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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:58 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
83/80 aren't very good, I'd give 105 a try. What pad are you using?
a W8207..probably not enough as well? Should I try a 7207?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:05 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by SIK02SS
a W8207..probably not enough as well? Should I try a 7207?
Yes, but you will need to finish back down afterwards to restore the gloss and clarity and you can use the 8207 (yellow pad) to do that with a lighter polish, like Meguiars M205.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Yes, but you will need to finish back down afterwards to restore the gloss and clarity and you can use the 8207 (yellow pad) to do that with a lighter polish, like Meguiars M205.
thank you..just to clarify: so after cleaning..go to M105 on a 7207 pad, once the lines are removed step down to the 8207 (yellow pads which i already use) and M205 to finish the polish...then seal with wax?

Do you use a microfiber pad with wax or a 9207?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by SIK02SS
thank you..just to clarify: so after cleaning..go to M105 on a 7207 pad, once the lines are removed step down to the 8207 (yellow pads which i already use) and M205 to finish the polish...then seal with wax?

Do you use a microfiber pad with wax or a 9207?
I've found the 9207 (beige pad) to be not so great. If I'm applying with a buffer, I'll use a Lake Country Blue or Red pad to do it. Lake Country pads are FAR superior to the Meguiars pads.

Be sure to do an Isprophyl Alcohol (IPA) wipedown before waxing.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #105  
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Thanks for the help/info...now I have a new project
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:29 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by SIK02SS
Thanks for the help/info...now I have a new project
Take some before/after pics and post them! I'm sure people would love to see the results!
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #107  
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GoFast-


1st off, great thread and thank you for taking time to answer all of our questions. I'm a novice when it comes to detailing but since I bought my WS6 I've been collecting a healthy amount of what I consider quality detailing products. My questions mainly revolve around swirling and how to truly remove the swirls (if even possible). My usual wash/detail schedule looks something like this

1-Meguiars gold class wash
2-Meguiars white clay bar applied with quick detail sprayer + clean microfiber
(Only have clayed the car once)
3-Meguiars Ultimate compound applied with buffer in small sections and wiped with clean micofiber (Also only used once)
4-Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0 - Usually only 1 coat applied with cheap advance auto 6" buffer and removed by hand with clean micofiber cloth.


Obviously, I really like Meguiars products lol. Anyways, after I really detailed my car with the above method I noticed I had ALOT of swirls, mainly on the hood of the car. I've heard about SwirlX and ScratchX, both of which I already have but haven't yet used. With the products I've listed above, what order should I use them in to remove or hide the swirls as best I can?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
GoFast-


1st off, great thread and thank you for taking time to answer all of our questions. I'm a novice when it comes to detailing but since I bought my WS6 I've been collecting a healthy amount of what I consider quality detailing products. My questions mainly revolve around swirling and how to truly remove the swirls (if even possible). My usual wash/detail schedule looks something like this

1-Meguiars gold class wash
2-Meguiars white clay bar applied with quick detail sprayer + clean microfiber
(Only have clayed the car once)
3-Meguiars Ultimate compound applied with buffer in small sections and wiped with clean micofiber (Also only used once)
4-Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0 - Usually only 1 coat applied with cheap advance auto 6" buffer and removed by hand with clean micofiber cloth.


Obviously, I really like Meguiars products lol. Anyways, after I really detailed my car with the above method I noticed I had ALOT of swirls, mainly on the hood of the car. I've heard about SwirlX and ScratchX, both of which I already have but haven't yet used. With the products I've listed above, what order should I use them in to remove or hide the swirls as best I can?
You're welcome. I'm glad I can be a help to you guys. Hopefully when my vacation is over tomorrow I'll still have time to answer, just may not be as quick

Scratch-X is an ok product, but its not the product that will let you down, its the buffer. Anything short of a Porter Cable 7424XP or the Griots Garage version, won't get you anywhere. If you want to take swirls out, thats where you need to start.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #109  
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Wow who would've known detailing was so in depth. I was with Lemons12 with all the acronyms, I just knew when he said IPA I got thirsty .
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
GoFast-


1st off, great thread and thank you for taking time to answer all of our questions. I'm a novice when it comes to detailing but since I bought my WS6 I've been collecting a healthy amount of what I consider quality detailing products. My questions mainly revolve around swirling and how to truly remove the swirls (if even possible). My usual wash/detail schedule looks something like this

1-Meguiars gold class wash
2-Meguiars white clay bar applied with quick detail sprayer + clean microfiber
(Only have clayed the car once)
3-Meguiars Ultimate compound applied with buffer in small sections and wiped with clean micofiber (Also only used once)
4-Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0 - Usually only 1 coat applied with cheap advance auto 6" buffer and removed by hand with clean micofiber cloth.


