollerated by the public. It's understandable though as 99% of the population doesn't look at paint the same way many of us in this thread do.

I only operate a part time detailing venture, so this isn't my main source of income like a few guys in here. However, I'm confident that both Jeff and Jason will both agree. This thread was ironically one of my big motivating factors to get myself trained, and my business started. You have to start somewhere, and this thread has helped me, as well as many others, tremendously!

AWDTBSS

Lol here are the great threads
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/car-...ar-duster.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...l#post13118585

2002ss335

I used iron-x last year on my SS and was amazed at how well it worked. The back of my car had little black spots that I could never get off. The iron-x reacted with ones that I didn't even see.

I think that what the iron-x didn't remove it loosened up because it didn't take much for the clay to get everything smooth.

I loaned it to my brother and never got it back (surprise) so I have another bottle coming this week. I can't tell you it is a must have, but for me it is. I want the best possible results when I spend that much time and effort doing a full detail.

Todd

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I would venture to guess that most people who don't do paint correction professionally probably don't use Iron X as a part of the decon process. IMO its one of those things that makes it a better quality job. If you don't have a white car most people would probably never even think about it. I assure you its a worth while step you should include in your arsenal. The white Mustang I just finished was really bad, I actually had to iron x it twice. There was iron sucked up under the trunk lid. After using Iron X the car was "whiter", it didn't have that yellow tint to it.

No amount of polishing/compounding is going to all that stuff out. Its embedded in the clear coat. And what does come out is going to wreck the clear coat when you are polishing. You basically have little pieces of metal rolling around under your buffing pad at 3000-4000 OPM. No good can come of that.

I am basically echoing what has been said by Rare and others. I am going to do a thread on that Mustang later today and you can see how important a proper decon is.

I am very happy to see this thread is still going. A big thanks to Jeff for getting it started and introducing me to something that I have become very passionate about.

RebelExtrm02

iTrader: (3)

Can't wait to see it. I love detailing threads on white cars. I just love white. I ordered some iron-x from autogeek. It looks like i'll have to find something else to do for the next few days.

Jet49

Couple questions:

1. Just got a Camaro with PPG paint (4 coats of clear then wet sanded 2 years ago), and have found a few runs. Is there any way to reduce the appearance of the paint runs by buffing etc?


2. Any idea if PPG paint is soft/hard clear coat?

3. The car has been sitting for awhile and as a result has pollen, dust, etc sitting on the paint currently, how would you go about prepping the surface to reduce swirls before washing? Just a power washer, 2 bucket method with a mitt?

4. There are two areas of what seems to be previous light buffer marks in a line (not a hologram); should I just use my PC with M105 orange pad then M205 White, or something else?


Sorry for all of the questions!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

1. Polishing should help but I think it would depend on how big the run is. Polishing would help the light reflect instead of refract.

2. It depends on what clear it is. PPG makes several different clears, from a shop line all the way to a poly urethane which is stupid hard, I just did a car with that kind.

3. Pressure washer, presoak w/ Dawn/APC/good car shampoo(to help with making suds), wash 2 bucket method, dry, Iron X, rinse/wash, clay/nanoskin, dry. Since its been sitting IMO the decon is very important in this situation.

4. There's no way of knowing without seeing a pic and even then it we can't say for sure because we don't know how hard the clear is.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I want to give four thumbs up for the Speedy Surface Prep Dx pad. This thing made my life a lot easier tonight.

Jet49

Thanks Jay!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Referencing your #4 question could you post a pic of the scratch? It's always best to start with the least aggressive combo first. Since the car has been repainted I would probably try a white pad and M205 first. If that doesn't take it out then move to the orange pad and M105. If that doesn't take it out there's a few other options after that. As I'm sure you know if its really deep it will be better to leave alone unless you know how much clear was put on the car.

Firebird Phoenix

iTrader: (6)

Where's the best place to buy the 3M (1/8" is all you need?) in bulk so I can get the best deal?

sam95transam

Followed this thread until about page 79 and then got sent out of town for work for weeks.

I just got a set of Weld RTS black center wheels. What is the proper way to care for these wheels? I've heard that these are not coated wheels but I can't confirm that.

I also have no clue have to clean/protect the black anodizing in the center. Anyone have advice?

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Try cleaning the wheels with the most gentle options first. Honestly, if they're not bad, try washing them down with a boar's hair brush and some regular wash shampoo diluted 1oz/gallon of water. If that doesn't work, step up to an all purpose cleaner, if that doesn't work, I'd hit it with a Sonax/Adam's DWC.

If the wheels are not coated, I'd highly recommend looking into a coating option like Cquartz, Opti Guard, or Gtechniq.

Just my $.02

Screamin_99

iTrader: (5)

Aside from Opti-Coat (nervous about buying it and trying to apply it due to the fact that I've heard its pretty difficult to get right?) What is a good sealant/nano that will give the same water sheeting Hydrophobic properties and one that is not extremely difficult to apply.

I've got some Jetseal 109 that I have not used yet ( I need to find a weekend where I can get the car in some shade and start polishing ) I've heard Jetseal will bead tightly and allow water to sheet if it's applied, let dry/cure then applied again? But longevity is terrible.

Collinite Brand (not sure on any models/numbers) I've heard extremely great things about them, what LSP is good?

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

Wolfgang poly sealant holds up pretty well and is very easy to apply

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Opti Coat is readily available at Detailers Domain, Detailers Club, Autogeek, etc. There is a BIT of a learning curve, but nothing terrible. Worst case would be you'd have to polish some high spots. Not too bad.

Jetseal is only a decent product imho. Shine is nice, but durability is average.

Can't go wrong with Collinite 845. There's a reason it's been around since the stone age!

You could also try....

Wolf's Chemicals Body Wrap/Hard Body - Easily two of my favoirte products in my arsenal.


http://www.wolfschemicals.com/en/ter...----hard-body-

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Was going to ask you about this Jason... Do they sell a "kit with a 6 inch pad & a 3 inch pad? Heard stories about marring, but honestly, it wouldn't bother me because if I were ever going to use one, I'd have every intention of polishing afterwards.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

That I don't know. I had actually ordered a Nanoskin Autoscrub pad from a local paint supply house because I had to have it the next day and didn't want to pay AG 50 bucks to over night it. A friend of mine picked it up and I didn't realize I got the Speedy pad till he gave it to me.

I have read the medium grade can cause marring also. I believe on AG they say that and suggest going with the fine grade if you aren't planning on polishing. I've heard this about the towels, wash mitts and pads.


I didn't notice any marring when I used it on the Charger I did but that paint is pretty hard.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

To expound on this some, sam95transam if you do try some APC I would dilute it and not use it full strength. Some APC's are pretty strong full strength and can stain polished aluminum. Rare is 100% on point when saying try the most gentle option first. The most important thing with wheels and especially nice wheels is maintenance. It's a lot easier to clean your wheels with something gentle frequently than having to use something more aggressive every now and then. Coating them is a great idea because the brake dust isn't going to want to stick to wheels as much and will be much easier to clean.

cdgreg

iTrader: (5)

We have a number of trees that drop the spinning flyer things. If they sit on the car too long they leave an outline of their shape. Standard soap/water car wash doesn't fully remove the outline but when I had some body work done the guy used some type of white wipe that took the outline right off. Any idea what type of wipe this was?