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Old 01-29-2012, 08:17 PM
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^^ post some pics would def help to better guide you!
Old 01-29-2012, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JUSTINSWS6
Junkman how do you clena under the hood? I did it with engine degreaser and mist on the nozzle setting. It looked good for about a day. Do you do it any differently. I always tape my lid shut with painters tape, and cover the fuze box.
How often do I clean under my hood? OFTEN.

I don't have to use anything under my hood in the way of a degreaser because I don't allow my engine to get greasy. Engines are not supposed to leak anything so if mine develops a leak of some sort, I fix the problem ASAP. I don't drive over 300 miles without cleaning my engine. Because of that, I don't need anything but soap and water. The last thing I want my cabin smelling like is some Gunk Engine Degreaser so I am proactive. I am constantly addressing my engine so that I can work on it in a white shirt in the church parking lot. Ask any mechanic. They will appreciate your car a lot more when you bring them a clean engine to work on. If you bring them the Exxon Valdez, they will treat it a such.

Now exactly what to do varies from engine to engine. For example, what I do can't be followed with a Lamborghini, unless you plan to wait a week for the thing to dry out before it starts. Thus, each engine is a separate case. What I do with my LS1 is cover the alternator with a plastic bag, make sure that I don't shoot water directly at the A.I.R. pump, keep water away from the battery terminals and fuse box and do not saturate any of the for pully's. I only use a gentle misting of water because I don't want water to get forced into any area that water shouldn't get. After I'm done washing, I blow the entire engine dry with my Master Blaster so that no water sits and creates any rust spots. Then I either run the engine until it is hot or drive the car. The finishing touch is some In & Out Spray dressing.

If at any time I get the opportunity to work on the engine, I'm going to really detail it then. Taking parts off the engine is a great time to clean spots you normally can't get to. I love those opportunities. Most guys just want to get done with the repair. I go so slow, you could have pulled the engine and replaced it by the time I get done but hey, that baby is clean when I'm done. It takes a certain kind of **** to get that involved. I make no excuses. I can't stand a dirty engine, and mine has 133,000 miles on it.

Here I am fixing a leaky valley cover gasket and EOP sensor.




Now she's clean again.




Originally Posted by evilz99
Just picked up some torq thrust m wheels that are black with a machined lip. The previous owner said his brakes locked up and dusted the wheels so thick and cakes on that it is like a powdery rust. It comes off slow with heavy heavy scrubbing but was just wandering if there was an easier way. Any help is greatly appreciated to bring these black beutys back to life.
You don't need a better cleaner, you need some better brake pads. I use Wagner Thermo Quiet's on my car. Since my car is a high performance sports car, I need for it to stop very quickly sometimes. These brake pads not only stop the car, they do so without leaving one speck of brake dust. Not, slightly dusty, not minimal dust, NO DUST WHATSOEVER. so what does it take to clean my wheels? Nothing but soap and water. If you have to use anything else, then your car is either strictly a road course race car or you need to buy some different brake pads.

Wagner Thermo Quiet's my friend. You will seriously thank me later.

Old 01-29-2012, 09:02 PM
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Thanks. I had to use degreaser because i was doing some work and got grease and motor oil everywhere lol. I need to try to get it alittle better. What can you use besides adams to keep the plastic clean and shiny. Could i use detailing wipes? It is for vinyl and plastic and makes my vinyl door shine.
Old 01-29-2012, 09:17 PM
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Hmmm... most of the stuff on the market now is so darn greasy so I'm probably not the one to ask. I hear good things about a product called 303 but I have never used it. I guess you could use some dielectric grease. It won't dry out the rubber trim. I just use that In & Out or SuperVRT. It goes such a long way that one bottle will last you for a long time. The In & Out Spray is another story. You'll go through that stuff kinda quick.
Old 01-29-2012, 09:29 PM
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What would you guys do with a black daily driver in the pacific northwest, where if you aren't familiar, it rains all day long 6 days out of the week for 10 months out of the year. I would like to polish out all the swirls and what not and then put on the longest lasting wax/sealant known to man.
Old 01-29-2012, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008
You don't need a better cleaner, you need some better brake pads. I use Wagner Thermo Quiet's on my car. Since my car is a high performance sports car, I need for it to stop very quickly sometimes. These brake pads not only stop the car, they do so without leaving one speck of brake dust. Not, slightly dusty, not minimal dust, NO DUST WHATSOEVER. so what does it take to clean my wheels? Nothing but soap and water. If you have to use anything else, then your car is either strictly a road course race car or you need to buy some different brake pads.

Wagner Thermo Quiet's my friend. You will seriously thank me later.

It wasnt me that did it my brake pads are fine I bought them this way. I need to know how to get it off. His brake pads locked up on his drive home and he kept friving and now its is almost like a rusty ceramic texture that is caked on really hard...
Old 01-29-2012, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by J8127
What would you guys do with a black daily driver in the pacific northwest, where if you aren't familiar, it rains all day long 6 days out of the week for 10 months out of the year. I would like to polish out all the swirls and what not and then put on the longest lasting wax/sealant known to man.
I would cry.

After I finished crying, the process of paint correction remains the same. There is nothing different about paint correction from car to car except the abrasiveness of the polish you start with. Deeper damage, heavier cutting polish. But the basic process is the exact same process for everyone. I've linked to that process a few post back.

