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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 10:59 PM
  #1101  
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What happened to Junkman's Corner on Adam's Forums? Bookmarked link says invalid now...
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:21 AM
  #1102  
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Also wheres junkman?
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 09:35 PM
  #1103  
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Well not sure where Junkman is, but I've been swamped! I'm booked out 2 months in advance right now, so to say things are hectic is an understatement. MIGHT sell the Z06 for something..... newer
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Well not sure where Junkman is, but I've been swamped! I'm booked out 2 months in advance right now, so to say things are hectic is an understatement. MIGHT sell the Z06 for something..... newer
message me if you are going to sell it
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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Well you saw the thread on the car, you won't find another one in this condition....I will be asking above book for the car. PM me if you're interested and we can go from there.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:53 PM
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I've been going back over this thread and have a few questions. I'm going to order some pads tomorrow. Are orange, white and black what you use the most? I will be using M105/205 and SIP.

For right now I will be doing just F-bodys.

I "think" the orange w/ the 105, white w/ the 205 and the black for whatever sealant I use. Probably Blackfire.

Originally Posted by GoFast908Z

The main ones I'd get so I have all my bases covered, Meguiars 105 and 205, Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and 106FA (Nano) as well as PO85RD. Those are the 5 I use more than anything else.

Could you list what pads you use with what compounds. I combined my two posts because they both said pretty much the same thing.

Last edited by LilJayV10; Mar 12, 2012 at 02:30 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 12:49 AM
  #1107  
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Originally Posted by BOBS99SS
nothing smells better than strippers lol,if it has that smell i will buy it today lol
Baby powder and shame.

I love it.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 09:10 AM
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Jeff - Recently I had been told that if M105 dries up on me I could give it a spray of distilled water and continue to work it. Is there any truth to that?
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #1109  
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Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
Jeff - Recently I had been told that if M105 dries up on me I could give it a spray of distilled water and continue to work it. Is there any truth to that?
Yes. However 105 has a VERY short working time. I never work it longer than 25 seconds. If you want to work it longer than that, add D300 to the mix. It helps smooth it out and allows you to work longer.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:02 PM
  #1110  
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Originally Posted by Striker
I see that there are two types of LC pads- the flat and the CCS ones. Is there a difference enough to justify the ccs ones with the grooves?

*edit* You'd previously mentioned to me to purchase the 5.5 inch LC pads- my question is: for the PC or my Makita Rotary?
I use the 5.5" pads on the rotary and the DA polisher. I prefer the flat pads over the CCS pads. They run smoother and clean up easier.

Originally Posted by dabest09
I don't think this has been asked and may sound dumb, but do you wear a mask when polishing? I wasn't sure if it was harmful to breathe in the particles or not.
I try to keep my detail studio nice and clean and well ventilated while working a compound or polish that dusts a lot (like M105). When that isn't an option (mobile) I will sometimes wear a particle mask since I work with the stuff FREQUENTLY.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
Approximately how long of a working time should there be when applying M105 on a 2 X 2 area? I've been working in smaller spaces to ensure better coverage - not sure if maybe that is working against me. I'm working in more of a 1 X 1 or 1.5 X 1.5 area with my PC 7424 XP with a LC orange 5.5" flat pad. Seems like the M105 is drying up SUPER quick on me. It's about 66 degrees today - nicest day of the year thus far. I'm definitely getting some decent correction but I'd like to get it a little better. Not sure if I'm applying too much product/not enough or working in too small of an area. The car being worked on is an Arctic White WS6 with light-medium swirls.

Here is my process


Dawn Wash
Hand dry
Clay bar
M105 w/ Orange 5.5" flat pad
M205 w/ white 5.5" flat pad
CarPro Eraser - Polish oil remover


Did about 1/2 of my WS6 hood using 1 orange pad and 1 white pad. Should I be changing pads more often? Haven't cleaned the pads either through 1/2 of the hood, but I thought that'd be acceptable. I'd have two bottles of M105 and M205 so I'd like to use them up before making the eventual switch to Menzerna. I now understand why people love that stuff and it's long working times!!

Starting to think Menzerna SIP and 106/85RD might be just what the doctor needs...
Well 105 will get out more defects than SIP, so I wouldn't ditch that one, but just use it when needed. I typically work a 1.5x1.5' section for 20-25 seconds, maybe 30 if combined with a little Megs D300. I also clean the pads numerous times per panel with a MF towel and spritz of DI water. I also change pads several times around the car.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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I think it is about time to buy some good washing materials. I'm going to get pieces over a few months I think. Goddamn pollen everywhere right now.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Hey man,

Always enjoy your detailing threads. Just picked up an 04 Torch Red Cobra, and Im finally looking to pull the trigger on a PC 7424. Autogeek is running this deal http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html which I was thinking of going with unless you had a better suggestion? What pads and polishes do you recommend for Ford Mustang paint? Sealant?

