Ask a Professional Detailer
GoFast, not only have you inspired me to tackle my TR Z06 with a full correction, but you have encouraged me to start detailing cars on the side .
I used Detail cars for a living approx 18 yrs ago, I have started catching up with the current process and products.
Thank you!
I used Detail cars for a living approx 18 yrs ago, I have started catching up with the current process and products.
Thank you!
Last edited by redsscamaroboy; Mar 3, 2012 at 08:12 AM.
GoFast, not only have you inspired me to tackle my TR Z06 with a full correction, but I you have encouraged me to start detailing cars on the side .
I used Detail cars for a living approx 18 yrs ago, I have started catching up with the current process and products.
Thank you!
I used Detail cars for a living approx 18 yrs ago, I have started catching up with the current process and products.
Thank you!
The PC tends to bog down over areas like that if your technique is flawed. What I would do if I was using a PC is use a 4" pad and accompanying back plate. That makes areas like that very easy to do with the PC. This problem is not present with the Flex or Rotary machine, just the PC. At the same time, that's what makes the PC so safe and the Flex a little more dangerous. A rotary would be a LOT more dangerous.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, KY
First, and I don't mean to sound like an *** here but if you have to ask whether or not wet sanding is needed, that is something that you should definitely not be thinking about doing. One problem that would be evident with wet sanding is that the clear UNDER the moldings is going to be a lot thinner than the clear that was painted aftermarket. Thus, if you start wet sanding where the molding was, you could quickly end up striking through the clear and right into the paint. That equals new paint job.
Now as for my professional opinion, let a professional fix it. The only possible outcome that you could hope for is just making it look less noticeable. If you want it to look correct, allow professional intervention.
Now as for my professional opinion, let a professional fix it. The only possible outcome that you could hope for is just making it look less noticeable. If you want it to look correct, allow professional intervention.
Actually I don't think this one has been asked in ALL the pages I have spent time ANSWERING every question asked of me........................
I am willing to bet that is not dirt or residue but a ridge of clear coat. It needs to be professionally sanded down and buffed out, but likely would need repainting for the same reasons Junkman pointed out.
I am willing to bet that is not dirt or residue but a ridge of clear coat. It needs to be professionally sanded down and buffed out, but likely would need repainting for the same reasons Junkman pointed out.
Thank you both for your opinions.
I don't mind trying to wet sand it myself (everyone starts somewhere, correct?) as I figure I couldn't screw it up any worse -- that's why body shops exist, anyway (since it's going to end up there, after all). I'll work on it a bit more with the clay to make it less noticeable and take it in for paint in the fall.
I also thought I'd mention that after working on all the other panels on the car with my Meguiar's stuff (compound, polish, wax), it's still not as perfect as I'd like. However, I'm tired of looking at it rather than pounding the guts out of it. I suppose I'll be plunking down the money for a professional to clean it up
Thank you both for your opinions.
I don't mind trying to wet sand it myself (everyone starts somewhere, correct?) as I figure I couldn't screw it up any worse -- that's why body shops exist, anyway (since it's going to end up there, after all). I'll work on it a bit more with the clay to make it less noticeable and take it in for paint in the fall.
I also thought I'd mention that after working on all the other panels on the car with my Meguiar's stuff (compound, polish, wax), it's still not as perfect as I'd like. However, I'm tired of looking at it rather than pounding the guts out of it. I suppose I'll be plunking down the money for a professional to clean it up
I don't mind trying to wet sand it myself (everyone starts somewhere, correct?) as I figure I couldn't screw it up any worse -- that's why body shops exist, anyway (since it's going to end up there, after all). I'll work on it a bit more with the clay to make it less noticeable and take it in for paint in the fall.
I also thought I'd mention that after working on all the other panels on the car with my Meguiar's stuff (compound, polish, wax), it's still not as perfect as I'd like. However, I'm tired of looking at it rather than pounding the guts out of it. I suppose I'll be plunking down the money for a professional to clean it up
Quick question, I was just about to place a fairly big order and the last item, most important for me was backordered... http://www.autogeek.net/pinmicmit.html
Any quality alternatives on autogeek that I can replace this with? Thanks in advance..
Any quality alternatives on autogeek that I can replace this with? Thanks in advance..
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Verdad Gallardo Quick question, I was just about to place a fairly big order and the last item, most important for me was backordered... http://www.autogeek.net/pinmicmit.html
Any quality alternatives on autogeek that I can replace this with? Thanks in advance..
Any quality alternatives on autogeek that I can replace this with? Thanks in advance..
I did, but I killed the bug....in favor of cash in the bank for a C6Z down the road....
You're welcome
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
I detailed a white car that had a yellowish tint to it. After i did paint correction it went away. I think it must just be on the very top part of the clear. If you would just use m205 by hand or orbital it will come out.
i would guess this is where the ironx would come in handy.. removing the iron deposits from the surface and pores.
Dawn Wash w/ Foam Gun (I'll let it dwell a few minutes)
After it drys - Iron X application
Time to clay the car
Iron X it again
Take her out in the sun and evaluate my pad/product combo
Test spot! Likely M105 and LC orange flat pad
Then M205 with LC white flat pad
Then evaluate the surface, see if I'm happy with it.
If I am happy with it, time for some Menzerna PO85RD
After that my sealant is undecided as of right now
Hoping to achieve 90+% correction and high gloss.IIRC, all the materials I'll use have been suggested by GoFast
I see that there are two types of LC pads- the flat and the CCS ones. Is there a difference enough to justify the ccs ones with the grooves?
*edit* You'd previously mentioned to me to purchase the 5.5 inch LC pads- my question is: for the PC or my Makita Rotary?
*edit* You'd previously mentioned to me to purchase the 5.5 inch LC pads- my question is: for the PC or my Makita Rotary?
Last edited by Striker; Mar 6, 2012 at 01:52 PM.