As for protection, the longest lasting protection is going to be a sealant. Sealants last longer than anything, however, they are more work to apply. So if you want the longest lasting protection, choose a sealant. There are plenty on the market. I use a combination of a sealant and a carnuba paste. Here's what I use and how I use it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgBJG...el_video_title

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUa_j...el_video_title



Originally Posted by evilz99
It wasnt me that did it my brake pads are fine I bought them this way. I need to know how to get it off. His brake pads locked up on his drive home and he kept friving and now its is almost like a rusty ceramic texture that is caked on really hard...
Yea, you need to post some pics. I'm trying to imagine what you're talking about and can't.
Old 01-29-2012, 09:55 PM
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here is a link to the sale ad that I got them from and that has pics at the bottom it almost looks like rust but it is brake dust and does come off with heavey scrubbing but was looking for an easier way. The guy I bought them from had a caliper seize up and thats what caused them to get dusted so bad and its like baked on and very hard to get off
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-c...els-cheap.html
Old 01-29-2012, 10:00 PM
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I have a question about a newly repainted car.. I had someone repaint one of my cars and he didn't finish the job in making it shiny..

The car is black and what can I do to make the paint shiny? Will just waxing it do the trick?

I want to finish this the most efficient and easiest way
Old 01-29-2012, 10:10 PM
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Did they clearcoat the car? Did they wetsand it? Did they buff it? You cant use wax until like 90 days on a new paint job.
Old 01-29-2012, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cam kidd
I have a question about a newly repainted car.. I had someone repaint one of my cars and he didn't finish the job in making it shiny..

The car is black and what can I do to make the paint shiny? Will just waxing it do the trick?

I want to finish this the most efficient and easiest way
First, WAX does not make paint shine.

That's what polishing does. Wax is a protectant. It protects the shine that you get from polishing. Polishing aluminum wheels is what makes them shine. Polishing jewelry is what makes it shine. Polishing glass is what makes it shine. Polishing leather is what makes it shine. Polishing paint is what makes paint shine.

Now answer Justin's questions. At what point did they stop?
Old 01-29-2012, 10:21 PM
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I will have to post pics of the 77 ford truck im painting with a 350 chevy sb. It had rust every where. Took the bed of and tore out all of everything except under the hood. It is a dark red mettalic.
Old 01-29-2012, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by chaman
I think this thread should be a sticky and be organized to make it easier to browse through it.
It was discussed earlier in this thread that people often do not read sticky threads because of their location relative to the rest of the forum. If you want the information from the thread I suggest you just read through it and pay attention. Unless someone is willing to read through AND organize it into a new one, I know I'm not. I read through the whole thing while stuck in a hotel one day, lots of great free info. Now we have not only Gofast, but Junkman as well answering questions. I see this going in a great direction as is.
Old 01-29-2012, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Well I've never detailed in the humidity, so I'm not the best to ask on that. However, what product(s) are you using? Some are just hard to remove no matter what.

Every brand does it. Guess its just the crazy humidity. The worst is Zaino....that stuff is terrible. Its like glue. I'll never use it again.

I use that new Meguires Polish.....excellent durability.

I've just been washing my car after I polish it to get it off. It washes right off with light soap and water. So I don't remove polish anymore with a dry towel after applying it. Much easier to just take 5-8 minutes and wash it real fast....then to use a towel the polish off.

Works great and every bit of polish comes off in that quick wash. Zaino actually told me to do this when I called to complain about their polish not coming off.

.
Old 01-29-2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by J8127
What would you guys do with a black daily driver in the pacific northwest, where if you aren't familiar, it rains all day long 6 days out of the week for 10 months out of the year. I would like to polish out all the swirls and what not and then put on the longest lasting wax/sealant known to man.
From my understanding, waxes last about 30 days and the best sealants last up to 90 days. Sealants being a synthetic material doing what a wax does. Also, if you are using the 2 bucket car wash method properly you should not have to polish your car but every year or two.

Swirls come from improper care period, end of story. They will appear over time regardless of how much care you take, but polishing shouldn't be a twice a year event if you take proper care with the proper materials.
Old 01-29-2012, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cam kidd
I have a question about a newly repainted car.. I had someone repaint one of my cars and he didn't finish the job in making it shiny..

The car is black and what can I do to make the paint shiny? Will just waxing it do the trick?

I want to finish this the most efficient and easiest way
Pics in direct sunlight would let us know better what the problem is. Could be that it wasn't sanded enough, compounded wrong, improperly painted or any number of things. Pics are the only way we could help on this one.
Old 01-29-2012, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Every brand does it. Guess its just the crazy humidity. The worst is Zaino....that stuff is terrible. Its like glue. I'll never use it again.

I use that new Meguires Polish.....excellent durability.

I've just been washing my car after I polish it to get it off. It washes right off with light soap and water. So I don't remove polish anymore with a dry towel after applying it. Much easier to just take 5-8 minutes and wash it real fast....then to use a towel the polish off.

Works great and every bit of polish comes off in that quick wash. Zaino actually told me to do this when I called to complain about their polish not coming off.

.
Remember polish is like compound but more fine. It's like a fine sand paper dissolved in solution. When you wash a car after polishing you're just removing residue. If you "polish" a car then have the ability to wash it away revealing swirls, then it isn't a true polish. That would be a glaze used to hide imperfections of a clear coat. This is why zaino said to wash the car, it's an actual polish.
Old 01-29-2012, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008
How often do I clean under my hood? OFTEN.
How many miles are under that hood!?
Old 01-29-2012, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by That Camaro Guy
How many miles are under that hood!?
133,000. She is no garage queen!
Old 01-30-2012, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by evilz99
here is a link to the sale ad that I got them from and that has pics at the bottom it almost looks like rust but it is brake dust and does come off with heavey scrubbing but was looking for an easier way. The guy I bought them from had a caliper seize up and thats what caused them to get dusted so bad and its like baked on and very hard to get off
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-c...els-cheap.html
can someone please help me with this?


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