Thanks man
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:26 PM
  #1114  
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Originally Posted by shepss217
how much should i expect to pay to have my black z28 wetsanded and buffed? i tried buffing it and it looked great till i got it in the sunlight, lol, i just need the very fine buffing swirls removed

Sounds like you need a proper paint correction detail from a real pro, NOT wetsanding. Wetsanding is a last resort and should only be done when all other options are exhausted. For a PROFESSIONAL (ie not your average body shop) wetsand and compound/polish you can expect 2500+.

For a full paint correction, expect anywhere from 500-1500. If you want to see what that money buys you, take a look at some of my threads on black cars to see what you can expect from a quality job.

Originally Posted by dabest09
I saw your thread on how to polish clear coated wheels but my 5.5 inch pads seem a little to big to polish my speedlines. Should I just use m105/205 on a microfiber and try to polish by hand? Or do the face of the wheel with the pc then do the small areas by hand? I would rather not strip the clear coat.
I use 4" pads on my rotary, and also shave them down to 3". It works MUCH better than the 5.5" pads on such a small surface area.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:35 PM
  #1115  
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Originally Posted by Striker
I was informed that 4500 is 85rd- new marketing perhaps?
They are renaming the lineup....again. But yes you got the right stuff.

Originally Posted by 2QuikTA
Who uses a foam gun? If you're going to do a normal 2 bucket wash, is the foam gun pointless?
Originally Posted by mac62989
Good question, Id like to know as well..

Foam is always a good idea as it softens up the dirt and helps carry some off with a rinse before you even touch the paint with the wash mitt. Yes its an additional step but it lowers the risk of wash-induced marring.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Foam is always a good idea as it softens up the dirt and helps carry some off with a rinse before you even touch the paint with the wash mitt. Yes its an additional step but it lowers the risk of wash-induced marring.
So you would foam, rinse, then continue with the regular wash?
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:55 PM
  #1117  
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after i wash my car and go to apply wax it seems to be almost impossible to rub the wax off my hood with out it leaving streaks. The rest of the car does not do this only the hood
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #1118  
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
I've been going back over this thread and have a few questions. I'm going to order some pads tomorrow. Are orange, white and black what you use the most? I will be using M105/205 and SIP.

For right now I will be doing just F-bodys.

I "think" the orange w/ the 105, white w/ the 205 and the black for whatever sealant I use. Probably Blackfire.

Could you list what pads you use with what compounds. I combined my two posts because they both said pretty much the same thing.
Yes. I also use the Megs MF cutting pads and Surbuf pads too.

You've got a good combo there, but don't forget the white pad, experiment with it till you get the perfect finish.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 03:30 PM
  #1119  
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Originally Posted by Guitar
I think it is about time to buy some good washing materials. I'm going to get pieces over a few months I think. Goddamn pollen everywhere right now.
Yeah you want good washing media. Pollen is NASTY stuff when it comes to paint....think of it like sandpaper. Never wipe the car down with pollen on it. Always wash it.

Originally Posted by MTBSully
Hey man,

Always enjoy your detailing threads. Just picked up an 04 Torch Red Cobra, and Im finally looking to pull the trigger on a PC 7424. Autogeek is running this deal http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html which I was thinking of going with unless you had a better suggestion? What pads and polishes do you recommend for Ford Mustang paint? Sealant?

Thanks man
I'd go with the Meguiars 105/205 kit with 5.5" LC pads....skip the 6.5" ones.

Don't forget quality microfiber towels (no costco stuff). No sense in removing swirls to only put them back in with bad towels. Detailing.com has the best. Cobra from Autogeek is good too.

Again as said before Blackfire Wet Diamond is a VERY good sealant.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Yes. However 105 has a VERY short working time. I never work it longer than 25 seconds. If you want to work it longer than that, add D300 to the mix. It helps smooth it out and allows you to work longer.
Well, the issue was that I wasn't quite getting the correction I was hoping for. I was working it at about an inch per second in a cross hatch pattern. Tried both pad priming methods (the Kevin Brown method and the Chemical Guys pad primer spray w/ 4 dime sized blots of M105). Using the KB pad priming method I got a little better results, but I wasn't sure if that was because I was technically using more compound via the priming technique. Unfortunately, I don't have any D300 to add to the mix. I do however have a small amount of Megs Ultimate Compound. Is there any chance I could add some of that to the M105 on the LC orange flat pad? Then if that dries up, add some distilled water?

Let's just say that I now understand the value of products with long working times! AG has a buy one get one special on the Car Pro Fixer Polishing Compound that I've been debating grabbing. Any experience with that?
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