Obviously, I really like Meguiars products lol. Anyways, after I really detailed my car with the above method I noticed I had ALOT of swirls, mainly on the hood of the car. I've heard about SwirlX and ScratchX, both of which I already have but haven't yet used. With the products I've listed above, what order should I use them in to remove or hide the swirls as best I can?
If you need a hand let me know. I am a detailer as well and looks like I am right down the street from you pretty much.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 07:41 PM
  #111  
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What do you mean by the Z16 has multiple levels of gloss? More applications = more gloss? I've been trying to find a tire shine that I like all summer with no success
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 08:33 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by k0261886
What do you mean by the Z16 has multiple levels of gloss? More applications = more gloss? I've been trying to find a tire shine that I like all summer with no success
Exactly! With one light application (and its very liquidy *is that a word?* too so its easy to apply lightly) it leaves like a light satin shine. You can even dry wipe it after to knock the shine down a little more if you like. A 2nd application will give a nice medium shine, and a 3rd will give a high shine.

It also doesn't build up and get gunky and crusty and it doesn't fling. A little goes a LONG way with this product.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #113  
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I may have missed this but what detail spray do you prefer?

Also, do you dry using the detail spray like the Adam's videos say?

The Adam's shampoo claims to not leave water marks and to only rinse the car once.
Is this claim completely true?

How does the Gold shampoo compare?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 10:11 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by My6speedZ
I may have missed this but what detail spray do you prefer?

Also, do you dry using the detail spray like the Adam's videos say?

The Adam's shampoo claims to not leave water marks and to only rinse the car once.
Is this claim completely true?

How does the Gold shampoo compare?
I like whichever detail spray matches the wax or sealant that is on the car.

For a customer car, doesn't make sense to dry with detail spray as the properties that give it shine will interfere with the correction process to follow. But for my own personal cars I've tried it, but haven't really seen a big help from it.

Water spots are caused by the water and the minerals in it. A shampoo will not prevent that from happening if you're washing in the heat or sun or take too long drying it. If you want to ensure no chance of waterspots, you need a CR water system.

I'd rate both shampoos about equal. They are both decent.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 12:50 AM
  #115  
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Whats a good polish and method to wet sand a new paint job? And what other first steps should be taken to ensure a new paint job lasts a long time?

edit: and thanks for taking the time to make this thread! I've always done the standard wash, dry, and wax with cheap products and never understood why my car doesn't look like the magazine cars!

Last edited by mikedamageinc; Aug 30, 2011 at 01:01 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 01:53 AM
  #116  
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what do you use for faded exterior trim? for instance the cowl/wipers?
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 02:10 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by mikedamageinc
Whats a good polish and method to wet sand a new paint job? And what other first steps should be taken to ensure a new paint job lasts a long time?

edit: and thanks for taking the time to make this thread! I've always done the standard wash, dry, and wax with cheap products and never understood why my car doesn't look like the magazine cars!
You're welcome.

For the wetsand and polish question, its already been asked and here is my response:
That is a massive topic. For that I could write several pages! My suggestion would be to do a search on Autopia and you'll find a wealth of info there on that subject. I'd write it up, but its just too broad of a topic.

If you want your new paint job to last, keep up on the maintenance. If your wax lasts 3 months, don't wax twice a year. That equates to 6months every year you clear coat is unprotected from the UV rays that break it down. So, in 5 or 10 years the paint will fail. Overlap your detail jobs. If your wax lasts 3 months, do it again in 2 1/2 months. That way the paint is never left open to the elements.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 02:12 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by bobbyd
what do you use for faded exterior trim? for instance the cowl/wipers?
If its lightly faded, you can use some Zaino Z18, or 303 Aerospace Protectant, or Black WOW. These have UV protectant and should be used on a regular basis.

If its severely faded (also called sun bleached), dressing it will only be a band-aid on a much bigger problem. More likely the plastic will have to be re-dyed or replaced.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 07:57 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
If its lightly faded, you can use some Zaino Z18, or 303 Aerospace Protectant, or Black WOW. These have UV protectant and should be used on a regular basis.

If its severely faded (also called sun bleached), dressing it will only be a band-aid on a much bigger problem. More likely the plastic will have to be re-dyed or replaced.
Have you ever used Back to Black by Bondo? If so what were your impressions??
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 10:29 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by ThirdgenTa
If you need a hand let me know. I am a detailer as well and looks like I am right down the street from you pretty much.
Hey thanks bud I'll keep that in mind! I've been trying really hard to keep the car looking and running very nice while keeping costs down. Detailing is awesome, I really enjoy doing it especially when you have some good music and a few cold ones keeping me company!

GoFast- I went ahead and ordered the PorterCable. I'm done playing games, those swirls are going down.
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